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Overland - I’m sure it’s been asked before (apologies in advance)

punk'n

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R.I.P '20 Overland (totaled) Welcome home '21 Rubi

chrisoverland

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Guys, I’m strongly considering an overland but the more I think about it’s lack of off-road capabilities (maybe I’m wrong?), the more I start to feel I’m not getting the best bang for my buck. Am I wrong in feeling that the Overland is not meant to take off-road or is that just the perception I’m getting right now? At the end of the day, it’s a 4x4 jeep so initially I was feeling it’s meant to be on trails, maybe just not rock crawling, but what about some easy intermediate type of trails?

Also, are there any good overland builds to look at on this forum?

And lastly, I’m not considering the sport level trims because I‘m an older dude and I’ve done my fair share of time with cloth seats and leather is the only way to for me these days. Factory installed leather that is.
I have a 2020 Overland with mopar 2" lift and 35's. I considered many different options as far as wide track, sport s, Rubicon etc. The Overland fit the bill for me. I'm 60 and wanted to treat myself to things like leather, heated seats and steering wheel, remote start etc. Covid employee pricing played a big part also. Mostly a daily driver. Live in the midwest so mainly use 4wd for snow or mud and occasional offroad. Most people like me would never use the benefits of a Rubicon. Unless you reprogram, you would never get to use the front and rear e-lockers cause there only available in 4low. The 4:1 transfer in the Rubicon is best suited for rock crawling. Kinda low for snow and mud. The few times I get to go off road, a set of manual swaybar disconnects would be fine. I've run a limited slip rear diff in vehicles for 40 years and they work in hi or low range without switching anything. My point is, just because it's not a Rubicon doesn't mean it's not Offroad worthy. Jeep went to the trouble of making even a base model Gladiator offroad worthy. Buy what you like and make it what you want.
 

Pesanchez

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Can anyone enlighten me? I have a 2022 overland used and fairly stock. The major change was that the previous owner put rubicon rims and tires (Falken wildpeak a/t 285/70R/17). Spare tire is 245/75R/17. Should I swap them out for a matching tire and rim? I saw that a few in here had a similar setup. Thanks and I look forward to your input.
 

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Can anyone enlighten me? I have a 2022 overland used and fairly stock. The major change was that the previous owner put rubicon rims and tires (Falken wildpeak a/t 285/70R/17). Spare tire is 245/75R/17. Should I swap them out for a matching tire and rim? I saw that a few in here had a similar setup. Thanks and I look forward to your input.
YOUR personal choice. I ALWAYS prefer matching tire and wheel for a spare. It's twice saved us from troubles. You can do a 5 tire rotation (recommended by tire makers, tire sellers, and even in the Jeep owner manuals for Grand Cherokee and others where it says "if equipped with matching spare".
It's your call - but I wouldn't do it any other way.
And if you do your own tire rotation, you only need to lift one corner at a time............
Drop the spare, move it to the right rear, and so on.
Plus - the advantage of exercising that spare tire lift every few thousand miles, and making sure the spare has air in it. Otherwise, are you going to go 20,000 miles, need your spare and find it's flat, or you can't get the spare down because the spare lift/winch is stuck or rusted up or something?
It forces you to check your spare and keep things loose back there.
If you blow a tire, and it can't be fixed and you have 20,000 miles on the tire and can't find a matching tire to replace it, or do - now you have an unworn tire on with 3 worn tires, or a mismatched tire.
With a matching 5th, you'll slow the wear out over time and like we've found out twice, can sometimes get a questionable tire "fixed" to use as only a spare while having the remaining 4 tires still matching on the vehicle.
Tons of advantages, no real disadvantage.
You pay up front for the wheel and tire, but you delay needing a new set of tires to down the road further.
There's a lot of info out there, the tire makers and sellers have a ton of tips and examples of the advantages. (google 5 tire rotation or similar words)
some will diss it because "it costs you money" - yeah, up front............but if you get into a pickle later, it's saved your tail.
With my Overland it was really simple and not expensive to find someone selling Overland wheels because they went a different direction.

I predict 2 here will come in and say "not worth it" ?


https://tiregrades.com/tire-maintenance/rotation/rotation-patterns/5-tire-rotation-patterns/
 

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Thank you. I think we are aligned in our way of thinking. So the spare fits comfortably underneath then?
 

