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Another AirBag question vs replacing rear springs

Radio Guy

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In other threads it mentions the air bags squeeze between the spring coils and limit their compression, that's apparently how they're intended to function. If you go too long on the bag and really work the suspension I suspect you can squish a fully inflated bag lengthwise and possibly rupture it since there would be no place for it to go.



Bill
I've had a set in for awhile now no problems yet, if I was going through it again. I would look into a set that are slightly longer the kit for our JT's is short of spring length. I read the Ram 1500 are chosen by some. Or might look at "Air-ride" the company who's air bags are blue I've had about 15 psi in them since I installed them. It did tow better "not a heavy trailer" that I'll find out soon though. I should be picking up a HD 5x12 utility trailer soon.
Funny you mentioned a spacer lift too. I've got a set of 2in for the rear already I got before the air bags.
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Blade1668

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In other threads it mentions the air bags squeeze between the spring coils and limit their compression, that's apparently how they're intended to function. If you go too long on the bag and really work the suspension I suspect you can squish a fully inflated bag lengthwise and possibly rupture it since there would be no place for it to go.
Correct from what I understand on them too. I might be able to run with lower air pressure in the bags, is my thinking. I will definitely keep it in mind. Especially if I plan on high speed "dune or washboard" running... or driving around Birmingham AL. ? much. :giggle: It's very sad to think the first time I drove though there in 1999 the same roads are S###... 23 years later no change.
 

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Bill
I've had a set in for awhile now no problems yet, if I was going through it again. I would look into a set that are slightly longer the kit for our JT's is short of spring length. I read the Ram 1500 are chosen by some. Or might look at "Air-ride" the company who's air bags are blue I've had about 15 psi in them since I installed them. It did tow better "not a heavy trailer" that I'll find out soon though. I should be picking up a HD 5x12 utility trailer soon.
Funny you mentioned a spacer lift too. I've got a set of 2in for the rear already I got before the air bags.
I need to do something soon. It's been 100 degrees here lately so almost all Gladiator work has been halted but I need to tow the first part of September and my last experience had people flashing their highs at me even though my truck really sat level with the load - barely. And since it normally has a lot of rake, that meant the lights were really shining high, not n the road.
So I'm a bit torn - love the ride these things have, but even with max tow springs under the rear, they drop a lot with only 500 pounds tongue weight. I wonder how the real max tow JTs do it since I was running their springs.

So as much as I really hate the thought of air bags - the pain of maintenance and expense, may have to.. and if their air lines are like my experiences with air shocks over the decades, I'll be resigned to adding air every other week. I could never get air shocks to hold the minimum 20 psi - a week or two later even with all new lines and seals, they were down to almost nothing in 2 to 4 weeks. Maybe use flexible brake hose and double flare fittings. Air shock and bag air lines suck.

Add to all of this, I do want to get the truck about 1" higher, like my 2020 was but not lose the great ride and handling so I may be looking at spacers again, too.
The 100 pounds for the winch and winch plate (80 plus 20 for the plate) and the added 50+ pounds for the bumper dropped the truck 1/2" with the Rubicon springs last time around.
I gained 1" with the springs, lost 1/2" when I put the bumper and winch on, then added .75" spacers to bring it back up for a net gain of roughly 1.25 on the front.
I told my wife that if I add a blade on the front she's really gonna drop so I have to figure that out, too.

And in Iowa cold - I could possibly count on the bags blowing out every couple of winters.
 

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I need to do something soon. It's been 100 degrees here lately so almost all Gladiator work has been halted but I need to tow the first part of September and my last experience had people flashing their highs at me even though my truck really sat level with the load - barely. And since it normally has a lot of rake, that meant the lights were really shining high, not n the road.
So I'm a bit torn - love the ride these things have, but even with max tow springs under the rear, they drop a lot with only 500 pounds tongue weight. I wonder how the real max tow JTs do it since I was running their springs.

So as much as I really hate the thought of air bags - the pain of maintenance and expense, may have to.. and if their air lines are like my experiences with air shocks over the decades, I'll be resigned to adding air every other week. I could never get air shocks to hold the minimum 20 psi - a week or two later even with all new lines and seals, they were down to almost nothing in 2 to 4 weeks. Maybe use flexible brake hose and double flare fittings. Air shock and bag air lines suck.

Add to all of this, I do want to get the truck about 1" higher, like my 2020 was but not lose the great ride and handling so I may be looking at spacers again, too.
The 100 pounds for the winch and winch plate (80 plus 20 for the plate) and the added 50+ pounds for the bumper dropped the truck 1/2" with the Rubicon springs last time around.
I gained 1" with the springs, lost 1/2" when I put the bumper and winch on, then added .75" spacers to bring it back up for a net gain of roughly 1.25 on the front.
I told my wife that if I add a blade on the front she's really gonna drop so I have to figure that out, too.

And in Iowa cold - I could possibly count on the bags blowing out every couple of winters.
Bill you have a idea of how much crap is in my Max-Tow so I'll plug in a few pics. The air bags have 14 psi air. Probably around 900 lbs load (others to note). I need to get weight of my JT again and down load then do the same empty. The scale I used in past went out of service.
I remember dang air shocks always needing checked and reiflated, that was a concerned on air bags i had too. I've so far not had any issues with leaking down.

