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Noise After Lift

Binfordtools

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I’m a pain in the a$$ this weekend with asking y’all for help. Sorry.
I installed an Iron Rock 2” spacer lift. Had some trouble with the rear springs, but eventually got it.
I torqued everything down (hopefully) and took for a test drive. Was quite at first then I noticed a light metallic sound from the front over bumps. Any ideas? I know without hearing it this isn’t an easy question to respond to, just thought if I had this sound maybe others may too. Thanks
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Gren71

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I have the IRO lift as well and haven't had a single issue, so my guess is your issue is not normal.

Id start by making sure the sway bar ends are torqued top and bottom. Also, id suggest getting a set of rear sway bar ends and using them on the front the reset that angle and return the driving body roll feel to normal after the lift. It was suggested to me and made a HUGE difference.

Make sure your break lines were re-attached to the lower control arms after the lift was done.

Then Id make sure the front spring isolators are oriented properly. The isolators are between he spring and the spacer. They have two dimples that should both be rotated so they are facing in towards the engine compartment. if you feel inside the housing where the isolator sat before the spacer, you should feel two holes where they would sit from the factory. I did my best to make sure they were as close as possible. If they are not you should see the springs bowing a bit. Whether that bow is forward, backward, or to the side, will depend on how that isolator is misoriented.

Next Id check the front lower spring isolator. They're hard plastic and can easily get bent or messed up when playing with the front springs.

also make sure your track bar is tight top and bottom, as well as your shocks are all tightened back up.

Remember that somethings things can be "tight" when first done, and loosen a little with driving. Always good to just double check all nuts/bolts.
 

kevman65

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Did you loosen the hardware for the front control arms?

If so, did you tighten them back up when the Jeep was back on the ground?

If you didn't loosen the control arm bolts, you might go back and loosen them, bounce the front bumper a few times, then tighten them back up.

The OEM control arm bushings/sleeves do not move, they are fixed. You changed the geometry and those bushings and sleeves are in a bind if not allowed to move to their new home.
 
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Binfordtools

Binfordtools

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Did you loosen the hardware for the front control arms?

If so, did you tighten them back up when the Jeep was back on the ground?

If you didn't loosen the control arm bolts, you might go back and loosen them, bounce the front bumper a few times, then tighten them back up.

The OEM control arm bushings/sleeves do not move, they are fixed. You changed the geometry and those bushings and sleeves are in a bind if not allowed to move to their new home.
I forgot to loosen the bolts on the axle and only loosened the frame ones. Didn’t realize until the lift was in. Think that could have something to do with it?
 

kevman65

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I forgot to loosen the bolts on the axle and only loosened the frame ones. Didn’t realize until the lift was in. Think that could have something to do with it?
It is possible, and an easy place to start. Remember don't remove anything, just loosen all the way up, bounce the bumper, torque back down.
Drive it, if noise is gone you're done. If not, keep looking at other things.
 

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Gren71

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Did you loosen the hardware for the front control arms?

If so, did you tighten them back up when the Jeep was back on the ground?

If you didn't loosen the control arm bolts, you might go back and loosen them, bounce the front bumper a few times, then tighten them back up.

The OEM control arm bushings/sleeves do not move, they are fixed. You changed the geometry and those bushings and sleeves are in a bind if not allowed to move to their new home.
good catch. I forgot about that this step
 

kevman65

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good catch. I forgot about that this step

Some instructions don't include it, others stress doing it.

With the OEM arms having fixed bushings and sleeves, it only makes sense to relieve all the stress and let it find home itself.

May not be the problem, still have the shock extensions and as you pointed out the spring perches. Might have put track bar in a bind, so many things to chase when the geometry changes.
 

Gren71

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Some instructions don't include it, others stress doing it.

With the OEM arms having fixed bushings and sleeves, it only makes sense to relieve all the stress and let it find home itself.

May not be the problem, still have the shock extensions and as you pointed out the spring perches. Might have put track bar in a bind, so many things to chase when the geometry changes.
if memory serves the IRO instructions don't have it in there. I remember doing it to mine when It went on, and again after replacing the LCAs with MPP LCAs. just one of those things ya forget after you do it haha
 
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Binfordtools

Binfordtools

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**ROOKIE MISTAKE** I found my problem! I went back underneath to double-check all of the bolt torques and found out I forgot to tighten the upper control arm to the frame on the passenger side. 100% my fault. Thank you to all who responded, I'll try and shuddup now for a while!!
 

Gren71

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**ROOKIE MISTAKE** I found my problem! I went back underneath to double-check all of the bolt torques and found out I forgot to tighten the upper control arm to the frame on the passenger side. 100% my fault. Thank you to all who responded, I'll try and shuddup now for a while!!
glad it wasn't anything significant!
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