Death Wobble immediately after changing rims/tires

[svrenema]

I was gifted wheels and tires (255/75/17 + Procomp 6069 rims - low miles) from another Jeep Gladiator, an Overland model.

I replaced my stock 21’ Mojave 285/70/17+Stock Mojave rims with the above set up. During my first trip and within 15 minutes and over 65+ MPH, I experienced the death wobble after hitting a small bump.

I assume something’s not copacetic with the rim and tire replacement and my Mojave as this has never happened before. Can anyone confirm this or guess why?

My theory is the Procomp’s having a -6mm offset vs the stock rims 0 offset causing the death wobble. Could this be the case? Does it need an alignment or something done to the drag link, or do these rims simply not work particularly on the Mojave but oddly an Overland model?

Thanks!

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[Nobody]

Have the tires balanced and are they centered rims? i.e. did you get the centering ring that goes on the hub?

 

[svrenema]

Have the tires balanced and are they centered rims? i.e. did you get the centering ring that goes on the hub?

The tires were balanced on rode perfect on the previous Gladiator they were on. And yes I put the center ring cap that came with the pro comps 6069’s. Not sure what you mean by centered rims? They have a -6mm offset and I believe a 4.75 backspace.

 

[Free2roam]

Soooo....I had a lift out on my Gladiator. I went from stock rims +44 to Icon Rebound Pros -6. Now it didn't happen right away. But after 7k miles +- I started to get a shimmy on the driver's side. Had it realigned a couple times. It got it close. Eventually I believe that the -6 offset increasing the width of the stance. Causing the stock tie rod and drag link to wear prematurely. Had death wobble a few times. Eventually I upgraded the steering with 2.5 ton Fusion 4x4 and the fox ATS stabilizer. WaaaBaaam. Rock solid and super drivable. Where I would go over over overpass joints and it would be sketchy. Now is rock solid and I have no complaints.

 

[ross neill]

It’s probably has nothing to do with tires and rims check all of the joints in the suspension any play will cause death wobble

 

[kevman65]

Before you get all dirty and sweaty, check the air pressure in the tires.

If they're above 36 psi, take them down to 32 psi and drive it again.

 

[Reddout99]

Did you have them balanced before installing them? Perhaps a weight fell off.
I think the centering ring nobody as referring to is called a "hubcentric ring" . Assures the wheel's opening matched the 71.5mm hub diameter on the JTs

 

[svrenema]

Did you have them balanced before installing them? Perhaps a weight fell off.
I think the centering ring nobody as referring to is called a "hubcentric ring" . Assures the wheel's opening matched the 71.5mm hub diameter on the JTs

Yeah they were balanced, though possible a weight came off but no issues with the previous Gladiator it was on. Hubcentric ring was on.

All joints in the suspension I checked today and real tight. I went back to my original rims and tires, drove about 40 miles with no issues. So strange.

 

[svrenema]

It’s probably has nothing to do with tires and rims check all of the joints in the suspension any play will cause death wobble

Everything tip top and tight from drag link, to tie rode, stabilizer etc.

Went back to OG tires and rims and drove the same route, no issues for over 40 miles. So weird.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

People don't realize all of the geometry being changed putting on different wheels - moving things out, different tire diameters, changing the tire diameter - all at the same time.
The result is a change in the location where the line through the steering axis intersects the line through the centerline of the tire.
The result can be WOBBLE.
At times, a change in toe may be needed - but it's an experiment. Other times the change is drastic enough the stock system just can't handle it.
It's the result of throwing on parts either for appearance (or need in the case of tires/tire diameter) Making the centerline of the tire stick out farther is a crazy increase in loading of the steering system, and is often the cause of wobble.

Weird? No. It's science, geometry, physics.

 

[Rocksalt]

People don't realize all of the geometry being changed putting on different wheels - moving things out, different tire diameters, changing the tire diameter - all at the same time.
The result is a change in the location where the line through the steering axis intersects the line through the centerline of the tire.
The result can be WOBBLE.
At times, a change in toe may be needed - but it's an experiment. Other times the change is drastic enough the stock system just can't handle it.
It's the result of throwing on parts either for appearance (or need in the case of tires/tire diameter) Making the centerline of the tire stick out farther is a crazy increase in loading of the steering system, and is often the cause of wobble.

Weird? No. It's science, geometry, physics.

while what you say is no doubt a factor, many stock, non modified gladiators and wrangler owners have also experienced death wobble.

 

[DankjeeP]

The wheels and tires you got are garbage,

I was gifted wheels and tires (255/75/17 + Procomp 6069 rims - low miles) from another Jeep Gladiator, an Overland model.

I replaced my stock 21’ Mojave 285/70/17+Stock Mojave rims with the above set up. During my first trip and within 15 minutes and over 65+ MPH, I experienced the death wobble after hitting a small bump.

I assume something’s not copacetic with the rim and tire replacement and my Mojave as this has never happened before. Can anyone confirm this or guess why?

My theory is the Procomp’s having a -6mm offset vs the stock rims 0 offset causing the death wobble. Could this be the case? Does it need an alignment or something done to the drag link, or do these rims simply not work particularly on the Mojave but oddly an Overland model?

Thanks!

Obviously you got garbage wheels and tires. DUH
Tires get out of round if they are stationary.
Trash the tires, keep the wheels if you like them.

 

[DankjeeP]

while what you say is no doubt a factor, many stock, non modified gladiators and wrangler owners have also experienced death wobble.

A total Non sequitur............................the tires you bought are garbage,
Many things lead to death wobble but.phhbbthbtbtbtpht...

 

[Reddout99]

If they weren't, I would have them road-force balanced. Maybe even try a different shop. If your original setup didn't produce the same result, then, I believe, it has to be the tire/wheel setup you have.
I had a flat repaired a few moths ago and would get some shimmy at 45mph. I took it to a different shop and they rebalanced it and the shimmy went away

 

[ShadowsPapa]

while what you say is no doubt a factor, many stock, non modified gladiators and wrangler owners have also experienced death wobble.

Yeah but there's still a reason for those........... people today aren't as into detail as they were in the past - if they ever were.
And it's really all but impossible to convey to non-experienced what play is, how much is too much and so on.

It's like a friend (former supervisor at a big automotive parts manufacturing plant in IL) used to say - "just because it says "professional grade" on the box doesn't make you one."

Just because you have wrenches and have swapped out many dozens of parts over the years doesn't mean there's an understanding of how things all must work together on a vehicle that's already on the edge. (I'll never understand the "frog" look of tires that are only half under the fenders on a pickup. There's a whole lot of those around here, Chevy and Ford pickups with silly looking tires that stick out farther than they tuck under - what is the point? A south-side Chicago look? No way I'd want to drive those things at any speed and have someone pull out in front of me.)
Once you go outside of the original geometry, things are much more likely to go south.(don't know where that saying came from - it's almost insulting to our southern states) Didn't say "they will" - but the odds are better.

Death wobble has been a thing since at least the late 1950s - Ford, Chevy, Mack, Kenworth, and more.

If they weren't, I would have them road-force balanced. Maybe even try a different shop. If your original setup didn't produce the same result, then, I believe, it has to be the tire/wheel setup you have.
I had a flat repaired a few moths ago and would get some shimmy at 45mph. I took it to a different shop and they rebalanced it and the shimmy went away

Absolutely.
And where did the new wheels with different backset, etc. make the scrub radius end up?
I've not done the math on this - but I see different specs here, and the wrong scrub radius can absolutely introduce wobble. I've posted the details on how and why that happens elsewhere here. It's a very real thing once you go playing with tire poke, wheel dimensions, tire sizes and such.

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