Oh.. Damn I feel you on the heat. Rainy few days and looking at temp it's 97 right now with all the humidity from the rain.
A big reason I've not started to install the Rubicon locker and few other projects. I got a brand new clam shell bearing puller few days ago for it and Mopar wires for it.... still waiting on install kit.... Just in case.
Jeep Gladiator Another AirBag question vs replacing rear springs 20220807_105545
Jeep Gladiator Another AirBag question vs replacing rear springs 20220807_105607
Jeep Gladiator Another AirBag question vs replacing rear springs 20220807_105628

Note: the factory locker plug hole is not drilled for it on standard axles. So that's going to be fun. I'm thinking about installing in diff cover.
 

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So as much as I really hate the thought of air bags - the pain of maintenance and expense, may have to.. and if their air lines are like my experiences with air shocks over the decades, I'll be resigned to adding air every other week. I could never get air shocks to hold the minimum 20 psi - a week or two later even with all new lines and seals, they were down to almost nothing in 2 to 4 weeks. Maybe use flexible brake hose and double flare fittings. Air shock and bag air lines suck.
It seems like the vast majority of people running air bags have no problems. They are cheap at about $100, you install yourself in an hour or two and I don't know of any specific maintenance they need.

When you don't need the lift just run about 5psi to keep the bag puffed out and your truck will feel completely normal. When you need lift and stiffness stick 20-25PSI in and go. Sounds like a perfect solution and that's why I got um and I've had no issues yet.
 

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Bill you have a idea of how much crap is in my Max-Tow so I'll plug in a few pics. The air bags have 14 psi air. Probably around 900 lbs load (others to note). I need to get weight of my JT again and down load then do the same empty. The scale I used in past went out of service.
I remember dang air shocks always needing checked and reiflated, that was a concerned on air bags i had too. I've so far not had any issues with leaking down.

Oh.. Damn I feel you on the heat. Rainy few days and looking at temp it's 97 right now with all the humidity from the rain.
A big reason I've not started to install the Rubicon locker and few other projects. I got a brand new clam shell bearing puller few days ago for it and Mopar wires for it.... still waiting on install kit.... Just in case.
20220807_105545.jpg
20220807_105607.jpg
20220807_105628.jpg

Note: the factory locker plug hole is not drilled for it on standard axles. So that's going to be fun. I'm thinking about installing in diff cover.
Helpful as always.

Yeah, I'd be thinking about using the cover as a way to run the harness out as well. I can drill cast but I like having it out and on the table of my tiny mill or a drill press - not while it's under a truck.

I think air bags are in my future from what I'm reading here and around.
 

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Bill, That help you out some?
Helpful as always.

Yeah, I'd be thinking about using the cover as a way to run the harness out as well. I can drill cast but I like having it out and on the table of my tiny mill or a drill press - not while it's under a truck.

I think air bags are in my future from what I'm reading here and around.
A cover is definitely cheaper than a axle housing too. :like: and there is one on the busted one I got.
 

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It seems like the vast majority of people running air bags have no problems. They are cheap at about $100, you install yourself in an hour or two and I don't know of any specific maintenance they need.

When you don't need the lift just run about 5psi to keep the bag puffed out and your truck will feel completely normal. When you need lift and stiffness stick 20-25PSI in and go. Sounds like a perfect solution and that's why I got um and I've had no issues yet.
I like the cost - cheap. Even spacers cost a pretty penny for what they do.
I assume that until or unless I figure some sort of small compressor out, I could use a foot pump to air up and down. Normally I'd hook up at home and leave things until I got back but sometimes. I drop the trailer at a show and drive back and forth until I load up to come back.
That low a pressure would be nothing on a small inexpensive foot pump.

Thanks for the info and your insight on things like not seeing a lot of trouble and so on.
For the cheap price, even if there was some inconvenience, it's a small price.

Bill, That help you out some?

A cover is definitely cheaper than a axle housing too. :like: and there is one on the busted one I got.
Yeah, your loaded truck and experiences, and Radio Guy's help, along with the info/comments of others - definitely helpful.

At this point I think I'll put in the Daystar spacers I have, and air bags to handle the load, prevent sagging with the tongue weight (to keep my lights out of the eyes of others) it would be a very fast, simple and inexpensive solution. If it works out, I'd leave it that way

I may still put the Rubicon springs up front due to the heavy winch and bumper but for the rear, you guys have helped a lot.
Triple likes for all.
The best part - after my doc appointments, my wife wants to know any time I'm under the truck or doing heavy lifting. I think their concern has her nervous. I won't have to take the rear end apart for this mod - just enough to get 3/4" spacers and air bags in.

Now to pick the right air bags and get something ordered. I've only ever seen one type mentioned there - that I recall..............but then my memory sucks.
 

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A small 12v air compressor is enough to fill air bags in my experience. I put the valves by license plate... I thought about using them to hold the plate on.
 

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Talk to @FR33DOM he tows with a JT and has airbags. I think he was all over the west with his. On 37s no less.


The problem is most of those other springs add a little bit of lift, which then changes geometry.
Clayton suggested that I do their 1.5" level kit in the front and add 2.5" springs in the back.

I am trying to avoid doing something, that then requires something else, which then requires something else, etc.

So the AirBags sounded like an easier option.
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