Sounds like I'm the only one so far that had a flat on a factory aluminum wheel, swapped on the factory steel spare, popped out the plastic center cap and stowed the alu wheel. I never stopped to think about whether it would work, but it definitely did. Yah there is kind of a tight fit with...
I also looked at mounting one of these in the space, shouldn't be hard to rig this up. Could even be a permanent mount, extend out fill and drain hoses, then put the fill plates back
I think I've seen someone else did that, either this thread or maybe a Tacoma thread. For me, it's basically...
I don't have a shower cube, or awning, or roof bars or anything on the roof bars, for whatever that's worth. It does read like CYA to me. Nevertheless, a bit of bracing make sense and isn't hard.
I just have my maxtrax in the empty space. I'll put "just" in quotes, because it was a bit of an...
I guess I’ll find out ? That would explain the absurd number of bolts holding those filler panels on. I suppose they’re concerned about dynamic loads on the cantilevered nose of the camper
Maybe I’ll add back a triangulated brace to the upper, inside corner
Hard to describe without pictures, but you can probably push in the unpowered pin with a slim, stiff piece of metal of the right width. Something like a feeler gauge of the right thickness. Not the ultimate security - but these are plastic handles, if someone really wants in, it’s not much...
I actually have the Canopy Camper, not the Camper shell, so I just pulled the wiring harness out of my tailgate (sitting in storage, as you remove it for the ACCC) and tapped the brake signal and lock signal. I wish I’d noted down what the wire colors were. It was very obvious on a multimeter...
OK, fair play. If that bow shackle isn't the lovely, clean one in the picture with a nice plastic protector, but is some bubba's on the trail that's been dragged on rocks for decades and is full of sharp metal burrs - you're right, I wouldn't touch it with my good stuff
Word of warning. I bought the power lock kit a while back, and drilled all my plastic lock housings at once using the drill template. Then none of them worked. In my case, the pin is running into the very edge of the latch, and won't extend fully. So no function until I get in there with a...
Going to link to an earlier discussion we had that touches on this:
Super instructional moment here. Soft shackle straight into a hardpoint for a metal D-ring, no radiused or tapered edge. The towed vehicle rolls right and hangs up a rear wheel, so for an instant 100% of the force goes on that...
Correct, you don't need any SGW bypass to just read from OBD2. Only to change things like tire size, and - this is the the reason I have both Jscan and Tazer - cycle the ABS pump during brake bleeding.
Do note, if you haven't watched the hour video, this was a snatch recovery with dynamic line. Not a static winch recovery. I'm not going to tell anyone not to use a blanket at all times, but when a static synthetic rig fails, it doesn't shoot back at the driver at mach 10 like this did.
He is...
You need a SGW bypass cable (to unlock edit access over OBD2). This is separate from the OBD2 port, and separate from SGW extension cables (which are just dumb wire, no secure gateway bypass. Optional but saves a lot of knuckle skin as stated above). Personally I have extension cables going to...
About 45/55 front/rear as loaded for big trips. The weight on the front is mostly fixed and always the same - all the variable weight goes on or behind the rear axle. I've been trying to move whatever I can to the back seat floor (working on a seat delete and dog platform, which will help a lot)
important details are scattered through an hour long video. I couldn't find what actually failed on the pull side? Pin in a hard shackle? Recovery point pulled off the bumper? What is it that came through the windshield?