Newbie Questions re: Wheels, Tires, Lifts, etc

[cafecito]

So, with absolutely no coercion or hint dropping on my part, my wife just up and said, "The tires on your Gladiator look kinda small..." I guess I got the golden ticket - permission from the wife to buy new toys!

I've looked at quite a few build pictures, and I think I like the look of a lot of the factory wheels with 35" tires on them. But, a lot of the ones I seem to like also appear to have some kind of small lift/level to it, so the front end is a bit higher than factory, and the truck sits more horizontal. So, in my head, I'm looking at:

- A set of 35" tires that would fit on the factory rims (17"?)
- A spacer lift kit

I realize this is probably not rocket surgery, but I've never done anything like this before with a vehicle, and I've heard of a lot of complications that people run into when they start effing with their Jeeps too much (wobbles, poorer mpg, etc). So...

1. If I like the look of the 35" tires, does it matter if I keep the 17" factory wheels, or should I get bigger wheels as well (like the 18" from Overlands)? My Mojave is mostly a pavement princess for now, so I'm not all that concerned about sidewall height or anything. I'm just not sure what the pros/cons of more/less tire sidewall height are.
2. For the lift, because my Gladiator is a Mojave, I 100% do not want to screw with the shocks or suspension at all. Is putting a spacer lift on it going to affect anything other than ride height?
3. I know that, just because math, my speedometer is going to be off if I increase tire size. Do shops typically have access to devices that can re-program the ECU in my Gladiator to understand that it's riding on 35" now? I have read that a lot of people invest in Tazers for that purpose, but that's a lot of money for something I only ever need to do one time.
4. As for the actual install, is this something I could handle at home? I've watched a few dozen videos of people on YouTube doing it, but I don't have a jack or jack stands - so I would have to buy those as well. Any thoughts on if it's worth investing in my own jack and stands for something like this vs. paying a local shop to do it?

Sorry for the novel, and thank you sincerely if you managed to read most of this. Any feedback, advice, or direction is 100% welcome!

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[jay21mojave]

So, with absolutely no coercion or hint dropping on my part, my wife just up and said, "The tires on your Gladiator look kinda small..." I guess I got the golden ticket - permission from the wife to buy new toys!

I've looked at quite a few build pictures, and I think I like the look of a lot of the factory wheels with 35" tires on them. But, a lot of the ones I seem to like also appear to have some kind of small lift/level to it, so the front end is a bit higher than factory, and the truck sits more horizontal. So, in my head, I'm looking at:

- A set of 35" tires that would fit on the factory rims (17"?)
- A spacer lift kit

I realize this is probably not rocket surgery, but I've never done anything like this before with a vehicle, and I've heard of a lot of complications that people run into when they start effing with their Jeeps too much (wobbles, poorer mpg, etc). So...

1. If I like the look of the 35" tires, does it matter if I keep the 17" factory wheels, or should I get bigger wheels as well (like the 18" from Overlands)? My Mojave is mostly a pavement princess for now, so I'm not all that concerned about sidewall height or anything. I'm just not sure what the pros/cons of more/less tire sidewall height are.
2. For the lift, because my Gladiator is a Mojave, I 100% do not want to screw with the shocks or suspension at all. Is putting a spacer lift on it going to affect anything other than ride height?
3. I know that, just because math, my speedometer is going to be off if I increase tire size. Do shops typically have access to devices that can re-program the ECU in my Gladiator to understand that it's riding on 35" now? I have read that a lot of people invest in Tazers for that purpose, but that's a lot of money for something I only ever need to do one time.
4. As for the actual install, is this something I could handle at home? I've watched a few dozen videos of people on YouTube doing it, but I don't have a jack or jack stands - so I would have to buy those as well. Any thoughts on if it's worth investing in my own jack and stands for something like this vs. paying a local shop to do it?

Sorry for the novel, and thank you sincerely if you managed to read most of this. Any feedback, advice, or direction is 100% welcome!

Very good to question; there will be many opinions...
..The Mojave has additional offset on the wheels 0.25" vs all other JT wheels. 35's fit fine on the Mojave wheels..
..What size are you considering? 35/12.50 or 11.50 x 17 ? Both should fit fine. If your use is mostly DD then look for a Load C or D rated - it will ride better.. many 12.50s are Load E which has stiffer sidewalls.
..The Mojave has an additional 1 inch height in the springs for its designed use by Jeep; so IMO no spacers or lift is needed. I run 35/11.50s w/out any additional spacing or lift.
Speedo.. yes a correction is necessary.. Jscan is a very popular APP that will do alot.. Jscan.com will provide all the details (I use this- be sure to measure the actual tire height installed at correct PSI; my 35s are actually 34.2")
..YES-Jack Stands & good Jack.. The tire store will mount and balance..When rotating tires on your own or working underneath off the ground you should use jack stands; a floor jack or bottle jack would be good.. for the DIYer HF has good equipment but check for competitive pricing; it all depends on how much DIY you plan to do..
Good luck with your project. Post up pics..

 

[Fouts]

Pretty much what the previous poster said but here is what I did and very happy with the result.
2021 Mojave
2 inch AEV spacer lift, specific to the Mojave
Yeti front track bar, may not be necessary but like to recenter axle
Front lower adjustable control arms, again not necessary but allows to push axle back out a bit
Aev Salta wheels, do fit the 12.5 inch tire a bit better than stock and offset is +25 for less poke
Fox 2.0 Steering stabilizer, did notice a firmer feel after install, again not necessary.
NItto m/t 315/70 17
I like that I was able to retain all of what makes it a Mojave and it still maintained the ride and steering of stock. I do take it offroad quite a bit so thats why the mud terrains.

