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Disclaimer: This post isn't really relevant to our trucks at all, but it does fill in some backstory as to how I ended up in the frame of mind to replace the oil filter housing/oil cooler. Some of you guys might find it entertaining. Back in early December my wife, son and I went out for dinner...

I drained a little less than a gallon and it was almost enough. I think draining a gallon or maybe a gallon and quart would be sufficient. Yeah, I should have popped one of those little plugs out and taken a look at the RMS. I can still do that. Buuuuuut, if it is the RMS, I won't be fixing it...

Most of the research I did indicated the RMS was the least likely culprit. The oil cooler has been a hot topic since the 3.6 started going in the JKs. I could see a sheen of oil around the filter housing before taking anything apart. Since I was approaching 100k miles I needed to replace spark...

I've previously done a drain and fill on the auto trans in my Gladiator. It's a little intimidating as the stakes are seemingly high, but it's really straight forward. I would think if you have even some basic mechanical aptitude you can handle this pretty easily.

That's an awesome write-up!

So, this sparks a little more discusion. When I removed my oil cooler, the valley didn't seem to have nearly enough oil in it to leak down the back of the block. Unless I missed something, all the gussets would hold the oil in the spaces between them and they would all have to fill up and spill...

Did you replace the cooler with a OEM cooler or something else? I'm curious as to how the replacement failed.

$1,670 and that was only 40%? Damn. I am way out of warranty but I echo the sentiment shared by a few others on here. I don't trust dealers. I've had too many questionable experiences to waste my time with them for much at this point.

Yeah that's what I did, too. I removed the fender and came at the lower bolt from the side, though. Still needed a long extension and a T40 on a u-joint.

I'm genuinely impressed and still curious as to how you got on the upper intake support bracket bolt from above. I couldn't even see it from above standing on a small ladder or sitting on the front of the engine bay. That area is so congested with vacuum lines, coolant lines, wires, engine...

Sooooo... I tackled this on Saturday. My truck has 96,600 miles on it so I also took advantage of the situation to take care of a few other things. I replaced my lower oil pan, which was corroding badly, spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, and PCV valve. It took a lot longer than I anticipated...

Damn, that looks good! Well done!

So, the weather finally looks good enough for me to tackle this project this weekend? Any last words of wisdom? @Stan H @Maximus Gladius I've done a good bit of research, watched some videos, etc. Have all my parts, tools, torque specs, etc...

I know it's only been a day but, how do yo ulike the Mickeys so far? I have 35x12.5 Baja Boss A/Ts right now but will be putting 37s on next month when it gets re-geared. I'm undecided on whether or not to go with the M/Ts, stick with the A/Ts or maybe go a completely different direction like...

I'll answer this with what I've learned in the past day. Globex Performance in Lakewood, NJ seems to be the place to go if you're in NJ. I'll update this when the work is done next month.

100% That's what I did. There were too many red flags with what they were telling me. I reached out to a couple different shops who had a completely different opinion on the strength of the newer M220 Dana 44s in the JTs. The general consensus is the new ones are stronger than the older Dana...

The title says it all. I'm looking for a quality shop to regear my Jeep in New Jersey or eastern PA.

I actually joked with the guy about that. Definitely not an option. That was my understanding, also. This guy said they never had any issues until the new JL/JT Dana 44s. He refered to them as "metric" and said that Jeep tried to save weight and shaved a lot of material from the housing. His...

So I called a local 4WD shop to inquire about regearing my Gladiator and they cautioned me saying these new Dana 44s are not as strong as the pre-2018 Dana 44s. Apparently they have had a few JL/JTs come back in post gear swap with premature gear wear and axle tubes flexing/walking in the...

Interesting. That makes sense as there is no way to adjust the control arms on a stock Gladiator witout additional brackets. I've never heard of them doing that before...