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Didn't own it, but "drove" it for a while...

Get the headliner for the Sunrider, and you'll be happy. Whatever tradeoff there is (slightly more noise, and maybe more heat) will be quickly forgotten. I wish I had gotten the Sunrider (and headliner) years earlier than I did. I know it gets much hotter in Texas than SoCal, but the inside will...

That is great. I didn't know there was a contractors' version. When I run out of the regular stuff, I'll give this a shot. Thanks.

Cleaned up the Jeep today. I thought I would try the Chemical Guys' Hydro Shield plastic coating. I'll be happy if it keeps the fender wells black for a couple weeks. I sprayed and rubbed some on the steel bumper and frame, and they look great. Even drove it through a car wash. Most other stuff...

I've used Goo Gone and other removers, but I keep coming back to De-Solv-It. Never had issues with paint (clear coated) surfaces. For foamy adhesives, just let it soak a bit.

I did the same, except with Rusty's SS brake lines. I used these to extend the ABS sensor lines. They were the perfect length. Fronts sensor lines are plenty long enough (no need for extensions). https://gpautosports.com/products/jl-jt-abs-sensor-extensions

I bought individual parts from various places. Saved quite a bit of money. Got Mopar parts, with the exception of the soft Fox shocks. Went with Falcon adjustables. I really like my set up. Here's a parts list from the installation instructions. Good luck.

I didn't have to replace any clips (lucky). The outer panel has 5 screws you have to remove before popping off the panel: 1 hidden behind the door latch, 2 under the armrest, and 2 at the bottom (under the net map pocket). The only trim tool I needed was for the cover behind the door latch. I...

Darn, I wasn't able to take pictures with the door panel off. It was easy to remove the outer panel. I disconnected the cables and harness to take the panel off completely. Then, I removed all of the 10mm hex bolts on the inner panel. That allowed me to be able to reach in a little bit from the...

Replaced the door check, and noise gone! New one on right (68297663AC). I couldn't get the old one to make any noises, even after drilling out the rivots and taking it apart. Looked like just normal wear. No cracks or broken spring.

Installed my BRP subwoofer box with two 10" Kicker Comp RT subs. I relocated the underseat stuff (fire extinguisher, jack, tools, etc.) to a bin in the bed. I also relocated the bass control knob to the dash. I resisted drilling into the dash, but I got over it pretty quickly, as it is so...

Darn, I didn't have this issue until I read this thread. I have the clicking noise (driver side). All four doors are brand new (warranty)!

Already have one ordered, right?

Haha, yes, less than $15 would be great. I'm cheap. They have been lasting just over a year in the SoCal sun. I park outside. I can't tell that they are any worse than the overpriced factory ones.

I've been buying these, and they have been pretty good. Interested in seeing what others use if there are cheaper ones. https://a.co/d/091gjSsN

Pretty sure that's a flag nut.

Had similar on my factory Wildpeaks. They got pretty noisy (howling on the freeway). Alignment was good. Four tire cross rotation didn't help. I might have caught it too late. Switched to KO2s when I went to 35s. So much quieter and more comfortable. Good luck.

You should be able to tap into the analog signals in the passenger side B pillar, just not the digital signals between the head unit and amplifier.

Yep, that's it. There are cheaper ways. You can just get a LOC and tep into the speaker wires.