Search results

I would be curious as to how it could "cure" turbo lag. Turbo lag is caused by not having the exhaust flow to create boost. Anti-lag is the only thing I have ever seen that actually helps by dumping raw fuel into the stream, but I can't imagine that's easy on the turbo. You can remap the...

That's right where I am at too. Same setup. I do get into the 14s on summer gas.

The additional weight and complexity are absolutely not anything I will buy. An outdoor "backcountry" oriented vehicle and EV does not mix.

I don't like digressive on an off road vehicle. That includes the 5100s. They are ok for being cheap and they give a firmer feel, but at the expense of being harsh. I have been happy with Falcons and may move to the 3.2 or Kings next.

Agreed.

I had no issues. I went to a broker and my new rates are a little lower than my old rates before the increase. I keep the homeowners, umbrella, and vehicles all together except for a classic car policy.

Well after doing more research the pass through stabilizer on their website says that it is not compatible with low steer mounted drag link. I guess I am stuck with my mount or doing some more relocating. On the plus side, I went out last weekend and was not able to get anything to touch when...

I have not driven it, but researched quite a bit as I planned on taking it from Moab. I would not take a trailer, but I've also never towed an off road trailer. I ended up not having time and instead took the Moab Trail that runs from Moab to Gateway CO. It's some paved with some forest roads...

I've been thinking the same. I moved my spare to my bed rack. I'm at 37s and going a little bigger next too. Water is a cool idea.

Not sure why I didn't think to ask them. @Rock Krawler Suspension Any tips on how to make a flipped pass through stabilizer fit with the drag link?

Still working in getting this to fit right. I'd really like to keep it. I am now looking at making a new mount that moves the Synergy track bolt style mount. I am thinking about modifying that bolt and off setting it to the driver's side to clear the drag link. I don't like the stabilizer...

I did not find the tie rod to be an issue. It clears slightly on hard right turns. The issue for me was the drag link. Terraflex and Synergy track bar bolt mounts both hit along with the Clayton mount on a hard left. I cut the Clayton mount and moved the holes and it was closer, but still...

Well I will be going right through Nashville in 2 weeks. This legit or not OP? In person only.

I agree with going 37s and lift. I did regear and would recommend it, but that's up to you. No way I'd spend portal money. I'd go built 44s or tons and 40s instead. Not suggesting skids aren't needed, but they are sure needed more on a stock truck.

I'd agree. I went RK for two main reasons. One is that I really like aluminum because of winter road salt and rust and two because my drag link rod end was completely shot and RK was available to get in hand in 2 days. But at this point I would have been time and money ahead to go with steel...

Ah gotcha.

Hard to say with other parts. Honestly, I believe double shear mounts for the stabilizer are way overkill anyway. I have not heard of the Synergy and Teraflex track bar mounting bolt extensions fail. There just isn't the same force on those as the drag link and tie rods themselves. I ended...

Out of curiosity, where was the minor contact you still had with that setup?

It should fit with the stock drag link and tie rod. The aluminum drag link like I used doesn't have a bend in the bar, just an offset end, so it has reduced clearance where the stabilizer relocation bracket mounts.

That would hit the drag link in my setup until I move it to top steer. I may still do that when I upgrade my tie rod.