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@ShadowsPapa, I think I'd cut bait and sell that sunrider to someone that can use it and buy a premium soft top out of the classifieds... Should be pretty close to a break even, and then you have a solution that you can actually use.

Bone stock M210/M220 on 40's? Absolutely there is a chance. Can you minimize it? yes. Since you said GAS in one of your previous posts, I'm going to assume you have a 3.6 and either 5.13 or 5.38 gearing. The low fenders indicate a 2.72:1 transfercase, so if you are nice on the skinny pedal...

Once you start playing out in the rough stuff, you will almost always want to disconnect once you try it. It really takes a bunch of the head shake out of it. Airing down also helps in the ride quality department. I fought a stock setup once laying in the parking lot trying to get a guy...

Quick disconnects and an air compressor. The disco's keep your tires on the ground, and the compressor allows you to air down at will, and air up when you're done.

Good find! So that explains the funky rear geometry we see. They just slapped that on an M220 and called it a day.

It was the same truck. They renamed it "classic" because they released the new one in 2019. The tooling was paid for so they made both trucks for a few years.

I finally found one of the threads from way back that references the rear UCA and LCAs xref to a ram 1500 too. So maybe they saved some cash there, and then just used a lighter duty axle with similar pick up points.

The new ones yes, but the ram classics from 2014- when the JLs were in development uses some version of a dana 44.

Not 100% positive, but it's why the back half of JTs aren't the same as the JLs and why we got stuck with the crazy short uppers in the rear.

I'm guessing because the rear axle was lifted out of the ram 1500 and they didn't want to spend $ changing any more stuff on it.

some do, but not all. I had a set that I had to drop all the way to 10psi to get even that much wrinkle. Not an issue if you have beadlocks, but I certainly don't want to run any lower.

28" is typically safe. Longer than that you will deform the flange on the TC end of the driveshaft. Mine extend to 28.5 and it has deformed the flange playing in the rocks, but no permanent damage yet.

Stiff, they don't comform to terrain aired down to reasonable levels like a C does.. If you are towing heavy, look at the inflation tables for the tires you are considering, but my 37s at 30 psi are still over the factory tires at 37psi. E rated would be down in the mid/low 20s.

Thats a pretty obvious difference, is the +4 you have different from that +2? Can you put a layer of fuzzy velcro on the +2 and gain another mm?

That's a GREAT tire for your use case. And you won't need tires for 60,000 miles or so.

Do you have the original and the +2 inside the house from that side? I'd like to see where they changed them.

Most 315/70 17s will allow using your stock wheels.. OD is still pretty close still. I also wouldn't recommend an E rated tire unless your rig is really heavy or you wheel in the Southwest where rocks and thorns are constantly trying to rip a sidewall.

I've never seen 240* in the summer. Even after crawling for hours in 4L at 4mph. Mine is a manual, so maybe the trans cooler on the automatics makes a difference? I've seen coolant temps in the low 230*s but the oil stays below 220.

@ShadowsPapa did you grab a pic of the new part before you swapped it over?

Honestly, that doesn't look terrible. As long as your pinion isn't angling down, which would give you 6+ degrees of caster, I wouldn't stress too much. If you measure the angle on the edge of the output flange, does it measure zero?