CB radio is dead. Stop installing them and get a VHF/UHF instead!!!

[Oscar Indy]

Ok few questions.

I was looking over your first option suggestion. I like that it can communicate with the "store bought" hunting walkie talkies. But the higher channels it can only monitor, correct?

I have 3m peltor litecom plus communication for my tree and crane work, which apparently runs on a 400 something frequency (which I didn't realize requires a license till now). It would be cool for me to get a radio that can receive and transmit on that frequency. The option you listed can only receive it, I think.

On the same site there is UV-82HP radio that can receive and transmit to the same frequency as my Peltor, but can't connect to the "store bought" walkie talkies :-(. I can also get it in a colored case, which is cool.

What frequency range is used mostly in the offroading these days?

Technically they are the same radio. The uv82hp is what I have. Actually mine is a gt5tp same radio different case.
What differs is the programming.
GMRS and FRS use the same frequencies and are easily programmed into any of these handhelds it's just the gmrsv1 is turn key where the others require cheap easy programming via the keypad or threw a Windows software. I use chirp it's free but you need a 10 dollar cable.

Referencing the above chart you can see the main difference between FRS and GMRS is power. GMRS gets a couple more repeater frequencies but let's ignore those for the sake of simplicity.
The radio I initially linked has a low power setting at the FRS numbers where the uv82 and all the other bafengs are over it at 1 watt.

I'm told with chirp you can reprogram the gmrsv1 to operate on any frequencies in the VHF UHF range. FRS is UHF And MURS is VHF

As far as what group runs what freq it's kind of a crap shoot. One group I ride with a bunch are ham and they use 146.460 which I'm not liscensed for which means I'm in listen only mode


Most of them are on the FRS frequencies tho Since buy in is so cheap. Since all my radios are over the power limit for FRS I grabbed a GMRS license and also use MURS. The GMRS is nice compared to ham as I don't have to take a stupid test and it's good for the whole family.
Power level is something that is nearly impossible for someone to prove. 1 watt vs half watt isn't going to make much difference for trail coms. And that's assuming the radio performs like it indicates ( most are under their published spec)

Id get the normal one and program it yourself. Get a GMRS license. Takes 2 min on their portal and go nuts. If everyone in the group owns a ham just finger jam whatever frequency they are running in and enjoy. Or they can punch in any of the GMRS frequencies too.

If you wanna avoid people on the same channel but not with you takes 2 sec to punch in a CTCs code which is what the bubble pack radios call a privacy tone.

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[Oscar Indy]

Ha. That was a stress ball I got at a convention. Tossed it on the dash and JT never left. People asked why I had a rubber chicken never had a good story so I would just wink and let it go.

 

[Climbhigh]

Technically they are the same radio. The uv82hp is what I have. Actually mine is a gt5tp same radio different case.
What differs is the programming.
GMRS and FRS use the same frequencies and are easily programmed into any of these handhelds it's just the gmrsv1 is turn key where the others require cheap easy programming via the keypad or threw a Windows software. I use chirp it's free but you need a 10 dollar cable.

Referencing the above chart you can see the main difference between FRS and GMRS is power. GMRS gets a couple more repeater frequencies but let's ignore those for the sake of simplicity.
The radio I initially linked has a low power setting at the FRS numbers where the uv82 and all the other bafengs are over it at 1 watt.

I'm told with chirp you can reprogram the gmrsv1 to operate on any frequencies in the VHF UHF range. FRS is UHF And MURS is VHF

As far as what group runs what freq it's kind of a crap shoot. One group I ride with a bunch are ham and they use 146.460 which I'm not liscensed for which means I'm in listen only mode


Most of them are on the FRS frequencies tho Since buy in is so cheap. Since all my radios are over the power limit for FRS I grabbed a GMRS license and also use MURS. The GMRS is nice compared to ham as I don't have to take a stupid test and it's good for the whole family.
Power level is something that is nearly impossible for someone to prove. 1 watt vs half watt isn't going to make much difference for trail coms. And that's assuming the radio performs like it indicates ( most are under their published spec)

Id get the normal one and program it yourself. Get a GMRS license. Takes 2 min on their portal and go nuts. If everyone in the group owns a ham just finger jam whatever frequency they are running in and enjoy. Or they can punch in any of the GMRS frequencies too.

