I changed out he front stock LCAs to the Mopar Performance Extended LCAs. Not to hard, other than the damn torque when putting the bolts back in. I got an alignment afterwards to compare with an alignment from a few months back. Looks to add 1° of Caster, to 5.5°. It did reduce steering...
Rubicon fenders definitely go up higher to the hood line., which provides more room for larger tires and better articulation. Mine are stock except for the Mopar extensions. They can be painted like yours or the rougher black finish like mine. Folks change fenders, so you you see may or may...
I dont see this as being that hard. Just need to disconnect your current lights and splice in the LED lights once you figure out the wiring but if your old fogs are not LED, you may need to use JSCAN or Tazer to change the computer to LED or possibly add some resisters.
The trunk lip mount uses one or two small screws on the back side to hold it in place. I would trust a single bolt that I could torque down., if that was a concern. Also, what kind of RF ground do you get with those one or two small screws that you tighten down into the paint. There...
Installed the Mopar Aux Switch Kit. Didn't de-pin the connector but just spliced into the orange wire and continued on. I did try for a bit to get the pin out but was struggling with the de-pin kit I had so just went for the easier method and not worry about the pin. Used the Tazer to program...
I had a rattle after hard bumps that sounded like it was the door. Never could locate it, till the first time I took off my hard top. After removing the Freedom Panels, I found the front bolt holding the hard top down was finger tight if that (The front one just above the drivers head)...
The harness that plugs into the light has 4 wires, one of which is just for the halo at least on my 23. You could unplug the harness from the light and use a volt meter to determine if you are getting the voltage applied to the halo. I am not sure which one is the halo, but there should be a...
Wow, the MSRP is not even that much. https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/68257030aa.html
This is from a Forum sponsor where you can get 1/2 off shipping.
I recently ordered the MOPAR unit too due to it being cheaper. Instead of de-pinning and re-pinning I will probably cut and splice after reading this....In particular the last part of his step 6...
So, it appears you added close to 2 deg of caster, assuming you were about 4 to begin with. Before adding the extended LCAs I also assume you had a bit of wander.
I have a 23 JTR. Stock suspension. But have added the 8" wide Rubicon Extreme Recon XR wheels with +12 offset and BFG 12x35s that give me about 1' poke. It also seems to have made the steering to have a bit more wander. Not necessarily horrible, but seems more than it had new. Now...
The Z-Automotive use the head unit like OEM. After you do the hardware part, use the Tazer or other method to turn on the switch control in the Head unit. You have the same functionality as the OEM version. Also seems a bit easier to install since you dont have to re-pin a connector.
Are you able to punch/cut the hole in the firewall grommet from the inside? Then push the fish from the outside? Seems taking out the Aux battery would give some more room. I plan on giving it a try, just dont want to cut any of the wires already in the firewall.
This will give you a visual of changes. Just enter you stock offset and what you want to go to. My stock OEM Rubicon wheels are Backspacing 6.25” (44.45mm offset) https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/