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Add-on hitch advice

Hootbro

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That'd be worth checking into. With as money hungry as this state is I'd be shocked though.
I would think if you are buying a trailer from any establish business that deals in them, they should know the details of such things.
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I would think if you are buying a trailer from any establish business that deals in them, they should know the details of such things.
1. It is common to buy/sell across the state line here, so they know that, but I don't know how common it is to buy a trailer during a move across the state line.
2. I wouldn't be buying from any business, I'd be buying from "guy who bought a trailer and now realizes he doesn't need a trailer".

Calling a trailer business for advice could be worth a shot though.
 

David G

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I'm torn here. Best option or worst (cheapest) option. If that class IV didn't stick out that far I'd definitely go for it. I like the 1100lb tongue weight vs the 500... not that I need it.
It sticks out 2 1/2 inches and easily visible on the screen. It adds more length to the receiver which is a good thing. However, your needs are obviously different. Good luck
 

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It sticks out 2 1/2 inches and easily visible on the screen. It adds more length to the receiver which is a good thing. However, your needs are obviously different. Good luck
Sorry, that is not a good thing. You want the ball close to the vehicle, not sticking out
It's bad for sway and tongue weight.
That's another strike against it for my liking
 

David G

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Sorry, that is not a good thing. You want the ball close to the vehicle, not sticking out
It's bad for sway and tongue weight.
That's another strike against it for my liking
The longer the receiver the less chance for jackknifing when backing… if you get into that. Longer hitch receivers can provide increased clearance between the towing vehicle and the trailer, allowing for better maneuverability and access to the truck bed when towing. However, they may also reduce the tongue weight capacity, which is an important factor to consider when towing heavy loads. This is where experience counts.
 

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The longer the receiver the less chance for jackknifing when backing… if you get into that. Longer hitch receivers can provide increased clearance between the towing vehicle and the trailer, allowing for better maneuverability and access to the truck bed when towing. However, they may also reduce the tongue weight capacity, which is an important factor to consider when towing heavy loads. This is where experience counts.
I rely on the trailer design and layout for that. I keep the ball mount as close to the truck as possible.
I can easily open the tailgate with anything I have or have ever had, no problem there.

Experience? No problem. Years of it, hauling tractors, antique engines, cars, campers, farm wagons, barge boxes, farm implements including anhydrous knives, disks, chisel plows, etc.
I could back a 20' piece of equipment through a 21' barn door. We also impounded vehicles and towed for the IHP when I worked as a mechanic - you had to back things in spots people said it wasn't possible to back in to.

These days, I have to either back my 18' car hauler down my neighbor's winding, narrow, gravel driveway to park it down next to my shop (we share his drive) or pull it down and turn it around in a small space.

Short, next to the bumper.

Interesting youtube video out there on the effects of longer hitches and the use of extensions and the issues they can cause.
 

David G

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I rely on the trailer design and layout for that. I keep the ball mount as close to the truck as possible.
I can easily open the tailgate with anything I have or have ever had, no problem there.

Experience? No problem. Years of it, hauling tractors, antique engines, cars, campers, farm wagons, barge boxes, farm implements including anhydrous knives, disks, chisel plows, etc.
I could back a 20' piece of equipment through a 21' barn door. We also impounded vehicles and towed for the IHP when I worked as a mechanic - you had to back things in spots people said it wasn't possible to back in to.

These days, I have to either back my 18' car hauler down my neighbor's winding, narrow, gravel driveway to park it down next to my shop (we share his drive) or pull it down and turn it around in a small space.

Short, next to the bumper.

Interesting youtube video out there on the effects of longer hitches and the use of extensions and the issues they can cause.
I understand what you’re saying, however, we’re talking inches here, not feet. A standard 5-7.5K receiver adds 7” inches from the hitch to the end of the ball. A heavier duty receiver like the eaz-lift (commonly used for RV’s) adds 11” to the end of the ball. I commonly use this receiver hitch to tow my lighter farm tractors with my diesel dually. I also have the shorter HD receiver, but prefer the added length when using something other than my goose neck. Been doing so for years with no issues.

The 2 1/2 inch protrusion on the subject class 4 hitch is really not worth mentioning with respect to safety. Unless loaded improperly of course, as is the case with any trailer. It’s just a matter of preference. Proper loading is key with any trailer.
 

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In reading this thread I’m wondering why not just rent the trailer? I rented an enclosed double axle trailer from U Haul and towed it all the way to VA and don’t remember it being expensive. The JT probably wouldn’t be able to tow that large a trailer but UHaul does a lot of one way rentals.
Plus you wouldn’t have to worry about registering, storing etc.
 

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In reading this thread I’m wondering why not just rent the trailer? I rented an enclosed double axle trailer from U Haul and towed it all the way to VA and don’t remember it being expensive. The JT probably wouldn’t be able to tow that large a trailer but UHaul does a lot of one way rentals.
Plus you wouldn’t have to worry about registering, storing etc.
That would be fine if you don’t tow often. However, renting would be very inconvenient for me on a farm with multiple tractors. In fact, one is going into the dealer tomorrow for a recall issue. And, no, it’s not being towed with my Gladiator 😀
 
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Chasm

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However, your needs are obviously different. Good luck
My needs are very rarely towing and it being in the way the rest of the time, so I went with the smaller option. Just need a free 20 minutes on a nice day to get it mounted. Or an hour to get it into my shop on a not so nice day.
The different needs are why I knew I would upset someone on this one! :LOL: There are a few people who are very opinionated on just about any topic!

why not just rent the trailer?
I might end up going that way, but when I ran the numbers on the uhaul website, renting a utility trailer for a few days costs the same as buying a used one. Wasn't looking at enclosed. I bet that makes a big difference in purchase price! In searching for someone to ask about the cross-state issue, I did find a couple of trailer sales places locally that rent at a third of the uhaul price so that's my most likely route at the moment. I don't need to worry about one way because I'm staying centered around the same metro area, just moving from one outskirt to the complete opposite, with my work being about dead center.

If I were moving a ~year ago I could have borrowed one from a coworker, but now I'm his boss and I know a couple people would act like it was some sort of bribery.

I'll probably end up buying one though, even if I wait until I'm moved, just because a few times a year I used to max out my old truck, and the Gladiator can't come anywhere near that, so a small trailer could make up for it.
 
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Chasm

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Got it on.
Hardest part was getting the trailer plug unplugged. That thing did NOT want to let go!
Second hardest was discovering I don't have a 16mm deep well. Had to dig out my old "GearWrench" pass through set to get the bumper off.

Now I just need to get an 18" long 200lb adjustable hitch to leave locked on there so I can fit in! :LOL:

Jeep Gladiator Add-on hitch advice hitch
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