If you wanna avoid people on the same channel but not with you takes 2 sec to punch in a CTCs code which is what the bubble pack radios call a privacy tone.

Thanks for the information. If I can program in the gmrs etc, I'll probably just get the UV-82HP one. Because I'll use it more with crane ops versus offloading etc. I guess I better check into getting a license too. I just always assumed it was for higher powered units...not for headsets and relative low range radios

 

[Oscar Indy]

So a note on programming.
Let's make this super simple.

https://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/wiki/Home
Chirp is the go to for most radios. Some come with a bundled software but it's usually cumbersome. Chirp supports copy paste and has the ability to change every setting in the system.
You will need a cable. For most the Baofengs they use a Kenwood style 2 pin connector.
BTECH PC03 FTDI Genuine USB Programming Cable for BTECH, BaoFeng, Kenwood, and AnyTone Radio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HUB0ONK/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_-gHlEbETXDWQ1
These can be had cheaper but the chip in them is usually bootleg and may cause driver issues. My cable was $10 and worked perfectly but others have had to search for the right driver to make it work. This one from Baofengs tech is legit as they are the primary importer in the US so you won't get bootleg stuff from them.

So once you have everything in place you simply open chirp.
Connect the radio.
Click pull from radio and the system pulls in everything that's currently loaded. Save this file as it's the default and if anything ever goes wonky loading this will get it fixed.
Now you can modify to your hearts content.
Type in whatever frequencies you want to use or upload from a known source (more in next paragraph) in Excel file. Once it's all in just hit load to radio and you are programmed.

As far as loading frequencies just grab the csv file here and save to your computer.
https://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/repository/revisions/dd3f5ade0881
Hit file and then import in chirp.
Select file.
Select all when it opens
Then it will import all the FRS/GMRS and MURS into your radio. Hit upload and you are golden.
It sounds to easy but it really is that simple to be up and running.

If youwant to be super cheap like me you can get a radio and cable for 30 bucks here. https://www.radioddity.com/collecti...ng-uv-5r-plus-two-way-radio-programming-cable
I've actually ordered all my stuff from radiooddity over the years with great luck. It is slow boat from china on most of it so if you are okay with that I recommend them.
They have some nice bundles too and constantly running a sale of some sort.
They also have a selection of FRS only radios that are super cheap too. No experience with them tho.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Thanks for the information. If I can program in the gmrs etc, I'll probably just get the UV-82HP one. Because I'll use it more with crane ops versus offloading etc. I guess I better check into getting a license too. I just always assumed it was for higher powered units...not for headsets and relative low range radios

It's actually based off the frequencies you use. If it's work related that usually falls under the employer having a liscense for that frequency. Which legally means it should be a part 90 certified radio but that's another one of those gray areas.

If you want pm me the frequency and what company and where you are and I can see if they have a liscense to be on it already and you'll know.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Here is a good pic of the JeepUniq mount from earlier. I used one of these in my JK wand it held the radio tight for SAR and Race use so it'll easily work for normal off-road stuff. They also have ball mount options for those of you who are running things like 67 designs or CMM ball mounts.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Bonus info if you want it.

Last bit info to add to this thread is what some refer to as privacy tones.

On the bubble pack FRS radios these are marketed as additional channels but they are not real channels.

What they are is a tone that's transmitted with your voice. In the Baofeng radios these are referred to as CTCSS (Continuous Tone-Coded Squelch System) and the link below will list the cross over to most the bubble pack radios tone to CTCSS tone.

Privacy tone is kind of a misnomer. These actually just limit what signals will break thru the squelch on the radio. For example if you set a receive tone aka R-CTCSS then only radios that are transmitting (T-CTCSS) will be able to break your radios squelch.

So if you are on a freq and there is other people also using that channel you can set a CTCSS code on all your radios and you will never hear that other transmission. They will hear you tho which is the error in the name of privacy tone. Your transmission will go out on the channel so if someone doesn't have a CTCSS tone set they will hear everything on that channel but when they transmit it will only reach other non CTCSS set radios.

This is all unnecessary but a feature you will never get on CB. When we ran CB we always had to fight to find a good channel then as we convoyed to a trail we would always need to change channels to find one that wasn't getting constant static or interference from a loud mouth trucker or someone being annoying. This always ended up with someone missing the channel change and being out of coms.
When we switched to these radios I'd just pick a random channel and set everyone to the same CTCSS tones and never had to fight channels again.


