Search results

Negotiate a ‘21 down toward their invoice. They’ll have no carry costs and can keep all the holdback. Everybody plays, everybody wins. Zero reason to pay retail premium for a car the dealer will have zero risk in. if that doesnt work, look at cost of low mileage ‘20’s on the used market and see...

No but this is bad ass. Thread subscribed!

With my 2 inch mopar lift I started making contact with my Yeti XD front track bar when we installed the ARB front diff cover. The dipstick neck on the ARB made contact. A thinner track bar probably wouldn’t touch. We ended up trading out the ARB for a motobilt cover when we put on the clayton...

This summer we installed a lot of heavier duty steering parts, and noticed that it was actually binding a little/making contact with the Mopar 2 inch lift we had. Check this link for full specs:Silvertruck build notes After discussing with my builder Elite Offroad and Performance in Chelsea...

Here’s the jeep’s full spec sheet. I would like to thank Josh Balch and the team at Elite Offroad and Performance in Chelsea Alabama for helping me visualize and build this project jeep, which I drive every day. 2020 Gladiator JTR: Clayton overland plus adjustable control arms front and rear...

Ok, the @Clayton Off Road 3.5” overland plus lift is on. Paired it with Fox 2.0 performance series shocks. The Adams front driveshaft is ordered and goes on next week. Here are the details: Adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear Tuned springs (clayton specs) Bump stop extensions...

I wish I knew. Dealer added them before i found the truck. They are fuel kickers

My JT on 37 mud terrains with about 4 inches of lift is my daily and my tripper. Works great. Not gonna be in a hurry but it works good. We split time between it and our alfa romeo giulia ti and the truck gets the nod just as much.

Really, everyone is right. If you wanted to you could absolutely build an overland to be strong as garlic. But, it gets harder at a point to stuff $4500 d44’s or $7k d60’s underneath. And then you really will be thinking about $2k in driveshafts, $3k in labor, etc etc. also, with a setup like...

Here’s the hail mary - Trade for a rubicon, dealer add the lift and tires and gears. Get warranty and long term financing in trade for taking a bath on the trade in. Would provide the platform you are looking for with more durability and factory assembled for most part.

Hey man exciting plans. I would suggest including gears in your budget with 37’s. Also, at three inches lift, if you wheel it hard expect to eventually need a front driveshaft. I have found it better over the years to try to address the whole system not just certain parts. The good thing is...

I’ve got toyo open country MT’s and they are loud and I love it. No compromise traction, people know it, see it, hear it. Its what I got a jeep for. A little tire hum makes everything better.

Dude. Think about how messed up things would be in general if 16 yo opinions ran the world. Dont sweat that. keep truckin.

To the OP, get one, rip the top off, get some mud on the fenders, dont look back. If that doesnt sound good, its not the right one. Keep looking.

thanks man. Setup is: Mopar 2 inch lift 37x12.50 17 toyo open country MT’s on fuel kickers Dana spicer 4.88’s Clayton front LCA’s RPM steering 2.5 ton drag link and tie rod Yeti XD front track bar Synergy steering brace Artec front axle truss and armor kit Clayton FAD skid Dana spicer 1 ton ball...

This is a cool thread. Here’s a couple from earlier this year

Yeah man no hijack I think making different combos is what makes jeeping cool. For those that remember, this topic reminds me of the old h pipe or x pipe debate with fox body mustangs...back when the fox was the late model. 5.38’s would be too agressive for my driving style or anything needed...

Great rig...great name for it too

Sweet wheels man.