Hide-a-Step DIY Installation, Tips and Tricks

[Mad Mac]

The photos on the dealer website suggested
the already vertically challenging 2021 Rubicon JT
had been lifted even higher
and was on 35 inch tires.

For a short, fat old man like me,
this would make saddling up and dismounting,
though not impossible,
awkward at the least.

While I waited for the transport to show up,
a step was ordered
and was on hand even before the JT arrived.

At $178.82, a M.O.R.E. Hide-a-Step
for a single door is a costly bit of kit.
For merely another $75 or so,
a choice of full length steps is available,
that would serve all four doors
and could provide even a lower step.

Seeing as how I would be the only person
getting in and out on a regular basis,
keeping the factory rock rails
and maintaining the ground clearance
and break over angle was the priority.
One never knows when there might be
a tall curb at a Starbucks.

Most importantly,
none of the other steps were available in red!

Not an exact match for the iconic Rubicon red tow hooks,
they are nonetheless separated far enough apart
that no one is likely to notice that they are different shades.

Sponsored

 

[Mad Mac]

The installation was a struggle.
YouTube videos helped, sort of.

Some people installed the step
with the bracket and step already assembled.
Only one short video installed the bare bracket first,
which looked much easier and was the way I did it.
The package arrives unassembled
and the written instructions say to do it that way, too.

One tip I did get from a video
was to block the spring loaded bracket open
at a 90 degree angle with a chunk of 2x4.
This makes it shorter and easier to fit.
Another video used a large socket.
But then they seemed to remove them too soon.
I used the wood block and kept it in
as I maneuvered the bracket into position.

To safely put the block in the spring loaded bracket
I clamped the bracket in a vise. Be careful.

Some people completely removed the rock rail.
The instructions say to remove all the stud nuts and bolts
except leave one rear stud loosely attached.
That worked for me.

The secret is to move the rail outward a little
and twist or roll the rail upward.
Then the bracket will fit under the rail tab.

Nutted up the bracket to the studs and rock rail.
The wooden block was in the way of the bolt.
So I moved the block between the bracket and frame rail
to make it easier to put the pins in later, which it did.

Do not put your hand between the spring loaded bracket
and the frame rail. Use some sort of tool or stick.

Once all the nuts and bolts were installed
the step was mounted to the bracket
using the pins provided.
Pull down on the step to release the block of wood.

Take the step for a test run.
Open the door and push the step down with a toe,
slide the ball of your foot up onto the step and get in.
(I failed to open the door when taking the picture.)
Use your heel to push the step down to get out.

Put away tools.
Drink beer.

 

[Chocolyle]

This right here makes me now want to do the lift. My hesitation is getting in with a lift and larger tires. Thank you.

But: "Nutted up the bracket to the studs and rock rail."

 

[Mad Mac]

I'm so old I had to refer to the Urban Dictionary
to understand why that was funny.
American usage is changing so fast
it is difficult to keep up with you youngsters.

There was one thing on the install
I could have done differently
that would have made it easier and faster.

The detent pins and pull rings for the step
were packed apart in the zip lock package.
To spare the detent ball wear and tear
I decided to push them in from the ring end.

The close tolerance of the pin holes
made for a bit of bother.
You have to hold your mouth right.
The detent ball end is chamfered.
Just push them in and get it over with.
And put the pull rings on the pins
before you push it through the step.

One more comment about a lifted JT.
A bone stock Nacho Sport
would have been just fine with me.
One of the appeals of the mid-size Gladiator
was that it was handy.
My precision-sized self (5' 6")
could reach over the sides
and touch the floor of the bed.
The good news is,
in spite of a lifted Rubicon on 35s,
I still can.

Now where is the nearest Starbucks...

 

[churro1513]

I just installed these this morning, 35 minutes one side, 25 the other side. I basically took all the bolts and nuts off. I also ziptied the step, which made working with it really easy. I used the factory bolt too, not their allen head substitution. I watched enough videos to see people struggling with them trying to keep their bolts on. Just be careful when you cut the zips, I put a carpet knife that is rubber behind it and it was the perfect stop and allowed me to get an impact socket in to get the bolt tight.