Here's a better link on tones.
https://henryranch.net/radio-communication/frs-radio-privacy-tone-list/

 

[WhatExit?]

Your first option would be perfect for just starting out. I think what I will do is run an antenna in the factory location to receive CB, AM, and FM radio. This will go to the splitter - one to the AM/FM radio and the other to a discrete CB base to hide and only have the mic with controls mounted. By doing this I won't be adding additional antennas, have a minimal impact on interior space, and can have a handheld (such as your recommendation) to cover all bases. I like where this is going.... Great thread

I'm convinced the east coast is slow to catch up. I know no one that is using a ham setup. It's either CB or walkie-talkie.

I'm interested in this! Can you post pics & links to the splitter and antenna?

 

[Oscar Indy]

Pretty sure that's not a feasible build at least in a cost effective way. CB antennas are heavy and thick. The sheet metal in this area is thin.

Don't forget that once you jump to a mounted radio you are past skirting the line on a liscense. The power of mobile radios exceeds the power level of FRS and you can't have a detached antenna so you would "need" a GMRS license or take the ham test and use the amateur radio frequencies.

To see if it works for you I'd highly recommend just a handheld with a good antenna and run that until you NEED TO UPGRADE. If you desire the handheld mic like the CB has a lapel mic plugged into the handheld is basically the same. You could get a magnet mount or mobile antenna that is only 3-4 inches tall and put the handheld in the console and just have the mic for when you need radio coms. I did this I the Tacoma because the metal roof limited my range and now the only reason I have a mobile unit in the Jeep is because I needed more than the 2 channel monitor and reply that the handheld had. My truck is pits for multiple teams and being able to hear them coming in and what they need drove the need for a mobile unit. I also operate on several different business frequencies that different teams have purchased a liscense for so the expanded capability and power is why I went with a mobile unit in addition to my handhelds.

Part of the beauty of FM modulation is you don't need the horrendous CB antenna that gets caught on everything and despite some good mounts none are ideal for Jeep use.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Good for 50 watts and has incredibly clear signal.

This is not necessary for trail coms. But on this setup I have had clear coms with another similar radio 56 miles away on low power or 10 watts. It was straight across desert and the other guy was slightly elevated when we tested it. Didn't realize I was on low power or I would have pushed it further. A handheld at 4 watts won't do this but that is mostly the antenna. Seriously whatever handheld you get... Get a good aftermarket antenna. The Nagoya 701 or 771 is a great antenna just be sure to buy from a reputable source. In my experience in the cheap handheld department the antenna is more important than the actual radio.

 

[spazzyfry123]

I'm interested in this! Can you post pics & links to the splitter and antenna?

Picture stolen from @jimhart69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078XY7D49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Oscar Indy]

How is that going to transmit FM? I could see this maybe working with one or the other but the even answers in the comment sthey don't know if it will work with ham which means they don't know if it's is VHF UHF compatible.

I'm sure it works on receive fine but transmit is the issue.

 

[spazzyfry123]

How is that going to transmit FM? I could see this maybe working with one or the other but the even answers in the comment sthey don't know if it will work with ham which means they don't know if it's is VHF UHF compatible.

I'm sure it works on receive fine but transmit is the issue.

Sorry. This cluttering up the thread. That was in response to him.

That is intended to combine the features of the existing OEM antenna and CB. My intention is to have my CB (this option and unrelated to the thread) and then use something else for what this thread is actually about. Reality is that (for now) CB must still be used out this way. It's inverse from the west; CB is the majority, not the minority, and a must have. I'm hoping to have another option and use the info in here to have for the minority situations.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Sorry. This cluttering up the thread. That was in response to him.

That is intended to combine the features of the existing OEM antenna and CB. My intention is to have my CB (this option and unrelated to the thread) and then use something else for what this thread is actually about. Reality is that (for now) CB must still be used out this way. It's inverse from the west; CB is the majority, not the minority, and a must have. I'm hoping to have another option and use the info in here to have for the minority situations.

Aww I miss understood. I thought we were looking for a vhf cb combo.

 

[spazzyfry123]

Aww I miss understood. I thought we were looking for a vhf cb combo.

Now if this can be an option, I am IN. I have a heavy emphasis on keeping things simple, so if I can consolidate and multi-purpose like gear I get stoked.

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