 

[Fouts]

And yes, do it your self, there will be some challenges but the $ savings and feeling of accomplishment you get is worth it.

 

[cafecito]

..What size are you considering? 35/12.50 or 11.50 x 17 ? Both should fit fine. If your use is mostly DD then look for a Load C or D rated - it will ride better.. many 12.50s are Load E which has stiffer sidewalls.
..The Mojave has an additional 1 inch height in the springs for its designed use by Jeep; so IMO no spacers or lift is needed. I run 35/11.50s w/out any additional spacing or lift.

Considering I understood very little of this question, I think I need to do some more soul searching... I searched for those measurements, but didn't quite comprehend what they correlated to.

Mind explaining like I'm a child? And, the pros/cons of each?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Gvsukids]

On a Mohave, no need for a lift if just going to 35. A taser will also work in calibrating speedometer Plus give you a lot more options.

 

[cafecito]

On a mojave, no need for a lift if just going to 35. A taser will also work in calibrating speedometer Plus give you a lot more options.

Yea, I was more just thinking of leveling the front out so it's not so nose-heavy. The heaviest thing that goes in my bed is bowling balls.

 

[KevinC]

You do not need to lift a Mohave to fit 35" tires. A spacer to level the front is only done if someone doesn't like the "rake" a stock JT has. I can't even tell on my JTR.

35x10.50x17 is a not to common size, but this size will keep the tires inside the fender flairs. This can be important, or not. 35x11.50x17 and 35x12.50x17 are somewhat more available sizes that will work with stock wheels. These sizes are US Standard size, while you are shopping you may see the metric version, ie: 315x70x17. You need to find a online convertor if you don't know what those sizes equate to in inches. They will stick out past the flairs and may rub at full lock of the steering wheel.

You are responsible for correcting the calibration of your speedo. A dealership will do it (some), but expect to spend at least $100. Jscan costs less than that and will do much more. You may not think you will ever need any of the other apps it offers, but you will.

If you don't own a jack and stands, I would highly suggest you re-think the lift. Buying quality, safe equipment will cost more than a couple of spacers to get 1" of lift. Find someone local who may be willing to help you. There are a lot of Central Florida folks on here.

KevinC

 

[jay21mojave]

Considering I understood very little of this question, I think I need to do some more soul searching... I searched for those measurements, but didn't quite comprehend what they correlated to.

Mind explaining like I'm a child? And, the pros/cons of each?

Thanks for the reply!

Sure.. check this info.. The C will have less rigid sidewalls and offer a "softer" ride. Look at this site for more info or confusion: https://www.tireoutlet.com/blog/2969/tire-speed-rating-codes-what-they-mean/
Load Range C vs D Table

Load Range C	Load Range D
Ply Rating is 6	Ply Rating is 8
Markingson tire C	Markingson tire D
Maximum Load Pressure is 50 psi (350 kPa)	Maximum Load Pressure is 65 psi (450 kPa)
Longevity is More Durable	Longevity is More Durable
Maximum load of 1,760 lbs. at 50 psi	Maximum load of 2,150-lb maximum load at 65 psi
Speed Rating is 60 (km/h)	Speed Rating is 65 (km/h

As mentioned earlier, the main difference lies in the load capacity and psi rating. If the sizes are the same, they have similar dimensions. Also, both of them will fit in the same wheel.

The capacity is designated by the letter C and D. In this case, the D ranged tires are higher in capacity. The size does matter in the case of performance. The maximum capacity of any load range tires is more or less the same. For instance, LT245/75R16 tires have a load capacity of 2205 lbs and 2623 lbs for C-rated and D-rated, respectively.

 

[Echo26]

Pretty much what the previous poster said but here is what I did and very happy with the result.
2021 Mojave
2 inch AEV spacer lift, specific to the Mojave
Yeti front track bar, may not be necessary but like to recenter axle
Front lower adjustable control arms, again not necessary but allows to push axle back out a bit
Aev Salta wheels, do fit the 12.5 inch tire a bit better than stock and offset is +25 for less poke
Fox 2.0 Steering stabilizer, did notice a firmer feel after install, again not necessary.
NItto m/t 315/70 17
I like that I was able to retain all of what makes it a Mojave and it still maintained the ride and steering of stock. I do take it offroad quite a bit so thats why the mud terrains.

Did you need shock extensions for the AEV spacer lift?

 

[Trippin01]

Fun Fun. I think you have the right idea. then see how much you use it for trails and such, but you are off to a reasonable start. 35's and a 2" leveling kit, perfect.

 

[Fouts]

Did you need shock extensions for the AEV spacer lift?

Stock extensions come with the AEV kit as well as longer sway bar links. That's why i think it is a pretty good value. I had a taser so went with the kit without pro cal. It is nice to have something to adjust speedo when putting larger tires on.

 

[SpeedNeed]

Tire Load Ratings?

Help please, sorry if basic stuff: What are the advantages of of a LOWER load rating, like a “C” vs. an “E”. (NOT advantages of E’s over C’s, that part is clear).

I read what they mean (Load Pressure and Ply-Equivalents). I want to infer that a “C” deforms more easily as it rolls, and that “all else equal” C’s would have less rolling resistance and thus better gas mileage. is that right?

Mainly I’m wondering about the many references to C’s “riding better”. Is the ride like say dropping 5lbs of pressure in an “E” ? Is the “durability“ of an “E” more important when running low tire pressures?

Thanks all.

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