A few suggestions to anyone doing this in the future: try to get the bolt started that holds the step before you snug anything else down. Also have a floor jack to keep you safe in case the rail decides to have a mind of its own. Not in the picture, but I put a zip tip around the back of the piece (the upward piece in the picture so that I can pull it down when I need to replace the pins.

 

[gstipton]

Great advice in this thread.

* Removed all of the bolts except one of the horizontal 10mm bolts at the end
* Supported the opposite end with a jack
* Used zip ties to hold the base plate at 90 degrees and attached it to the frame
* Put a block of wood in the back, snipped the zip ties and then attached the step

Took longer on the first side to figure out the process on the first side. Second side took about 20 minutes and most of that time was dealing with all the 10mm bolts.

 

[Mad Mac]

Congratulations on the install.

One thing I've learned after using mine for nine months
is to slide my foot forward on the step
and stand on my heel.

That way my foot has room to rotate outward with my knee
as I pivot on my heel to get in.
Otherwise your foot is trapped against the rock rail and cannot pivot
which can twist the knee.

 

[JamesWyatt]

Resurrecting this thread after getting mine installed yesterday. Having cursed this product install years ago on my JK, I knew to use the zip tie method this time. This time I also removed the rails and used a second zip tie to hold the assembly to the rail arm bracket while reinstalling the rail. There is simply no way to get it installed without the rail being removed at least on the Mojave. Rail removal was easy even without an impact wrench as the rail bolts were not tight at all.

Notes:

1. Only one small zip tie is needed to hold the base spring assembly thing in the "L" shape for install.
2. Remove all rock rail bolts and set the rail onto the floor (don't try removing the rail while laying down under the jeep, obviously). Support the rail from the center, and it balances easily enough. It's heavy-ish but not too heavy for one person.
3. With the rail on the garage floor, slide the assembly onto the rail arm bracket but not so far as to engage the bottom rail bolts. Use a second zip tie to temporarily secure the assembly to the rail arm bracket body mount hole so that it stays in place while reinstalling the rail. Of the two bolt holes on top of the assembly, put the zip tie through the hole closest to the rail. This allows the bottom bracket holes to be spaced away from the rail's bottom bolts. That gap/space has to be there for the rail bolts to go back into the pinch seam holes.
4. Reinstall the rail by just getting the rail bolts back through the pinch seam. Take care to let the pinch seam slide between the rail bolts and the assembly.
5. With nothing bolted in yet, get under the vehicle and removed the zip tie at the top rail arm bracket. (Do not remove the first zip tie yet or the spring will violently release the rear of the bracket!)
6. The bracket now can be pushed toward the rail and the bottom assembly's bolt holes slide over the rail bolts.
7. Reinstall and tightened all rail bolts. Do not over-tighten or you risk snapping a bolt off. They are just barely snug from the factory.
8. Use a large zip tie and wrap it around the outside of the assembly, threading it behind the body/rail and back out. This will hold the bracket in the L shape when the original zip tie is cut and removed.
9. Wedge the head of a rubber mallet between the back of the assembly and the frame as extra security and as a way to adjust/move the bracket to help with pin alignment by moving the mallet around by the handle.
10. Cut and remove the small zip tie to free up the hole for the pins that attach the pedal to the assembly. The large zip tie and rubber mallet head should hold the bracket in the L-shape, but take care when removing the original zip tie, as the assembly in the "L" shape is under immense pressure.
11. From there, I was able to use a combination of hand pressure and adjustment from the rubber mallet to get the holes aligned and the front pin installed. With the rubber mallet head still in place, I carefully cut the large zip tie. I moved the mallet head around to get the rear holes to align (they won't align while the bracket is in the "L" shape, it has to be released just a wee bit).

I only bought and installed one unit on the driver's side for my wife. If I buy a second one for the driver's side, I think I'll try to do the install with the pedal fully assembled. With the rail completely off, seems like that would be easier and eliminate steps 8-11. Just have to figure out how to use zip ties to hold the bracket in an L without occupying the holes needed for the pins.

 

[Texbaz]

JamesWyatt, Great write up. I just received a M.O.R.E. Hide-a-step and your detailed instructions should help greatly. Just installed the dead pedal, thought it be much more difficult but no so much. I've spent 40 years working corporate aircraft from teeny weeny Lears and Hawkers, to much larger Gulfstream G550's and 650's its usually all about planning and having the right tools and you instructions is a very handy tool.

Sponsored