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JT Rubicon 37 Nitto Ridge axles trussing and C gussets

Criossk

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Greetings axles gurus!

I need some feedback on axles trussing as I haven’t taken my Gladiator off-road yet because I’m a bit nervous about doing some intermedium trails with 37s and no reinforcement.

Please let me know your thoughts. Back in the day I did Cs on my Rubicon JKU running 35s Toyos MTs. I just wanna go enjoy myself not worrying about getting stranded in the middle of nowhere far away from home…

Thanks to all!
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shrinkhead

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37s I would not worry too much. I just did the front shafts with RCVs and have wheeled the rear stock as the Yukons are not showing up since forever a few times. I have a HEMI too so even more stress. These heavy duty 44s are not your D30 form your JK Sahara days. unless you are bouncing them like crazy you will be fine for many runs
 
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Criossk

Criossk

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37s I would not worry too much. I just did the front shafts with RCVs and have wheeled the rear stock as the Yukons are not showing up since forever a few times. I have a HEMI too so even more stress. These heavy duty 44s are not your D30 form your JK Sahara days. unless you are bouncing them like crazy you will be fine for many runs
Thanks for the feedback.
 

Boostnu

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I have been wondering the same thing about a truss. I’ve heard the c’s are alot thicker on these than the Jk but I have also heard that the area where the fad is weaker. So at what point is a truss needed?
 

shrinkhead

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I have been wondering the same thing about a truss. I’ve heard the c’s are alot thicker on these than the Jk but I have also heard that the area where the fad is weaker. So at what point is a truss needed?
others should chime in since there is so much controversy around this. I wheeled the stock axles with the HEMI and 35 trail grapplers pretty hard with no issues for about a year and only changed the front shafts for the 37s but even kept the FAD with the RCVs. rears as mentioned are still in waiting mode. I may just do the axle truss and see how 40s feel before completely changing the build. Bouncing brakes rear axles so if that’s something you do a lot you need to beef up sooner than later. if you constantly have the front at full lock bouncing with locked diffs the u joints will give eventually. but can just swap in another one….cheap fix.
Personally I am interested in getting as much mileage as possible out of the stock lockers and axles before throwing them away.
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