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Finally got it all to fit. I didn't want to bend or weld, but it just didn't fit without it. It has plenty of clearance even at full steering lock and as much flex as I could test at home. I would have preferred keeping the axle end of the mount more level with the tie rod, but there just...

I am trying to avoid that at this point as I've already spent a lot of time and money to fix my loose steering. The drag link rod end on my stock bar was toast. I made a couple prototype brackets and have settled on one that I think will work. I need to mount it all up and make sure it clears...

Well damnit, no luck. The Synergy mount gives me exactly the same travel as the modified Clayton bracket. I have a bunch of leftover 3/16" plate left, so I think I'm going to take some measurements and relocate the mount a little higher or lower to miss the drag link. I was hoping it was a...

Those are a cool idea.

You are not wrong. The jam nuts are hard to get tight enough to stay.

Awesome, you have a similar setup. I am at a 4" list using Synergy springs currently. I'll get one of those coming and see if I can get it all to play nicely. Appreciate it!

I need to go back to this post and reassess. I think you were on to something as shown in the last post. The track bolt mount I was using had a threaded end with a nut. The Synergy one should save a little room due to the internal threads.

I hope to avoid that, but good to know.

I had a track bar bolt mount on first and it did hit. The clayton mount was a touch better on clearance

I'm not sure how I didn't see those when I looked. Was tired lol. Well, it made contact at like 15 degrees of turn. I plug welded the holes in the relocation bracket and redrilled it 12mm closer to the axle, shaved the mount, and can get to 30 degrees of steering. That's still not enough...

Awesome thanks. I think I may move the drag link to a to mount, but this will get me by until I can get the new rod end. Going to take some measurements and see what looks like the best solution.

I'm also going to see if there would be enough clearance if I moved the mount back toward the passenger tire. I may end up having to make a new bracket.

Was rotating tires and noticed that my new drag link was contacting the steering stabilizer. I had the single relocation bolt that replaces your track bar bolt. I happened to have a Clayton relocation bracket so I put that in instead. I have slightly more clearance now, but it will still...

Looks normal. I had DW and just got it all dialed back in and feeling right. Got tires balanced, alignment done, replaced the steering stabilizer with Falcon 2.1 and flipped mount, and replaced the drag link. Drag link was the last piece of the puzzle. It finally got bad enough I could feel...

You guys don't use your lockers?

That was my question. Hood shut. Try the other sensor. If one goes to the alarm module, that could be an issue.

Looking at it, Doors do not need to be locked. They lock on activation. Edit. Nm. See you were trying to see if doors lock on activation.

If using a hood sensor, try the other one instead.

That's not true