Search results

Agreed on the geometry correction brackets, except depending on the OP's off-roading habits. The brackets can get stuck on rocks, etc, whereas the CA's tend to act more like skid plates or rock rails. I have the geo brackets on my daughter's JK and they do work VERY well to control front...

First off: congrats! As far as the alignment, they can help really "dial in" the track bar and drag link but that's the only adjustment they can make. Camber is fixed on these axles and caster can only be corrected with adjustable control arms. As far as the sway bar angle, you'll want to...

No matter how many times I have done this, I always go the wrong way the first turn ?

I have a 12k winch and the Warn winch plate (and also a Rubicon). I dropped less than an inch total. I would not go 1.5" unless you also want to get rid of the factory rake.

... and you will likely need to adjust the drag link so the steering wheel is recentered.

Divide in half. and as others have said, mount the passenger side link to the inside of the mounting tab like you did on the driver's side.

Ok, I know you said it wasn't the brake pad sticking, but on 2 other Jeeps I've had issues with the caliper adapter (the bracket) having some play where the pins insert (like they were bored out too much). The play caused the caliper pins to have room to wiggle so they were not exactly 90° from...

The shocks in the MOPAR kit are 2.5" (I have them). Not remote reservoir, but they are 2.5. Factory Rubi shocks are 2.0 and, as others have said, not the same as the 2.0 Fox shocks you get directly from Fox.

Shaving? no way, that's too dangerous. I was fixing my hair in the visor mirror and lighting a cigar. And my dog ate my fries ?

Don't almost all these threads get hijacked at some point? ? (please excuse typos, I was shifting into 3rd while trying to eat McDonalds and drinking a hot coffee)

I don't have a practical reason for owning an MT, but I have my reasons: 1) It's just FUN to drive 2) It requires more skill on the difficult trails 3) I feel more "connected" to my rig 4) Without it, my left leg gets bored and eventually atrophies from lack of use

To be more specific, when I press the clutch or gas I get a "Driver Override" message in the cluster, but as soon as I release the clutch, the ACC picks back up.

I have the ACC feature on my 2022 6MT. I haven't even used the "regular" cruise control, but when using ACC I can change gears up/down and the ACC does not disengage. If I touch the brake, it does.

I think you want the 5 lug 14x1.5... factory specs are M14x1.5 45mm.

^^ Yep! 0mm offset is what you want to get the same "poke"

Dana calls for 30-40 for almost all their diff covers from D30's to D80's

Side to side movement is not acceptable (to the OP). One way to check is to get under it while someone steers left/right. If you see the drag link move and the steering knuckle doesn't move with it, you may have an issue.

Keep in mind, my rig (the Granite Crystal one) also had 4 tires in the bed so the rake was almost non existent. The original OP pic absolutely has a rake

I've never had luck getting trail mud off at an automatic car wash. I run it through the cheapest cycle (touchless only for me...) to get off the big stuff, then take it home and pressure wash the rest. Undercarriage is the worst, especially sand/mud... make sure you get up under it and clean...

I think from this angle that's the draglink... does it go up and to the driver's side at an angle or straight across to the other wheel? If up/angled then it's the draglink: this is what steers the vehicle. The torque spec is 63 ft-lbs... (corrected from original post)