Tough question since there really isn't a bad choice for you. I picked the diesel after owning a JK with the 3.6 and driving a friends JL with the 3.6. No issues there and it will do the job. The diesel drives like a different vehicle and it I find it a lot more enjoyable. That said my primary...
Same for me on the emissions stuff. I did learn that a diesel will pass smog in CA with any 2 monitors not live. Wasn't able to get them all to trigger and it still passed.
I am partial to the AEV wheels - had them on my JK as well.
Warn wheels would be my second choice.
Wheels specifically designed for Jeeps are a better choice imo
Tried that, but couldn't quite get it so gave up. They are just to keep the bracket from pivoting so it should be fine. Will watch those bolts when on the trail.
I just put on the rear frame side Rusty's. The drivers side was a pain as mentioned above - had to drill out one hole to make it fit. Also difficult to get a wrench on the small bolts to get them tight. safety wired them just in case they ever come loose. Look beefy and will test them a little...
There is a motor only on the local CL for $2,500. Would think a motor trans set up would be worth a good chunk. Excellent transplant into an old truck, jeep or maybe a landcruiser.
Same for me -this is a bucket list truck. Jury is out on the diesel since it is so new. It sure does drive nice though. The 4.56s make the 37s feel like it is a stock set up.
@rubicon4wheeler followed your lead and did the hood vents after work tonight. Very easy other than breaking a few clips. I already ordered a few before starting as I assumed my ham fisted approach would have that result. Had some gold tape left over from another project to keep the edges from...
I was fortunate enough to be able to keep my Ram for towing the travel trailer. Would be great if the JT could live up to the paper as @rharr said, but my main use is for camping and off-road. Towing is a nice to have that I probably won't get. The little off road done so far is much better than...
Here is what is below the rubber insulation and the other side under the intake tube.
Agree @Almost but here in CA a full delete would probably be a big problem. Cant even get a tune that helps.
Under the cover there are two pretty big chunks of dense rubber - one next to the battery and another one partially under the intake tube.
Removed the one by the battery. There is a clip with the wire attached and a 10mm nut battery side attached to a small metal bracket in the rubber piece...
Working on the layout of mine. Used the ceiling rivets to mount traction boards and a shovel (didn't grab a pic of the shovel). Added a tow strap on the door - plenty of power in the struts for a little weight on them. Some frontrunner cross bars up top. Used a Wilco bed mount and was able to...
This is on my to-do list for this weekend. Hot socal summer is going to be challenging. Already removed the engine cover and the battery side chunk of insulation. Will remove the driver side chunk when I get a new intake. really should open up some airflow across those parts. Since we are having...
They all look good!
Gobi was my first choice, but pulled the trigger a few months too early to get the current Gobi.
Went with Sarge green and tan leather.
Snazzleberry was my backup.
If only they had a root beer and tan leather, oh that would have been nice.
So I got excited and ordered a Metalcloak rear diff slider before the JT arrived.
Had one on the JK and was impressed with it.
Went to put it on tonight and won't fit with the AEV lift.
The rear track bar relocation bracket uses most of the space where the Metalcloak slider should mount to the...