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As a side note, one thing is now certain. If you think you have death wobble, you don't. You KNOW immediately when you have DW. I've had some shimmy before, but nothing like that.

I came here with exactly the same issue. 37s and 4" lift. Shimmy starts at about 50 mph and ramps up on a hurry to uncontrollable. If I can get to 70 without hitting a bump it'll mostly be better. Once it starts, I have to go below 45 mph to stop it. Everything was fine until yesterday...

I fully believe it is connected to power, because it works. I mean to say that I doubt it being connected to anything further than that, like the ECU/BCU. I would expect the radio to be contained within the visor. I'm hoping anyway.

Starting yesterday, my garage door opener (the integrated one on the visor) is now randomly activating. Remote started the truck yesterday morning and the door opened halfway, stopped, closed, then reopened. Did that a couple times. Then when I got home it started up as I drove down my...

I had one on my last truck and it was great. I just used a flip up plate holder. These sit so high in the rear that the pin should be pretty easy. I was looking at doing this, but had 2 concerns. First, I drag the hitch a lot and with it gone, I think I will drag the thin OEM bumper and...

Also check the hood switches. Not sure why that would have been adjusted, but both need to be connected and in position for it to work. I have one out to avoid ASS.

Just to follow up. Finally got the clunk fixed. It was a rear lower control arm bolt. It was already tight, but not enough. I would guess it was at 70 ft/lbs. It went about 1/2 to 3/4 turn to my calibrated torque hand at 130 ft/lbs. If you have a clunk in the rear with forward and reverse...

No idea why people take issues with the seats. Drive a Tacoma for a bit and these feel like a la-z-boy.

Those are what I was looking at. I like the heims and the adjustability.

It sounded to me like my noise was not the end links, but it's hard to tell with someone driving away quickly as you lay underneath. I'll check this too. I'm hoping for end links. Dropping the rear enough to fit 4" lift springs is a pain in the ass. I do have extended brake lines now, so...

What links do you have? Mine are from Readylift and the sleeve is longer than the rubber bushing around it, so you can tighten them, but it never tightens the actual end link. I'm going to pull them when the rain stops and make sure that's the noise I have and replace them. Both sides have a...

Just slop allowing to shift? The design of the bushing these is...not great. The metal spacer/sleeve that goes over the bolt is long enough that tightening the bolt only tightens against that sleeve and does not allow you to put any pressure on that bushing to take the play out. I'll pull...

So another round for me. Last time I found a front lower control arm bolt loose. This time is proving more difficult. There is a metal on metal sounding clunk in the rear. Probably getting louder after a couple weeks wheeling in CO. If I hit the gas forward with some gusto, I get a clunk...

Lol. Here's an offroad truck that sucks offroad with 800lbs extra lbs of unnecessary expense!

0 offset in 8.5". I think they only have one offset in the 8.5" if I remember right. They do make a 9" also in 5x5, but I don't remember the offset options.

You might have been the one that recommended the PB Blaster and I appreciate it. The local store did not have it, but did have the WD40 version. It seems to hold up better than the rust preventatives I have used before. Not cheap, but worth it if it lasts. Fluid film is great, but doesn't...

That's weird. I just spent a couple weeks in CO and found the same thing when I got back. Same side, same fastener.

Method 701 beadgrip. I like them and have run below 10 psi a few times.

I have these and like them too. Except the black screws on the tie downs that rust immediately. Strong system that I attach a bed rack to for part of the year.

Good. Inspections are a joke. The government can't touch anything without screwing it up.