Need advice on swapping in aftermarket incandescent stop/turn/tail lights

[Goat]

Hi All,

Noob here, both to this forum and to Jeeps. I have a 2025 Gladiator Nighthawk.

What I'm trying to do: The top-level goal is a flatbed swap.

The problem: Error "Turn signals out" after driving for a few minutes. And it's not just the error message. The computer disables the lights. So I have no stop/turn or tail lights once I see the error message.

Why I'm doing this: Replacing the bed forces replacement of the tail light assemblies. I have a plan to use Jeep-style LEDs but there is a very specific and long order of operations to get those installed. I don't have time right now. I'm traveling this weekend and need working lights. I'm using these from Truck-Lite only because they are what came with the bed from my previous installation and I need a quick, temporary solution. Please note that there are two lights in parallel at each corner. They are in a 3-light pod with the third being the reverse light.

What I've tried: The light installation appeared to work perfectly to start. I tested the lights thoroughly before mounting them. It was only after driving a while that I started seeing errors. In the previous installation I did need to add 100 Ohm resistors to bump up the current a little, to eliminate a fast-flash issue. That same mod didn't help, but did slightly change the behavior on the Jeep. I then ordered 6 Ohm resistors for the stop/turn circuits. This caused the computer to error almost immediately after starting the engine.

Where I am now: I've ordered a Tazer. I've removed the big resistors. I'm wondering if the current-sensing for the lights can detect over-current conditions, and that maybe that's what the problem is. I pretty sure that there is no CAN interface to the lights. Those wires are missing from the harnesses. I might be able to rewire the light pods to separate the parallel stop/turn lights, but before I spin my wheels any longer on this I need to just ask the community if anyone has experience with anything like this.

I sincerely appreciate any advice anyone can offer. Thanks in advance.

I anticipate that someone will want to see pics of the truck, but I hesitate due to a bad experience. Modern tools make social engineering very easy and images really help the bad people. Sorry to be a party-pooper.

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[MPMB]

Quick fix - Wire a 4-flat to the lights and plug it in the back like a trailer.

 

[Goat]

Now THAT is an interesting solution. Thank you! I still hope that there might be something a little more elegant. I also need to tow a trailer this weekend. But if nothing else works, that could get me by.

Cheers!

 

[Goat]

To preserve the information for posterity, disconnecting one of the two parallel-wired lights at each corner was the solution. Apparently the vehicle does detect over-current conditions and will shut off the output drivers for the lights if an over-current condition is detected. Although, I'm probably the only person who would ever want to replace the factory lights with other incandescents.

My thanks to MPMB and any others who gave my question some thought.

 

[Hootbro]

Need to get setup for JScan and access the BCM. There is a bazillion settings for configuring the light types.

 

[Goat]

Thanks. I just got a Tazer. I haven't explored it's capabilities yet, but based on the user manual, it doesn't sound like it has access to that many settings. Does JScan offer more or do I just need to play with the Tazer some to figure it out?

 

[Hootbro]

Well, you are already invested in the Tazer and I would say figure out what that can do for you.

I have no hands on with a Tazer and half the time I comment on it, I get it wrong.

 

[Lucky1]

Any photos of your project?

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