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20 Gladiator Overland ABS system

iTsMaht

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About me: Very very little mechanical knowledge. My background is information technology and the power industry. So I can figure things out sometimes…

Symptoms:

  1. loss of power to the braking system. Brake becomes sorta limp and gitters as if abs was active and was thinking it needed to compensate for over braking. (This is how I described it while riding my motorcycles that had abs, I hated it).
  2. Grinding noises coming from underneath the vehicle while in 2WD low speeds and unable to use 4WD.
  3. Grinding noises coming from underneath the vehicle while in 4WD low speeds and unable to use 2WD.

NOTE: Each symptom description is intermittent and often not accompanied by the other and have been triggered in different scenarios on multiple occasions.
Example:

  1. Symptom number 1 was triggered at 06/18/23 06:18 MST/23:18 UTC while driving 30ish approaching a stop sign.
  2. Symptom number 2 was triggered leaving a gas station and the issue went away after making it home and leaving it for a while.
  3. Off-roading in moderate conditions.

Commonalities:

Dashboard lights (IPC)
  1. SERV 4WD
  2. ABS/traction control
Remarks: symptoms appear to all be very intermittent and never long lasting. When system is triggered often times the abs/traction control and 4WD H/L are unavailable. Multiple control modules losing communication to various devices within ABS and TCM.

Dealer Interaction: Over all poor interactions with them as they will not even fix my visor that broke. I just bought the 10 dollar fix it kit. At any rate, explaining this problem to them seemed like a circuit overload. You know deer in head lights… They told me they could not assist me without a CEL. Well that’s great because it is often intermittently happening and I’m not available to drive 40 immediately. Long story short, I pulled the codes and been scanning data the last few weeks to build evidence that there is something to resolve.

CODES:
For the sake of brevity on an already long winded post I am only providing codes and not descriptions. Photos of fails will be provided. As for stored and active since faults are intermittent it will only show active if I was able to log the data during the time of that fault and after it would become stored. I am also going to be cleaning up the list to omit items I believe are not related.

STORED
U1440
U0403-00

ACTIVE
U0418
U1412-00
U0140C
P00FD

NOTE:

The vehicles battery that was pushing 4 years failed after I didn’t drive the vehicle for over a month. I have not finished replacing the aux battery but the main was replaced. I am not sure if there are any bidirectional test I can perform to prove the data I currently have and if there is a good method to locating a potential wire fault or pinch point myself.

Potential Resolutions:

1. Per some of the case studies from Chrysler/Jeep there is a control module update that’s suppose to fix this. I am not sure how to validate my current version but I am also not sure if this is the issue.

Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6919


Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6920


Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6921


Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6922


Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6923


Jeep Gladiator 20 Gladiator Overland ABS system IMG_6924
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ShadowsPapa

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I'd replace the final battery before messing with anything else since it's what handles most of the electronics. Why move forward knowing already that you have a problem?
One thing at a time is how to troubleshoot/diagnose/resolve.

Once your batteries and voltages are stable, move from there.

IF you see any issues related to communications or CANbus errors or communications, check connections at the star connector for the CANbus back of the glove box.

Otherwise, you are in a forum not a dealership or STAR team, so don't look for a quick answer - mostly a whole list of things to check like tossing spit balls at the wall to see what sticks.
So be prepared for a laundry list of things to check.
 
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iTsMaht

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I'd replace the final battery before messing with anything else since it's what handles most of the electronics. Why move forward knowing already that you have a problem?
One thing at a time is how to troubleshoot/diagnose/resolve.

Once your batteries and voltages are stable, move from there..
I guess I failed to mention that the issues were present early on from purchasing and dealer was just giving me run arounds. I have the battery but I know it’s a process to dig into that aux battery replacement. Thanks for the support! I will get this done on my next week off. Happy Father’s Day.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I guess I failed to mention that the issues were present early on from purchasing and dealer was just giving me run arounds. I have the battery but I know it’s a process to dig into that aux battery replacement. Thanks for the support! I will get this done on my next week off. Happy Father’s Day.
Still, having worked in automotive for years, and IT as a network security guy and troubleshooter, I'd still do the battery - through the fender as it's easier, IMO.
Then you can tell people - naw, it's fine, good batteries, good voltage - and get that argument out of the way right off the top LOL.

My dealer will still check for codes and go from there even with no CEL. I took it to them with only codes twice, no MIL was lit - and they double-checked the codes, checked against my list of codes I had gathered and went from there. They resolved 2 issues - weird misfire and weird CANbus communications issues, with only the codes.
Some dealers are just lazy, I guess.
 
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iTsMaht

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Still, having worked in automotive for years, and IT as a network security guy and troubleshooter, I'd still do the battery - through the fender as it's easier, IMO.
Then you can tell people - naw, it's fine, good batteries, good voltage - and get that argument out of the way right off the top LOL.

My dealer will still check for codes and go from there even with no CEL. I took it to them with only codes twice, no MIL was lit - and they double-checked the codes, checked against my list of codes I had gathered and went from there. They resolved 2 issues - weird misfire and weird CANbus communications issues, with only the codes.
Some dealers are just lazy, I guess.
Dang that’s cool! Love the background sorta like mine. Yea I’ll get that done soon hopefully then I can continue to monitor like you said.

You have an awesome dealer man. I hate my dealer lol I feel so bad for people that go in there with issues and they blow them off “No CeL nO wOrKy”.

I shall report back once I get that aux battery handled.
 

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Hootbro

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I concur with what @ShadowsPapa said about getting the batteries replace.

The below voltage threshold in my opinion is the higher structured codes that need to be addressed and everything else is probably cascading off of that.
 
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iTsMaht

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I concur with what @ShadowsPapa said about getting the batteries replace.

The below voltage threshold in my opinion is the higher structured codes that need to be addressed and everything else is probably cascading off of that.
Thank you sir.
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