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I just checked my inverter with a true RMS meter and it says 92.6V. Not good. The frequency is also a bit off (61HZ) which will impact things that reference to line frequency like old VCRs, turntables and probably some newer stuff. For easy AC line measurements you really need a 2 prong to...

The 120V inverter (actually about 90V) is not 100% efficient and will use more than 400w @ 12V to make 400w @ 90v. If it’s around 80% efficient that would up its input current to about 40A and could be more. The square wave output of the inverter is not good for some electronics which are...

I see 400w “pure sine wave” inverters new under $70. There is no excuse for a square wave piece of crap considering what we paid.

You should be good standing up in a Casita to 6ft then it can be painful. I recently did some mods on mine removing the two swivel captains chairs and building bench seats with storage under the cushions that converts to a 6ft bed. I was also able to increase the removable table size. For non...

Looks like Gladiators, Scamps and Casitas are a thing, so here is mine. 2021 Mojave and a 2010 16ft Casita.

I know this is an old thread and I had a front windshield replaced by Safelite and they did the calibration. Last week I had my leaky rear windshield replaced by the dealer who sent their glass guys to my house and in chatting with them about front windshields they say if you don’t disconnect...

You shouldn’t have to connect the batteries together, they each serve a specific function and should be separated except for charging and the diode isolating charging thing does that. BTW, in my experience mechanical things like battery switches will fail before non mechanical electrical items.

Typically you have your stock battery and electrical system intact and add a secondary battery for stuff that you don’t want to run down the stock system with starter battery. You can even transfer the stock stereo system and other things to the new aux battery to keep them away from the starter...

If you have a dual battery system don’t you already have a diode isolating charging thingee between the alternator and batteries? If so you just connect your solar charge controller to the alternator output and let the rest of the system do its job. For battery isolation I would use Schottky...

Since you have a ground loop isolator in the RCA plug preamp path my guess is the new amplifier is not very well filtered on its DC input side and a high current power line filter may may help. If you were local to me I could loan you one to try out.

I like to prove things out and only buy what’s needed to fix a problem rather than shotgun it and stick things in until it works. With that said I would recommend testing the setup by powering the amp from a separate battery or power supply and see if the noise goes away. If so it could be...

This is cheap and can clean up some ground loop problems by isolating the ground between preamp and power amp audio cables...

Ground loops can be caused from different components in a system being grounded at different points where the ground potential is not the same. The grounds will then try to equalize and current can flow on the grounded shield of audio cables inducing any noise like alternator whine into the...

In that case your coax will be the least of your worries.

You can run the cable inside the frame all the way from the front bed wall to the engine compartment where it will be protected and won’t need to be tied down, except for where it enters and exits the frame.

Look under the truck on either side at the far outer edges of the chassis just behind the front of the rear seats. There are two rubber/plastic grommets that will get a wire up under the rear seat. Then you can run under the carpet to the front or under the dash, etc. My three radios sit under...

I have an NMO mount centered on the same upper bed rail and brought the coax up through an existing grommet under the rear seat. Ty-Raps are fine, just don’t make them too tight where they deform the coax.

It’s not good to have the base of the antenna above the ground plane like that, you take a big hit in efficiency. You will notice a reduction in range compared to having the same antenna mounted on a large flat sheet of metal. BTW I do a lot of antenna testing under conditions like this.

How bout a pissed off ham? If I were to show up at an off road meet and a bunch of idiots with no amateur license fired up on amateur frequencies with Baoturd radios there would be a big problem. I’m not fond of A Holes that don’t think they need to abide by rules like FCC licenses or paying for...

I would not recommend the upper rear bed rail against the rear window for a CB antenna, not enough ground plane. It can work ok for UHF/GMRS. My favorite spot for most antennas is an NMO trunk lip mount on the hood near the hinges, the hood provides the best ground plane for most antennas. I...