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Factory spring mystery

jjdustr340

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So, I’ve got an 80A that I purchased new with 12 miles on it. I’ve been thinking about getting Rubi take offs to give it a little boost, mainly to help with the rake. Anyways, I climbed under today to see which springs I have, and I’m utterly confused! The drivers rear spring is part number 68506117AA, which in all my searches shows as a front spring! What the heck is going on with my JT?
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Don't feel bad. I'm still trying to figure out my Willys springs. My front right is 6342AA and my front right is 7795AA. This does not even come close to what stock spring numbers are on Sports and Rubicons. My rears have no tags at all.
 
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jjdustr340

jjdustr340

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Don't feel bad. I'm still trying to figure out my Willys springs. My front right is 6342AA and my front right is 7795AA. This does not even come close to what stock spring numbers are on Sports and Rubicons. My rears have no tags at all.
My fronts check out as front springs, passenger rear has no tag, but that driver rear listed as a front spring has me so confused
 

ShadowsPapa

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Be aware that "Rubi take-offs" can mean multiple numbers and rates. If you get springs from a lighter Rubicon without all the options they won't give as much lift as springs from a full loaded to the hilt Rubicon with heavier springs.
And the lighter Rubicon springs under a heavier truck of another level won't be boosted as much as a lighter JT with heavy Rubicon springs.
 
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jjdustr340

jjdustr340

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Be aware that "Rubi take-offs" can mean multiple numbers and rates. If you get springs from a lighter Rubicon without all the options they won't give as much lift as springs from a full loaded to the hilt Rubicon with heavier springs.
And the lighter Rubicon springs under a heavier truck of another level won't be boosted as much as a lighter JT with heavy Rubicon springs.
Absolutely no doubt. That was part of what made me curious as to my spring numbers.
The set I’m looking at are 339/340 and 449/450.
But I seriously can not for the life of me figure why my rear spring is carrying a front spring part number.

PS welcome back, good to see you sharing knowledge again.
 

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Oh boy. I’m gonna be getting under mine tomorrow to see what I’ve got.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Absolutely no doubt. That was part of what made me curious as to my spring numbers.
The set I’m looking at are 339/340 and 449/450.
But I seriously can not for the life of me figure why my rear spring is carrying a front spring part number.

PS welcome back, good to see you sharing knowledge again.
Thanks.,

The numbers you listed are the exact numbers I bought. I'm running the fronts - the 339/340 under mine now. Before I put the steel bumper and winch on mine, those springs brought it up all but an inch.
 

kevman65

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It really sounds like they just throw random springs in a bin and they reach in blind and just pop them in at appropriate time.
 

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It really sounds like they just throw random springs in a bin and they reach in blind and just pop them in at appropriate time.
Naw, there's a definite pattern and plan. These things are computerized and the parts arrive where they should when they should.
My question is - what is the internet source being spoken of. Is it an official MOPAR parts listing?
If so, that SHOULD be accurate - as long as one goes to the site, pulls up the illustration and goes from there. A number could be left or right, depending on the OPTIONS THAT truck has.
But the fronts and rears don't interchange - big differences in them - coil diameter, wire diameter, length, and the fronts have an open end.

Jeep Gladiator Factory spring mystery rubicon-suspension-2
 
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jjdustr340

jjdustr340

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Naw, there's a definite pattern and plan. These things are computerized and the parts arrive where they should when they should.
My question is - what is the internet source being spoken of. Is it an official MOPAR parts listing?
If so, that SHOULD be accurate - as long as one goes to the site, pulls up the illustration and goes from there. A number could be left or right, depending on the OPTIONS THAT truck has.
But the fronts and rears don't interchange - big differences in them - coil diameter, wire diameter, length, and the fronts have an open end.

Jeep Gladiator Factory spring mystery rubicon-suspension-2
Direct from mopar.com

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-front-coil-spring-right-68506117aa
It’s a head scratcher for sure.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Possibilities include-
One is that the factory messed up on the number vs. position. If that's the case every single site you look at will be wrong because the source for every listing out there is wrong.

