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Do it! Old Land Rovers are like big model kits. Awesome restoration projects, lots of fun. I've restored several of them. You just start with a new galvanized chassis and go from there...

Yes

Well said. And the internet is the perfect tool to distribute these "beliefacts". It brings to mind this quote by Blaise Pascal: “Truth is so obscure in these times, and falsehood so established, that, unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.”

I did a full compliment of studs (244 per tire) right after I took that picture. Extra glad I have the rubber mat now.

I use the DeeZee DZ87026 rubber mat with my factory spray-in bedliner (which is essentially the texture of coarse sandpaper). Works great, and keeps things from sliding around. Now I just need to get something to cover the tailgate to save my knees when I get up into the bed.

Oh, yeah, this 'correct' stuff can be a real PITA. I was lucky enough to find this little NOS gem still in the original packaging. All the repros have the key slot horizontal, so you can easily tell a real one.

I didn't even know this was possible:

Because of the availability of dual exhaust on some models, the fuel fill had to be in the center. I mean, really, everybody doesn't know that?:giggle: ... and some cars made no attempt to hide the fuel fill, even using the cas cap for a little bling:

Not definitely. You need to do some measuring and checking first. Some wheels have 'pockets' on the back side that provide clearance the original wheel studs to protrude.

H&R Trak+ actually has some 25mm (.98") and 30mm (1.18") thick spacers listed:

I've been trying to sell mine for over 6 months. I'm down to $50 and nobody seems interested.

Yes, I made them out of some old mud flap material that I had. I attached them using the existing location push-clip (christmas tree clip) and a plastic spacer with more push-clips. I cut the spacer from McMaster Carr p/n 92825A151.

Here is another flap idea for those of you running the Overland side steps. These little flaps help limit the amount of debris that ends up on top of the side steps:

Try taping off different areas with blue painter's tape to see if you can find where it is coming from. My 2021 Mojave had a loud air rushing noise from the driver's side from the get-go. I thought it was the alignment of the freedom panels, but figured I would start investigating the easiest...

Interesting. I don't see it on my own vehicle because I keep it in a garage. 15F here this morning, so plenty of vehicles with visible frost all over them on my morning commute, but I've never seen one 'steaming'. But I can see how it would happen under the right circumstances.

Really? Near the hood on every vehicle? I see exhaust condensation all the time in cold weather, but I've never seen any condensation vapor comping from under the hood or grille area unless it is cold & rainy.

The nice thing about the RB 'long' flaps versus WT is that they keep the rear bumper area clean:

Agreed, the new spray waxes are a godsend IMO. So easy to use! I also use it on the plastic inner fender liners as well as the undercarriage. I really like it for the black plastic fenders and bumpers. My JK has permanent mud stains on the black plastic fenders, but everything just rinses...

Treat the hard top like a painted surface, because it is a matte paint. There is no reason you can't use traditional wax on it, but there are so many better 'wax' products that you can use. I use Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Pro Graphene Flex Wax. It works great. Just don't use any polishes...

No, those are the 'standard' plug welds. I'm talking about fillet welds where the tubes meet the center section. However, I also had the factory plug welds completely excavated and re-welded properly. As Rusty PW mentioned, these plug welds often lack penetration. This is the only picture I...