Just that one little bolt that goes through the rotor into the hub. Anyone know the part number? Buggered the "teeth" taking one out. Had to drill it so I could keep going. I don't know that it is really necessary, but it is useful to hold the rotor in alignment.
:angry:
Hopefully it was bone stock....that really sucks.
Here is my before after. I feel bad posting it now lol
I know the trail pic is kinda lame but it's all I got right now... we stopped to check out this gopher snake I almost killed.
Sway bar links look a little long. You should be at 4-5* up, yours looks a little high.
Kind of hard to tell in the picture, but maybe flip the drag link to the bottom side at the knuckle. You won't really loose any clearance. It just looks like drag link and track bar are not really parallel...
That part number comes up as being for rear bumper, but maybe it is the same for front.
I already had the skid (Rubi), so the nutserts are already in the frame. But you need to crush then for sure, not sure where you saw 15 ft-lbs.
That is a good point about the factory arms. Clayton arms are maybe a little wider though, since they are really beefy.
Update 9-22:
Just had a longshot thought...MAYBE someone has both arms after a lift and can measure the difference in size? That would be sweet. I don't have to potentially...
Haven't heard anything from @Clayton Off Road . I have not had a chance to flex it out too much either to check. Sure thought someone would have this combo already and know the answer.
One thing came to mind while reading your spot on explanation of the disconnect is the case where you go to a one piece axle shaft, as in chromo etc., then the manual hub would be a benefit. But then you are probably not too worried about mileage at that point anyway.