Anyone else wonder if this would work for a Gladiator? And yes its Aluminum w/ dual swingout.

[Blade1668]

I’m super curious, and confused, as to the cons of the swing-outs. I’m in no way disagreeing with anyone but I had a swing out on my 2015 f150 and loved it, no issues whatsoever. And line another member mentioned, you see Tacos rubbing them. What is it about our trucks that make these maybe not a great idea? Thus is my first Jeep so still learning and trying to be educated.

One of the "negatives" for that on back of a JT is the type of springs and then adding a "lever" further past coil springs mounting points. Think of the children's park bouncing rocking horse. The F150 used leaf springs in the rear if I'm not mistaken, with leaf springs the springs will resist the bouncing effects more. I've done quite a few miles towing trailers with my JT (Max-Tow) and it would be on bump stops quite often. Something I noticed is a rocking forward and back bouncing. The trailers weight was always under 5000 lbs most often 1000-1700 lbs. with tongue weight in range of 100-350 lbs. Something you can try is add all the weight of what you are thinking about hanging off of a swing out rack then rapidly setting that on and off the (open) tailgate and watch the suspension load up and release.
All of my comment is my opinion / SWAG and experience. It's worth every penny you paid for it.... nothing. But something to think about.
Notice above post of mine, I have though about adding one too. I have them on my XJ and LJ.

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[PuddleJumper]

I’m super curious, and confused, as to the cons of the swing-outs. I’m in no way disagreeing with anyone but I had a swing out on my 2015 f150 and loved it, no issues whatsoever. And line another member mentioned, you see Tacos rubbing them. What is it about our trucks that make these maybe not a great idea? Thus is my first Jeep so still learning and trying to be educated.

Yeah sure thing man. So the main thing that separates from your standard F150 and Taco is gonna be the fact we have parallel 4 link coil sprung rear suspension instead of leaf springs like the aforementioned. Both have strong points and weak points. With leaf springs, you get 2 pivot points on each side of the frame with the axle sitting sitting somewhat centered (some OE set it a little forward or a little back) under those two pivot points with the leaf as the mediator. The advantages of this is that it weight distributes quite nicely. you can put a bit of weight all at the tail end of the truck and the leafs will to a great job (if rated properly) of mitigating the leverage imposed. This why leafs are prominent in vehicle with higher payload capacities. Leafs are alos capable of generally taking hella more abuse as the axles is only held by said leaf springs. They are designed to bend. But that's about where the plus sides end. Leaf springs are prone to issues like, axle wrap, deflection, and W'ing.

Axle wrap - under hard braking and acceleration, leaf springs can bow forward or backwards especially if under rated or fatigued. this causes your axle pinion to dive or lurch and heavily stresses the drive shaft, u-joints, and pinion bearing.

Deflection - As leaf sprung vehicles are only held by said springs, they have no track bar. Why they don't necessarily need one under normal condition. heavy use like offroading, and more. The axle can "deflect" side to side. This makes the vehicle unstable and also stresses pinion and driveshaft.

W'ing - this where under heavy use or over load the springs lose bow shape and "w". this compounds/introduces the issues above.


Now Parallel 4 link, not to be confused with Triangulated 4 link. Parallel is far firmer and has more initial bind plus makes use of a Panhard/Track bar. This is a very stable and controlled setup for the rear. This setup will handle better in most conditions and uses as well as ride better. But, due to basic mechanical leverage. The further you move weight to the rear of the truck, the further you get from the fulcrum point and the spring point. This means you add leverage that weight can impose the further you move it back. So weight distribution is very important in running this setup.


To summarize both are tried and tested but what works for you depends on use case. In my personal opinion, 4 link has to many benefits to give up for weight management. Because I go fast and both can be ruined with to much weight if fast is the goal. And unloaded leaf is a bit ass offroad in my experience. On my Jeep I keep the spare as far forward as possible. Hope this helps.

 

[MSFTMatt]

Thanks guys, it really does! I’m still on the fence and deciding about getting a swing out again and the information I get in this forum is super beneficial for me in making an educated decision for my uses and goals. Thanks!

 

[PuddleJumper]

Thanks guys, it really does! I’m still on the fence and deciding about getting a swing out again and the information I get in this forum is super beneficial for me in making an educated decision for my uses and goals. Thanks!

As long as your not expecting stock Mojave ride quality and you respring the rear properly. A swingout on your gladiator will be just fine, if not unnoticeable.

 

[kjens2014]

It only took one bad stuck a few years ago with the rear end buried (in what looked like a dark spot in the field) with a bonus of one tire rolled off the rim, three hours of digging to get the spare out and on. Ever since I look for some where else to keep my spare.

You've got heavy clay there too, don't you? That stuff is no joke to dig through by hand.

 

[MSFTMatt]

As long as your not expecting stock Mojave ride quality and you respring the rear properly. A swingout on your gladiator will be just fine, if not unnoticeable.

I’ve got a Rubicon and did the Clayton 2.5” Overland with the HD springs and Falcon sp3.3’s in anticipation of adding weight to the rear in one form or another. Figured better to beef up now then deal with it later.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I’ve got a Rubicon and did the Clayton 2.5” Overland with the HD springs and Falcon sp3.3’s in anticipation of adding weight to the rear in one form or another. Figured better to beef up now then deal with it later.

sounds all set to me. send it

 

[Freems]

You've got heavy clay there too, don't you? That stuff is no joke to dig through by hand.

Yep, Snake River river bottom style…got it home, left it parked for two days over the sprinkler going WFO.

 

[kjens2014]

Yep, Snake River river bottom style…got it home, left it parked for two days over the sprinkler going WFO.

This is why I prefer rocks to mud. We have that same mud in eastern Wa at my dads place. Stuff will eat a tractor.

 

[Sweetums]

Give me Moab slickrock any day. I learned years ago that mud is about 5 minutes of fun and 5 years of sh!t falling in your face every time you change the oil.

 

[NY JT]

JCR Offroad makes one for the Gladiator:
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/...MIjY7Rv_achwMVSjfUAR1WYQRBEAQYBSABEgLIh_D_BwE

These have a wait time of 20-40 days,

 

[kjens2014]

Give me Moab slickrock any day. I learned years ago that mud is about 5 minutes of fun and 5 years of sh!t falling in your face every time you change the oil.

Truth

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