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Thank you. I think we are aligned in our way of thinking. So the spare fits comfortably underneath then?
Yes, clear up to a 36 or 37" tire, depending on the tire.
But a 33" tire fits fine/easily.
 

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Thanks! The tires are 285/65/18, SL116 Toyo Open Country ATIII and match stock diameter of 32.2". By doing this I got a:
1) 1" wider tire which fits properly on the factory 18x 8" wide wheels, remains within the fender well, 2) is only 9lbs heavier than the stock 255/70/18 AS, - reducing rotating mass and unsprung weight of a 35" load range D or E,
3) avoids load range D or E as a load range SL116, (stock tires are 113)
4) keeps nearly the tire pressure near factory. I run 35PSI vs 39PSI.
5) eliminates any need to reprogram the computer for pressure or speedo,
6)maintains a nice ride,
7)significantly improved off-road grip,
8) gave me true snow rated tires
9) provided a 65K wear warranty,
10) kept my MPG where is was at 18.4 locally (haven't checked it on the highway since my driving has been a combo),
11) enables balancing with only a limited amount of weights being added due to lower rotating mass. Having formally owned a tire business I am highly sensitive to tire vibration.
12) Provide excellent highway handling. At 75-80mph it rides great.

I will add that once I added the FOX SHOCKS from the MOPAR kit the vehicle did stiffen up a little, and I do notice local road imperfections a bit more, but it seems much more responsive and less affected by cross winds on the highway (this was apparent with both stock and upgraded tires). I think They look really good in oblique angle pics where you can see the width

Frankly, if I were still in the tire business and had a mature customer who wanted to maintain a near factory ride and vehicle parameters, improved look, improved off-road performance and snow performance, quieter road ride, remain within fender lines, and didn't want the cost of going to 17" wheels to open up tire option, this is the option I would recommend. The only other alternative I would offer is keeping the size and thinking about Falken or Coopers.

BTW, there is no "death wobble", and there shouldn't be. If that happens something is worn.
Thanks! The tires are 285/65/18, SL116 Toyo Open Country ATIII and match stock diameter of 32.2". By doing this I got a:
1) 1" wider tire which fits properly on the factory 18x 8" wide wheels, remains within the fender well, 2) is only 9lbs heavier than the stock 255/70/18 AS, - reducing rotating mass and unsprung weight of a 35" load range D or E,
3) avoids load range D or E as a load range SL116, (stock tires are 113)
4) keeps nearly the tire pressure near factory. I run 35PSI vs 39PSI.
5) eliminates any need to reprogram the computer for pressure or speedo,
6)maintains a nice ride,
7)significantly improved off-road grip,
8) gave me true snow rated tires
9) provided a 65K wear warranty,
10) kept my MPG where is was at 18.4 locally (haven't checked it on the highway since my driving has been a combo),
11) enables balancing with only a limited amount of weights being added due to lower rotating mass. Having formally owned a tire business I am highly sensitive to tire vibration.
12) Provide excellent highway handling. At 75-80mph it rides great.

I will add that once I added the FOX SHOCKS from the MOPAR kit the vehicle did stiffen up a little, and I do notice local road imperfections a bit more, but it seems much more responsive and less affected by cross winds on the highway (this was apparent with both stock and upgraded tires). I think They look really good in oblique angle pics where you can see the width

Frankly, if I were still in the tire business and had a mature customer who wanted to maintain a near factory ride and vehicle parameters, improved look, improved off-road performance and snow performance, quieter road ride, remain within fender lines, and didn't want the cost of going to 17" wheels to open up tire option, this is the option I would recommend. The only other alternative I would offer is keeping the size and thinking about Falken or Coopers.

BTW, there is no "death wobble", and there shouldn't be. If that happens something is worn.
Dean, really like your reasoning for going to 285/65/18. A couple of questions: my Overlander says that it has 18 x 7.5 inch rims not 18 x 8, am I wrong or did they change that for 2022. If true, will an 285/65/18 still work on a 7.5 inch rim? Also, before you added your lift did you have rubbing or binding issues with the stock suspension?
 

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Dean, really like your reasoning for going to 285/65/18. A couple of questions: my Overlander says that it has 18 x 7.5 inch rims not 18 x 8, am I wrong or did they change that for 2022. If true, will an 285/65/18 still work on a 7.5 inch rim? Also, before you added your lift did you have rubbing or binding issues with the stock suspension?
Overland has 18", the High Altitude version of the Overland has the 20" wheels.
My 2022, built in June 2022, has the normal 18" wheels.
 

