Need some advice and feedback on towing with 37's

[3TDJEEP]

I have a 23 Diesel Rubicon with 13" wide 35's (Falken APW4's). I have 37" Falken APW4's on backorder. The 37's are 2" taller but each tire is 3lbs lighter due to a 1.6" narrower thread pattern on the 37's. My gearing is the stock 3.73.

I recently decided to buy a toy hauler. It's 5000lbs dry and has a tall pitched roof. I will be pushing the towing limit of my Diesel Rubicon. I am about to install the CSF aluminum radiator (w/Zerex coolant) and the Mishimoto transmission cooler. Also a 2024 grill for better air flow. And I have the taser so I can manually control the cooling fan. I live in California and most of my camping will be in and around the Sierra Nevada mountains, so I will be climbing often.

Now that I have decided to buy a Toy Hauler, I am questioning my order for the 37" tires. At first it was a no brainer to me due to them being lighter. But now I'm wondering if I'll just be further hindering my toy capacity.

I'd appreciate some advice. Will the 2" taller tires hurt my performance even though they are lighter and narrower? I assume if I were to regear, then the 37's wouldn't hurt at all since they are lighter. Am I correct with this assumption?

I'd appreciate some feedback.

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[justbig]

It’s time to re-gear either way 35’s or 37’s. My first thought would be a 4.56 ratio. May be a tad deep on 35’s. Definitely add a Whitline or Hellwig HD sway bar and sway bar reinforcement brackets. The stock sway bar is notorious for pulling breaking top mount let alone an HD sway bar. May also consider a heavier valved shock like a Bilstein. And don’t forget the brakes. Yes trailer brakes are “supposed to” cover the trailer’s weight, but you can’t have to much brake when towing.

 

[S JEEPN]

I do not really have the need for 37s but it does seem people get by with stock gearing although 35s may be a bit easier on the other components. I assume you will use a programmer for the tire size change that should help a lot. If it was me i would forgo changing the radiator unless you have an issue with temps already the same with the coolant if you are doing a flush and replace and want to upgrade do it then. i could see the benefit of the trans cooler pulling a lot of hills but even then i would see how the temps do first rather than adding complexity to fix something that may not be broken. The grill more airflow probably would not hurt as long as you like the look. The only time i could see much of an issue with a toy trailer would be if you have to climb with strong headwinds in triple digit temps that may be reason enough for a trans cooler although if you manually select a lower gear and do not push it 5K should just add up to a little bigger fuel bill and not much temp change. The suggestions for stability like bigger sway bar etc would be a consideration but again i would see how it feels to you i have not found my Mojave to have stability issue at max load and it probably has softer springs and shocks than a Rubi Diesel.

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