23 JT High Altitude - White

[TarheelJT]

Got them installed and man... what a difference. Much fuller sound overall, sound depth and front of the vehicle can actually be heard now. Needed different wiring adapters for the 4" (VGH-72-6514) vs the 3.5" speakers in the rear and had to use some small self tapping screws as the holes didnt line up (3 of the 4 - 1 OEM Screw lined up) but think it came out pretty good.

Definitely worth the $250 or so I spent on 3 sets of speakers and adapters/screws. Could have been a lot more expensive.

Like to copy this exact setup. Since you had to modify the 4" does it seal ok (sits flush) with the soundbar plastic?

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[BaneKotaKeena]

Like to copy this exact setup. Since you had to modify the 4" does it seal ok (sits flush) with the soundbar plastic?

Its pretty close to flush w/out modding. Tight fit though. The screws will bend the speaker mount tabs slightly.

 

[TarheelJT]

Its pretty close to flush w/out modding. Tight fit though. The screws will bend the speaker mount tabs slightly.

Thanks. Got my speakers on order. Looking fwd to getting them in.

 

[TarheelJT]

Got them installed and man... what a difference. Much fuller sound overall, sound depth and front of the vehicle can actually be heard now. Needed different wiring adapters for the 4" (VGH-72-6514) vs the 3.5" speakers in the rear and had to use some small self tapping screws as the holes didnt line up (3 of the 4 - 1 OEM Screw lined up) but think it came out pretty good.

Definitely worth the $250 or so I spent on 3 sets of speakers and adapters/screws. Could have been a lot more expensive.

I used the kicker plastic plate that came with the 4” and the holes lined up but not with the clips. Still seem to go flush.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Planning on installing my Teraflex 1.5" front and daystar .75" rear spacers this wknd.

Also ordered a set of Bilsteins 0-.1.5 Fronts and 0-1.0 Rears to accompany it. I dont think I am going to put the whole 1.5" in front. Just going to put the 1.0" spacer in. Looking to create a little more tire clearance up front and want to keep most of my rake for gas mileage.

Will post pics (before and after) when done. This is a temporary measure until I can get a full lift from Clayton nxt year or the year after.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Planning on installing my Teraflex 1.5" front and daystar .75" rear spacers this wknd.

Also ordered a set of Bilsteins 0-.1.5 Fronts and 0-1.0 Rears to accompany it. I dont think I am going to put the whole 1.5" in front. Just going to put the 1.0" spacer in. Looking to create a little more tire clearance up front and want to keep most of my rake for gas mileage.

Will post pics (before and after) when done. This is a temporary measure until I can get a full lift from Clayton nxt year or the year after.

Did you consider running the stock shocks while waiting for the Clayton lift?

I'd skip the Bilstein shocks since it is just temporary.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Did you consider running the stock shocks while waiting for the Clayton lift?

I'd skip the Bilstein shocks since it is just temporary.

I did and didnt order them til yesterday. However, the stock shocks are trash IMO (they arent FOX like Rubicons and Mojaves) and have more body roll and bounceyness than I want. Also with reducing the travel of them with the spacer by 1-1.5", I thought it better to put that travel back into a set of shocks for now. When I upgrade to a clayton lift, I can always resell the Bilstein's and get some $ back.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I did and didnt order them til yesterday. However, the stock shocks are trash IMO (they arent FOX like Rubicons and Mojaves) and have more body roll and bounceyness than I want. Also with reducing the travel of them with the spacer by 1-1.5", I thought it better to put that travel back into a set of shocks for now. When I upgrade to a clayton lift, I can always resell the Bilstein's and get some $ back.

That makes sense.

I don't remember the stock High Altitude shocks being that bad, but mine came off pretty quick.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

That makes sense.

I don't remember the stock High Altitude shocks being that bad, but mine came off pretty quick.

I wouldnt say they were "that bad" but I want a better riding shock for higher speed driving anyway and with losing the travel, I wondered if that would make them too abrupt so went with the Bilstein's for now. I didnt want to do shock extensions either.

I'll drop some comments on ride quality after install.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

I wouldnt say they were "that bad" but I want a better riding shock for higher speed driving anyway and with losing the travel, I wondered if that would make them too abrupt so went with the Bilstein's for now. I didnt want to do shock extensions either.

I'll drop some comments on ride quality after install.

Now U got me thinking even more... wondering if I should get a set of extended lower control arms to regain the caster angle lost with the spacer? I would think this to be a good idea if i do 1.5" and maybe not as important on just 1.0"?