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I know the OP question has been settled but I thought I'd give my .02(US) for others that might be facing the same decision reading this thread. I'm a VERY happy '22 Overland owner and when deciding which model I wanted I had to recognize that my Gladiator is my one and only vehicle and as such it would be spending about 99% of it's life on roads and highways. So comfort for myself and wife is the #1 goal with the ability to haul my camping and hunting gear and be able to make that left turn down an unnamed dirt road when I wish to. What I ended up with is the FIRST Jeep of the 4 I've owned that my wife actually loves riding in. That is a HUGE positive.

I think most folks shop/build for mythical "capabilities" and "looks" vs. the "reality" of their lives. If not there would not be so many pristine Mojaves and Rubicons with 38" tires that have never seen dirt for sale out there. There would also not be so many Jeeps incapable of getting out of their own way on the highway because of poorly made and sloppily installed lifts and crazy big tires running on tired gears and struggling power plants.

For what it's worth, I live in the mountains and I am a shooter, hunter and general outdoorsman. I do go off-road relatively frequently, but most of it is loose rock and pretty well maintained dirt roads with the potential of significant snow 2-3 times a year. I can almost guarantee you that my Gladiator sees more dirt on average than most Jeeps out there. The stock Overland handles all of it without any issues so far, including recently a VERY STEEP mountain road that had my wife's CX-9 dig in and almost get stuck to the axels in crushed stone (her car did not make it up to the top) while my Gladiator ate the incline and surface easily enough. So wife is trading her CX-9 for a Grand Cherokee soon.

One "should" be realistic on their definition and expectations of their "off-roading" life in order to correctly find their ride and enjoy it the most. Soon I'll be moving to AZ and expect that my Gladiator will see a lot more weekend off-roading activity in somewhat more challenging terrain. But there is no rock crawling in my future. Only running down dessert dirt trails in search of solitude and the perfect camping spot.

So the gameplay is to switch the factory tires with a decent set of AT 33s and I'm set for life. Again, just keeping my wonderful vehicle aligned with my actual life as opposed to the fantasy or the look...
 

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The stock Overland handles all of it without any issues so far, including recently a VERY STEEP mountain road that had my wife's CX-9 dig in and almost get stuck to the axels in crushed stone (her car did not make it up to the top) while my Gladiator ate the incline and surface easily enough. So wife is trading her CX-9 for a Grand Cherokee soon.
You won't be sorry with a Grand Cherokee. I've had several over the years, well, my wife says they were HER Jeeps. All the way from the ZJ to WJ to WK2 and so on (several of the latter - she trades often)
They are highly rated and I've seen tests done like Grand Cherokee vs. Land Rover xxxx and so on - in snow and other stuff - GC usually comes out on top.
They are extremely stable in bad weather and I don't worry so much knowing my wife is in her GC when she takes off to hang out with her quilting friends. It walks up a snowy or icy driveway or hill with ease.
Very impressive vehicle, IMO.
Around here we call the Grand Cherokee the official vehicle of Polk County, Iowa because there are so many of them. She keeps saying "they are EVERYWHERE!" and she's right.
 

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I pretty much agree with the sentiments in this thread, especially if your Jeep is also a daily driver. I bought an '04 Rubicon brand new back in the day and passed it down to my son back in March '22. For the type wheeling I do in middle TN I really can't ever remember disconnecting my sway bar or using my lockers. Mud and ruts seems to be my adversary.

For me now I'm firmly in the Sahara camp for Wrangler and Overland camp for Gladiator. However, my '04 Rubi had cloth seats and all my 4 door trucks had leather and I'm definitely in the cloth seat camp now.

I bought a used '17 Sahara with only 52k on the odo and all I basically did to it was 1" lift up front, .75" in the back and bought some take off 17" wheels and Falken tires off this site and happy as a clam.

With my youngest out of a car seat I no longer have a truck as a secondary vehicle. Jeep only. This is my first 4 dr Jeep and first with a hardtop. I got a 5 yr 48k mile bumper to bumper warranty and the life time deal that covers "everything oil touches" and a good dealer so it gives me peace.

