The Yeti track bar bushing is rebuildable. This one is polyurethane instead of rubber.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
does the front end NEED to be off the ground, with the front suspension suspended, to do that? thats one of my sticking points where I find conflicting info as I peruse the internet.
No, on the ground, with the wheels as straight as possible. After setting the toe, you can re-center the steering wheel via the drag link adjustment if necessary. Both adjustment collars only have a single 15mm head pinch bolt.
I learned using one of these gauges, that I got from an ex-girlfriend's dad in the early '90s. He was sure to ask for it back after we broke up.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yeah, what's above -
I modify that a bit.......
I use the ribs on the tire face - I hook a tape measure to the tread, bit of tape to hold it in place. Measure to the same place on the other tire so I have a measurement of say center rib to center rib of each tire at the front.
Then I do the same at the rear which on these works out pretty well because you can actually get a tape measure through under the truck.
Ideally you measure exactly half-way up on the tire, dead even with the center of the spindle, same height front and rear.
When I did alignments years ago we also used a spreader bar to push the wheels apart at the front to simulate the road forces shoving the tires outward. Ended up more accurate.
The long red line on the side of the tire indicates half-way up, measure here both front and back, if not possible, get as close as you can, but do the same front and back.
The other is where I hooked a tape measure (and a bit of duct tape to hold the end in place)
Easier with tires with straight ribs. Where-ever you choose to measure, choose the same exact spot both sides, front and back of the front tires, to keep it even.
Choose a spot on the tread face or the outside edge of the tire, which-ever is easiest on your tires and your truck. As long as you use the exact same spots each time, you'll be fine.
IF you measure 50" on the front, you want 50 1/8" at the rear of the front tires. A 1/8" difference, whatever your measurements are.
A laugh for you saying he he asked for it back, a like because - yeah, we learned on what some consider basic or primitive stuff - until I got into a shop with Bear, and then later, even more expensive stuff.I learned using one of these gauges, that I got from an ex-girlfriend's dad in the early '90s. He was sure to ask for it back after we broke up.
That looks like too small a bolt on the track bar or REALLY bad bushings.
Bolt diameter/size would not matter if the clamping force was adequate to hold the bushing squeezed in place. The bolt only clamps it. Yes, you want the correct size bolt in place, but in theory, if it was clamped tight enough, it couldn't move even if the bolt was half of the diameter needed.
