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Looks like there is a finned aluminum version of that plastic pan by Autotecnica, which also uses a different filter. Interesting, but I'm sticking with my original pan, and buying Mopar fluid & filter. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12716777&cc=0&pt=8546&jsn=3

Keep us posted if you do this. I'd be interested in a set of brackets if they aren't too expensive.

Get some tygon tube, then make a hole in the cap that is slightly smaller than the tube. Warm up the tube a little bit and feed it through the hole in the cap. I've done this a bunch of times and it works great. Just watch out when you are doing the 'warm' fill with the engine running. The...

I bought 7Q and ended up using about 5.5Q. Instead of having the ~1.5Q extra fluid sit on my shelf for 4-5 years, I drove about 20 miles, let it cool, pulled the fill plug (which drains about 1.5Q) and then re-filled to proper level using proper procedure. When all was said & done, I ended up...

I found that almost all of the fluid can be extracted though the fill hole using a relative small diameter flexible tube ( I used some oxygen tubing that I had). I did this before dropping my pan, and I found maybe .25Q left in the pan. So, for my next fluid change I'll probably just do a...

The issue is that the battery/batteries are more fully charged than the IBS thinks they are. My recommendation would be to: 1) disconnect the negative terminals & separate them so that each battery is completely isolated. 2) unplug the IBS for about 30 minutes to re-set it. 3) use the noco...

Yes, you are hooking up the charger wrong. On the negative side you need to attach the charger to the post at the top of the IBS and not directly to the negative terminal. The IBS monitors what is happening to the battery as far as charging/discharging goes. If you connect the charger...

Having just done a transmission fluid & filter service, I can verify that the transmission does indeed warm up while idling. It doesn't warm up quickly, that's for sure, but the fluid temperature does increase at idle.

Some of the power plant equipment I work on is from the 1940s. The old O&M Manuals actually state for cold starts to make a pile of oily rags under the gearbox and light them on fire for warmup.

^^ Me too, and I got the exact same message on the dash as the OP. Check the hood switch that is in the stop/start system. One is for hood ajar and one is for stop/start. They are the same part number switch. Switch resistance should be 500 ohms with hood open and 1000 ohms with hood closed...

You have no idea who I am or what I have been doing for a living for over 30 years. Unlike the great Papa, I see no need to regularly pontificate about how great I am or about how I know more than someone else, or pretend to know things that I don't know. I can tell you that your supposition...

See, you're doing it again. You make statements of fact that aren't really facts, and you just can't accept that what you said isn't correct. But you couldn't find them. Nope, not standard. Wrong again. Now you're too worried about messing up a bolt by removing it? But, maybe that's "what...

I always find it funny when you make statements like you know what you're talking about, only to find out that you don't, then you just won't give up on it. Oh, and throw in a story about something completely different just to try to prove to people that you're still smarter than them. :facepalm:

So where do you find this 'standard button head bolt' that meets all the specs? Also, what about the washer? Thickness of the washer is critical because it sets the distance between the bottom surface of the washer and the bottom surface of the shoulder. When you tighten the bolt, it tightens...

Please share.

^^ Yup, the Factory Service Manual only addresses removing the position switch once the transfer case is removed. It looks like you could get creative with an open end or box end wrench (i.e. bending it or cutting it as needed to make a removal tool).

Haha! If you have the correct tools, you won't mess up anything any more than it already has been from initial installation. Either way, they aren't standard off-the-shelf shouldered bolts available from the typical sources. I know you find it hard to believe that, but it's true. When my...

It's a shouldered bolt. Go pull one out and measure it.

The ones that go in from the top certainly are.

This is a textbook bending fatigue failure. You can clearly see the crack initiation point and the 'beach marks' as the crack propagated over time up until the point of ultimate failure. Neat stuff.