From 2000-Sept of 2022 I had 4 Chevy trucks, 1 Ford and 1 Ram. My wife drives a Yukon. Of those 22 years with trucks the Ram lasted 12 years and the remaining 10 years were split between 4 Chevies and 1 Ford. One of the first things to go bad on all 4 Chevies and my wife's current Yukon is the push button Auto 4WD. Jeep uses a shifter for its 4WD system so maybe that helps a ton.

On my 4 Chevies, my wife's Yukon and her previous Tahoe when put into Auto 4WD it just automatically starts going into 4HI and when you turn and it happens to be in a non slick spot it binds up like having it in 4WD on dry pavement.
 

exfil offroad

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Guys, I’m strongly considering an overland but the more I think about it’s lack of off-road capabilities (maybe I’m wrong?), the more I start to feel I’m not getting the best bang for my buck. Am I wrong in feeling that the Overland is not meant to take off-road or is that just the perception I’m getting right now? At the end of the day, it’s a 4x4 jeep so initially I was feeling it’s meant to be on trails, maybe just not rock crawling, but what about some easy intermediate type of trails?

Also, are there any good overland builds to look at on this forum?

And lastly, I’m not considering the sport level trims because I‘m an older dude and I’ve done my fair share of time with cloth seats and leather is the only way to for me these days. Factory installed leather that is.
Seems everyone has a take on what jeep is right for them but the fun in these is also modifying them to what you like. The overland model is more than capable of off-roading, just add a sway bar disconnect to it and you'll get plenty of articulation. Also the alternative to spending a bunch of extra money on some bs like the mojave or roubicon is that your replacing the parts anyhow with better more functional equipment and a lift that is likely larger than those factory shocks even the fox shocks on the mojave will take without shock extensions (trash, dont do that). IMO for what your saying youll be fine with front sway bar disconnect. You could even get some really nice custom katskin leather seats for the same price as factory... :like:
 
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Yup, amen to that. I’ve taken it off-roading a few times on the stock tires and shocks and had a ton of fun. The truck is capable of a lot right off the lot.
 

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You won't be sorry with a Grand Cherokee. I've had several over the years, well, my wife says they were HER Jeeps. All the way from the ZJ to WJ to WK2 and so on (several of the latter - she trades often)
They are highly rated and I've seen tests done like Grand Cherokee vs. Land Rover xxxx and so on - in snow and other stuff - GC usually comes out on top.
They are extremely stable in bad weather and I don't worry so much knowing my wife is in her GC when she takes off to hang out with her quilting friends. It walks up a snowy or icy driveway or hill with ease.
Very impressive vehicle, IMO.
Around here we call the Grand Cherokee the official vehicle of Polk County, Iowa because there are so many of them. She keeps saying "they are EVERYWHERE!" and she's right.
It’s consistently rated a top 4x4 by anyone in the know that I trust. She’s been through a bunch of 4WD vehicles including a Lincoln Navigator and a H2 (rather capable off road vehicle given a wide enough trail) so she’s no stranger to the type of vehicles and after a few test drives on the GV she’s sold on this one. I’m actually looking forward to her getting it. Thanks for sharing your experience! Reaffirms the decision ?
 

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Seems everyone has a take on what jeep is right for them but the fun in these is also modifying them to what you like. The overland model is more than capable of off-roading, just add a sway bar disconnect to it and you'll get plenty of articulation. Also the alternative to spending a bunch of extra money on some bs like the mojave or roubicon is that your replacing the parts anyhow with better more functional equipment and a lift that is likely larger than those factory shocks even the fox shocks on the mojave will take without shock extensions (trash, dont do that). IMO for what your saying youll be fine with front sway bar disconnect. You could even get some really nice custom katskin leather seats for the same price as factory... :like:
I've thought about those but in the years I've had Gladiators - never a need so that's down the road a ways after power steps and a steel rear bumper (Rubicon take-off to keep the stock look, I've not seen a rear bumper I actually like, yet.......)
Mine will end up with about a 1" lift by the time I'm done. 3/4" spacers in the rear, and taller springs up front (Synergy 2" lift springs to give me 1" since I've so much weight up front). Unless I go climbing the bluffs in SW Iowa, or the mountains of NE Iowa, or the Sioux area up NW, it's just hills and fields and cow pastures here and even my Eagle can take those with ease.
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