In the past 10 years I have found at least 4 incorrect parts listings:
Timken had the wrong bearing set number listed for Eagle front hubs - that means that anyone who visited any store, online or in person, who sold Timken bearing sets- and any company that used their numbers to cross-reference their own - was wrong. I contacted Timken and got it corrected.
RockAuto was selling Gabriel steering stabilizers for Eagle that were WAAAY too long. Compressed as far as they'd go, they'd still not fit between the frame and steering parts. I contacted RockAuto who contacted Gabriel - who told them I was full of crap. I sent photos, original factory part numbers, measurements, etc. - Gabriel refused to move saying they were right and I was wrong. (I know more about Eagle cars than most folks)
MOPAR 727, 904, etc. automatic transmission selector shaft seal - I ordered one and got an output shaft seal. I sent it back and went to a store and asked for one - got an output seal. Fount out National had the numbers messed up so anyone selling National seals would sell the wrong seal. NAPA had it right because their source was not National.

Anyway, check my pic - FRONT springs have the bottom coil "open". The rear springs have the coils basically closed on top and bottom. There is no coil that appears to have been simply "cut off", they are pretty much closed.
Only fronts have that because the pad they sit on has a sort of "ramp" - rears do not.
So you can't possibly put a rear spring on a front. They'd be too large anyway.
 
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jjdustr340

jjdustr340

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Possibilities include-
One is that the factory messed up on the number vs. position. If that's the case every single site you look at will be wrong because the source for every listing out there is wrong.

In the past 10 years I have found at least 4 incorrect parts listings:
Timken had the wrong bearing set number listed for Eagle front hubs - that means that anyone who visited any store, online or in person, who sold Timken bearing sets- and any company that used their numbers to cross-reference their own - was wrong. I contacted Timken and got it corrected.
RockAuto was selling Gabriel steering stabilizers for Eagle that were WAAAY too long. Compressed as far as they'd go, they'd still not fit between the frame and steering parts. I contacted RockAuto who contacted Gabriel - who told them I was full of crap. I sent photos, original factory part numbers, measurements, etc. - Gabriel refused to move saying they were right and I was wrong. (I know more about Eagle cars than most folks)
MOPAR 727, 904, etc. automatic transmission selector shaft seal - I ordered one and got an output shaft seal. I sent it back and went to a store and asked for one - got an output seal. Fount out National had the numbers messed up so anyone selling National seals would sell the wrong seal. NAPA had it right because their source was not National.

Anyway, check my pic - FRONT springs have the bottom coil "open". The rear springs have the coils basically closed on top and bottom. There is no coil that appears to have been simply "cut off", they are pretty much closed.
Only fronts have that because the pad they sit on has a sort of "ramp" - rears do not.
So you can't possibly put a rear spring on a front. They'd be too large anyway.
727 and 904? You MUST be an old Mopar guy like I am. Really miss my 340 Duster (the reason behind my username).
I agree with you fully, the springs even look correct, I just find it odd how the part listing doesn’t match.
At any rate, I’m really thinking I may go ahead and buy those Rubi take offs. I suspect it will help with the insane amount of rake I seem to have. When measured at the pinch welds, I have 2.5 inches of difference from front to rear, which is also what added to my wondering if the springs were somehow wrong. Most say it’s 1.5 or 1.75 difference.
 

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Be aware that "Rubi take-offs" can mean multiple numbers and rates. If you get springs from a lighter Rubicon without all the options they won't give as much lift as springs from a full loaded to the hilt Rubicon with heavier springs.
And the lighter Rubicon springs under a heavier truck of another level won't be boosted as much as a lighter JT with heavy Rubicon springs.

Fully aware. That's why before I even bought Rubi take-offs I wanted to get some insight into the Willys springs to see if they would make a difference. The take-offs I bought were from an LE and are the highest number. Only went ahead and bought the because the price was so cheap. But still don't have any info on my stock shocks to go by.
 

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I have a set of front springs from a LE, they are 340 and 343. Gained about an inch over the original springs which were 330 and 334. I also have the rear springs from the same LE which I did not use.
 

Garemlin

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I have a set of front springs from a LE, they are 340 and 343. Gained about an inch over the original springs which were 330 and 334. I also have the rear springs from the same LE which I did not use.
What trim did you put them on. Max tow or no?

I asked a question about installing the Rubi front springs and leaving the stock springs on my Willys. Hope was to level it a little. But I wasn't sure what effect there would be mixing springs from two different models.
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