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breaking in gears and wildwood lightweight brakes

TheSolarWizard

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I apologize if this has been covered. I just placed an order for a Dana 60/80 combo so these are pretty specific asks id think.

I just spoke to my chosen axle builder and im definitely excited but my bank likely believes my identity has been stolen at this point

1) he recommended I lock the front hubs and just drive around in 4wd to build some heat in the gears as I brake in the rear, go ahead and change the fluid after following procedures for 500 miles and that should suffice and also strongly recommend I roll around hubs locked for at least 100 miles once a month thereafter to avoid seals drying out and causing a leak. Ive never heard that last part before any input there?

2) he recommended I only run Lucas non synthetic 85w-140 or 75w-140 Amsoil. they build axles for the military and they all run the Lucas. the axles ship dry. any thoughts on initial break in choice and then fill going forward? the jeep will be exposed to super hot deserts and hi altitude super cold. no towing of any significance.

3) just before we got off the phone he offered a solid upgrade to lightweight brakes to help offset some of the monster axle weight, eliminated the mushy pedal one ton brakes typically exhibit and dramatically improve performance so I went ahead and did it.

In my track days upgrading brakes meant a series of stops so I understand the concept but I don't understand if doing so in this application is impacted at all by the fact that I am also braking in gears concurrently.


tossing in a pic because the scale here is almost laughable

Jeep Gladiator breaking in gears and wildwood lightweight brakes IMG_3620
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Lunentucker

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If your builder is reputable, and more importantly, if they are the ones who are warrantying the work, then I would do the break in and fluids to their exact advisements.
I can see needing to put the vehicle in 4wd to break in the front gears before they're heavily relied upon on trails, but I don't know about riding around on dry pavement in 4x4 for 100 miles.
I certainly wouldn't do the full 100 in one shot. Maybe in 10ths.
 

mrmo

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If you have lock out hubs as most tons have, then locking them will engage the axle-hub and result in spinning the gears and internals. You do not put it in 4wd or you will tear it up on dry pavement. Locked hubs will be ok, prob get weird tire wear and some noise. I certainly wouldnt run it at high speeds until some break-in is completed. Short runs, 20-30 miles w a cool down period, then do it again, etc until you get a few hundred miles on them. Change gear fluid, and you are good
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