DIY Bed Rack

[Wat Dog]

I have always hated the universal fit bed racks on the Gladiators, the angles never compliment the near vertical cab and they cost entirely too much to justify not building one exactly as I want. I used 40x40 T track extrusion to make the frame and misc. accessories to assemble it. It was $400 all in. If you look around at what is offered from other manufacturers, there are already a ton of accessories you can utilize pre made from them that will work just fine

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[WILDHOBO]

I have always hated the universal fit bed racks on the Gladiators, the angles never compliment the near vertical cab and they cost entirely too much to justify not building one exactly as I want. I used 40x40 T track extrusion to make the frame and misc. accessories to assemble it. It was $400 all in. If you look around at what is offered from other manufacturers, there are already a ton of accessories you can utilize pre made from them that will work just fine

I think it looks fantastic. I’ve been wanting to do something with extrusion as well. Mind sharing where you got your materials, and if you’re happy with the supplier?

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

I also think it looks great. You ought to put it together as a kit to sell!

 

[Wat Dog]

P

I think it looks fantastic. I’ve been wanting to do something with extrusion as well. Mind sharing where you got your materials, and if you’re happy with the supplier?

i got everything from Amazon. I’ll post a parts list and some measurements. A miter saw will be needed, unless you by everything pre cut which adds to the cost.

 

[Wat Dog]

Are those pivot joints locked in somehow? It looks like it could tip over one way or the other.

They’re friction fit and hold the joint great with loc-tight. I haven’t had any issues but I have been considering drilling a hole for a locking pin just for the warm and fuzzys

 

[John in the Woods]

Agree on then great work. Love the way you matched the lines of the cab.

Also agree on those joints. I think four corner plates bolted to the both sides of the four outer corners will give you the resistance to rotational collapse that you need.

Some version of these would do. Judging by your work, it would be a piece of cake for you.

https://share.google/images/gwE8jAvsUj9z9gefE

 

[Wat Dog]

I cut the lengths down to 51” for the side to side cross members and 6” for the risers with 27 3/4” for the front to back cross members which made a 48” long rack.Admittedly, I made a few mistakes and broke a tap or two, but you could easily get a fourth crossmember, or longer front to rear cross members, out of the materials at hand.

https://a.co/d/8yK4Bdo
https://a.co/d/8tgRIkJ
https://a.co/d/eXALwX2
https://a.co/d/aFWMHSJ
https://a.co/d/c4051Pb
https://a.co/d/c03zomw
https://a.co/d/94k0NnX

 

[JTdiRtyD]

I don't want to rain on your parade, I really like this idea and have been trying to find a good way to do similar, but I want to point out that those hinge joints are not meant to support much weight. They are cast aluminum, I've seen them crack and break easily in sim racing chassis builds from people leaning against whatever arm is attached to them. Heck, I've seen them crack just from over-tightening the joint. I wouldn't trust them alone for the weight of an RTT while on the highway or rough trails, or from the added weight of people inside the RTT moving around. I would highly advise reinforcing the corners with plates.

 

[smokymtn65]

Brand new here, mine is only a week old to me. Had this idea on my head hope to retain the hard 3 part tonneau cover. Was planning to burn out some corner plates and powder coat them. I plan to go full hight due to bigger 23Zero.
We have to make some bed rails to extend the uprights some.

 

[WILDHOBO]

P

i got everything from Amazon. I’ll post a parts list and some measurements. A miter saw will be needed, unless you by everything pre cut which adds to the cost.

I have a metal cutting band saw that does angles, and a 12” miter saw that I could technically throw a metal blade in. Thanks for posting materials whenever.

 

[Wat Dog]

Agree on then great work. Love the way you matched the lines of the cab.

Also agree on those joints. I think four corner plates bolted to the both sides of the four outer corners will give you the resistance to rotational collapse that you need.

Some version of these would do. Judging by your work, it would be a piece of cake for you.

https://share.google/images/gwE8jAvsUj9z9gefE

I have added this to the top, they’re not pictures because they arrived after I assembled the whole thing using inside corner brackets. You can see what I used in the material list I posted

I don't want to rain on your parade, I really like this idea and have been trying to find a good way to do similar, but I want to point out that those hinge joints are not meant to support much weight. They are cast aluminum, I've seen them crack and break easily in sim racing chassis builds from people leaning against whatever arm is attached to them. Heck, I've seen them crack just from over-tightening the joint. I wouldn't trust them alone for the weight of an RTT while on the highway or rough trails, or from the added weight of people inside the RTT moving around. I would highly advise reinforcing the corners with plates.

They aren’t cast aluminum, they’re a zinc alloy, much more heavy duty. However, I don’t do any crazy off roading but I have already added the corner & T plates. Gussets are easily added, should I get wild hair and do something more adventurous.

 

[Cwg33]

The way you lined it up with the cab is fantastic. Were you able to keep that line after adding the corner plates? Plates look like they would require a 90 degree if fully bolted.

 

[Volt0]

Very nice

 

[tysongladiator]

I don't want to rain on your parade, I really like this idea and have been trying to find a good way to do similar, but I want to point out that those hinge joints are not meant to support much weight. They are cast aluminum, I've seen them crack and break easily in sim racing chassis builds from people leaning against whatever arm is attached to them. Heck, I've seen them crack just from over-tightening the joint. I wouldn't trust them alone for the weight of an RTT while on the highway or rough trails, or from the added weight of people inside the RTT moving around. I would highly advise reinforcing the corners with plates.

I have to agree. I've built three racks for my Jeep since ownership. 2 Full heights and the last one was a mid height. The first one was an aluminum rack and I had a Rooftop tent at the time. I went on a wheeling trip to Bearwallow. And in the mirror, I noticed movement in the rack. I got out to check and sure enough the aluminum had broken on the driver's side top corner. I had to rig it to make it home to make sure that the tent didn't end up in somebody's windshield.

I'm not saying his will have issues, but that's my experience with aluminum. The next one I built was from steel. No issues at all with that one.

 

[Wat Dog]

The way you lined it up with the cab is fantastic. Were you able to keep that line after adding the corner plates? Plates look like they would require a 90 degree if fully bolted.

I put the brackets on the top parallel to the truck bed. After a trip to PA with an iLander RTT it worked perfectly, without a single issue, and a great weekend was had.

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