Thoughts? A pair of these are around $100 shipped.

I think I install it and drive it first and if necessary, pick up a set of these and throw them on next week? See guys doing them and not doing them.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Well got most of it on (1.5" TeraFlex Front spacers and Daystar .75" Rear spacers and Bilstein 0-1.5" shocks (F) and 0-1.0" (R) shocks).

The two kits above are on as are the shocks, the Mopar longer, lower control arms aren't, as I had no tool strong enough to break the bolts loose. I should have that by mid-next week and will swap those out then.

Measurements:

Before:

FF: 37
Clearance: 3-7/8
(both sides)

RF: 38.5
Clearance: 5-1/4
(Both sides)

FDLCA Angle: 1.16
FPLCA Angle: 1.24
(both taken on top of the LCAs, just in front of flag nut where it sticks out)

Before Install

After:

FF: 38.5
Clearance: 5-1/8 (approx)
(both sides)
Increase: 1.5" (approx)

RF: 39-1/4
Clearance: 6"
(Both sides)
Increase: .75"

FDLCA Angle: 4.24 (+3.08 degrees)
FPLCA Angle: 4.10 (+2.86 degrees)
(both taken just in front of flag nut where it sticks out)

After install

After front spacers only. Trucks level but I didnt want to have it dip in the rear when towing and wanted some rake for gas mileage so added the .75" rear spacers. Pic is just for reference for anyone interested.

Overall Impressions:

Probably too early to tell yet (just did this yesterday) but, I feel it rides OK, not great (handled bumps on road better before). I think the new angles for the LCAs may be making it feel slightly more abrupt when hitting normal road imperfections. Its definitely stiffer and adding the bilsteins (0-1.5" lift shocks) is probably part of that too. When I get the new LCAs installed, the axle should shift forward a bit and those numbers should be closer, which hopefully adds back some smoothness.

I also need to adjust the drag link today to re-center the steering wheel (its sitting between 11 and 1130). So it didnt change that much but it did shift slightly to the left. Will get that done today.

I also noticed the axle appears to have shifted to the right (when standing in front of it) by 1/2" or so and that's to be expected but nothing I saw doing research beforehand mentioned this but I've done this before and know that gonna happen. So, an adjustable track bar for the front is in its future too. If anyone has any recommendations on a good adjustable Track Bar for this application, pls let me know. Not sure about the rear. Will check later. I only loosened the passenger side rear track bar bolt, not both.

The install wasn't horrible, just time consuming (took me 9 hours to do both front and rear). That included a lot of back and forth with the jack/jack stands and getting the right height to get the droop necessary to remove the springs (front and rear). That's without changing the LCAs too. If I had to do that, it would easily have been another 1-2 hours.

Front was much easier than the rear. Had to remove both rear calipers and hang them from the frame to avoid pulling too hard on the lines. Didnt have that kind of trouble up front but i did loosen up the UCAs and the track bar. I did NOT remove the track bar bolts either. I left them loose so I didnt need anybody to help get the axle Track Bar bolt back in. I did not loosen any control arms in the rear (probably should have and that may have made the spring work easier but again, I didnt have a tool w/enuf oomph.

Ultimately this is a budget friendly lift that should allow me the tire clearance I needed for the 35's I have (was rubbing the fender liner at full lock only/now its not) and to potentially take on some mild trails here and there.

A full blown lift will be put on later when and if the vehicles use calls for that.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Adding a couple more comparison pics for front/rear. Pics arent the greatest light-wise but U get the idea what the lift does for it. Before's are on the right

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Ordered the Yeti XD Adjustable Track bar and Steer Smarts Track bar brace/Sector Shaft brace over the weekend. Knew I'd need the Track bar and figured let's make this thing as bullet proof as possible in the steering dept as I can all at once.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Installed the Steer Smarts Yeti XD Track Bar today and axle is now re-centered. Measuring exactly the same on both sides from fender point reference to the edge of 4' level against each front tire.

The Yeti is beefy for sure and it was not easy getting 130lbs of torque on the bolts from the ground but its done now and steering wheel is also centered. Tracks well and straight.

Adding the LCAs tonight and hopefully that will restore some smoothness to bumps a little. Will install Steer Smarts Sector Shaft Brace and Track bar Brace this wknd or next. From there will look at rear for axle centering (if needed).

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

Added the Mopar Lower Control Arms today. Ride is better, bumps less abrupt.

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