Pressed & plug welded, but there have been several reports of tubes twisted within the center section on the JK forums. It's one of the reasons my JK has a custom-built D44 rear end with heavier tubes that are fully welded to the center section.
Money isn't an issue for me. I have a 2-door JK Rubicon off-road toy along with my Mojave and a few other vehicles. The Mojave is 'full size' enough for my needs.
If you don't install the bump stops, you may end up bottoming-out the shock absorbers, which is not a good thing and can ruin a shock.
The Mojave will engage the front bump stops earlier than other models because they are hydraulic and progressive in nature.
Ideally, you should add a spacer to...
^^This is so true. I still have a 68 Camaro convertible that my father special ordered brand new. I rode home from the hospital in it after being born. I drove it through high school. Now that it is restored, it mostly just sits in a sectioned-off area of the garage. I've thought about...
There is a lot of information on the internet. It doesn't mean it's all true or it applies to all situations. It is important that we don't make what appear to be statements of fact if we aren't 100% sure they are factual or apply to the situation being discussed. Unfortunately, many people...
As far as I know, the center section is ductile/nodular cast iron. Strong stuff with good elongation. I design screwed connections for power plant equipment that use both gray cast iron and ductile cast iron. It's a real stretch to try to say that the forces generated in a straight threaded...
Most manufacturers will try to dismiss mild condensation as normal and tell you it will go away quickly. If it does, great, but it will happen again.
I would take it to the dealer asap while the condensation is still there. It looks like droplets are just starting to form, which is usually...
I think the important lesson here is to not make statements of fact if you aren't 100% sure they are factual. Unfortunately, many people believe whatever they read on an internet forum. Sorry if this comes across as being a jerk, but it's a pet peeve of mine.
I'm not sure that's a decision for us to make. I say put on whichever you want first. Unless you are asking which you should put on first if you are installing both, then put the side steps on first.
The above is not correct. I know because I adjusted my factory LED fog lights.
If I were a betting person, I'd bet that the factroy standard non-LED foglights have an adjustment too. I've never come across a non-adjustable forward lighting unit, and I've worked on a bunch of vehicles over the...
I guess it matters what type of off roading you are doing. I know the OP is from DFW, and I'm not familiar with the terrain in that area, but here in New England, the 2-door is very well suited for our tight & twisty trails. I've never felt any instability due to wheelbase. Another 6"-8" of...
No, not too bad. It's a little bit of a tough pill to swallow at first. Especially when coupled with a complete new rear axle assembly, and the fact that my factory axle assemblies were in perfectly good condition. But, I saw it as an investment in peace of mind, and it made selling the pair...
IIRC, it was just a little over $5k, but here's the way I got it, fully assembled by Northridge:
Factory 4.10 gears (not aftermarket, not Dana SVL)
Dynatrac Crush Sleeve Eliminator
Factory e-locker
Factory input flange
1/2" wall thickness tubes
Artec LCA skids
Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints...
IMO, it's not really the wheelbase, it's more the fairly narrow stock track width. Even so, I've only been on 2 wheels (momentarily) twice. Screen shot from a gopro video, 'corrected' to level:
Thanks!
It's a bunch of fun with 33s, especially in Rubicon X form. Very unassuming.
I'm fully armored, HD steering components, with a Prorock 44 up front and a custom-built HD Dana 44 out back (thicker tubes, HD brackets, fully welded center/tubes). Speak softly but carry a big stick.