What do you recommend for aftermarket mud flaps?

[firemedic2714]

These are my Rok Blokz. Easy on easy off. You should check the thumb screws every now and then.

I've had my RokBlokz since August 2019. I live in St. Louis (a notch in the rust belt, LOL) and it's a daily driver. I used to routinely remove them and recoat the hardware with anti-seize compound between wheeling trips, but that stopped working. I replaced all the hardware with stainless hex screws this summer when I had to have the rear brackets sandblasted and recoated due to extensive rust. I should have done that a couple of years before. For St. Louis, I consider this maintenance for non-OEM equipment as I've had my Smittybilt front bumper and N-Fab rock rails and removable steps Line-Xed, too. Here's what they looked like:

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[rubicon4wheeler]

The ones I have are extra long which helps protect my trailer. I'll let you know as soon as I rip one off in the snow. We haven't had a bad winter since I picked up the truck. Love the bright green on your truck.

Same here, I installed the longest and widest RockBlokz because my 37's throw quite a rooster tail of water, snow, rocks, etc. all over my travel trailer (and other cars following behind me) without them. I pull them off when I'm rockcrawling, but I've never needed to remove them on snow runs because they mount so securely and they're slippery when wet so when they're pushed against a tire there's no traction to try to rip them off.

 

[Sweetums]

I've had my RokBlokz since August 2019. I live in St. Louis (a notch in the rust belt, LOL) and it's a daily driver. I used to routinely remove them and recoat the hardware with anti-seize compound between wheeling trips, but that stopped working. I replaced all the hardware with stainless hex screws this summer when I had to have the rear brackets sandblasted and recoated due to extensive rust. I should have done that a couple of years before. For St. Louis, I consider this maintenance for non-OEM equipment as I've had my Smittybilt front bumper and N-Fab rock rails and removable steps Line-Xed, too. Here's what they looked like:

Could I humbly suggest a yearly lanolin spray for your undercarriage? Something like Fluid Film or PB Surface Shield works or just get the old fashioned agricultural lanolin, load it into a spray gun and give a liberal coating to everything under your vehicle from inner bumper to tow hitch and mud flaps to the underside of the body.

Lanolin is a wax that will fill all those spaces where salt collects and rust gets started, it helps the salty slush slide off and generally keeps things sealed up and the salt out. It might be too late for the parts already starting to rust, but it might help keep new spots from starting.

 

[RedRaptorJT]

Looking at these. Anyone have experience with them?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've had my RokBlokz since August 2019. I live in St. Louis (a notch in the rust belt, LOL) and it's a daily driver. I used to routinely remove them and recoat the hardware with anti-seize compound between wheeling trips, but that stopped working. I replaced all the hardware with stainless hex screws this summer when I had to have the rear brackets sandblasted and recoated due to extensive rust. I should have done that a couple of years before. For St. Louis, I consider this maintenance for non-OEM equipment as I've had my Smittybilt front bumper and N-Fab rock rails and removable steps Line-Xed, too. Here's what they looked like:

That sort of flaky rust, to that extent - would drive me NUTS.
I'd powder coat all steel parts, and use stainless fasteners with that system.
I've noted rust starting on the fasteners on my wife's JLU mud flaps, but her new one is to be here in a week or two, so won't worry about it.

 

[firemedic2714]

That sort of flaky rust, to that extent - would drive me NUTS.
I'd powder coat all steel parts, and use stainless fasteners with that system.
I've noted rust starting on the fasteners on my wife's JLU mud flaps, but her new one is to be here in a week or two, so won't worry about it.

Despite all that rust, the bolts that hold the brackets came off surprisingly easy. I had them blasted and painted as well. The original Rokblokz hardware is stainless. I replaced theirs with stainless hex head bolts because I couldn't get any of it off by hand because of all the road grime that filled the threads. I carry a drill driver and hand tools when wheeling JIC I need them so the switch to conventional hardware was an easy decision.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

I've had my RokBlokz since August 2019. I live in St. Louis (a notch in the rust belt, LOL) and it's a daily driver. I used to routinely remove them and recoat the hardware with anti-seize compound between wheeling trips, but that stopped working. I replaced all the hardware with stainless hex screws this summer when I had to have the rear brackets sandblasted and recoated due to extensive rust. I should have done that a couple of years before. For St. Louis, I consider this maintenance for non-OEM equipment as I've had my Smittybilt front bumper and N-Fab rock rails and removable steps Line-Xed, too. Here's what they looked like:

That sort of flaky rust, to that extent - would drive me NUTS.
I'd powder coat all steel parts, and use stainless fasteners with that system.
I've noted rust starting on the fasteners on my wife's JLU mud flaps, but her new one is to be here in a week or two, so won't worry about it.

I have Rokbloks and they are starting to look this as well. I was going to get them redone, but I think I'll redraw the brackets in Fusion and have em cut out of alum.

I wish companies would stop selling products like this out of steel knowing that they will be subject to getting blasted with salt, and especially stop providing shit steel hardware. Aluminum is not that much more expensive, and for something like this will be plenty sturdy.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have Rokbloks and they are starting to look this as well. I was going to get them redone, but I think I'll redraw the brackets in Fusion and have em cut out of alum.

I wish companies would stop selling products like this out of steel knowing that they will be subject to getting blasted with salt, and especially stop providing shit steel hardware. Aluminum is not that much more expensive, and for something like this will be plenty sturdy.

Gee, that costs them money LOL
More profit in sending out chinese hardware and letting the buyer/owner deal with it after a season or two.
I actually strip paint off some things these days and stuff like brackets, powder coat them.
They don't prep the steel, and they use the lowest cost paint methods possible. Fasteners like screws and such come from China in many cases..

 

[J Sierra]

Roblox
I live on dirt road when it rains I get this

 

[jac04]

I have Rokbloks and they are starting to look this as well. I was going to get them redone, but I think I'll redraw the brackets in Fusion and have em cut out of alum.

Keep us posted if you do this. I'd be interested in a set of brackets if they aren't too expensive.

 

[ArcticDreadnought]

Another vote for Rokblokz.

I actually reversed over a snow berm here in Alaska and didnt realize it was ice until it managed to rip off my right rear mudflap, bracket and all. Rokblokz got back to me within hours and helped replace the entire thing.

Good company, good product.

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