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Proper priming

here4theD

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Prepping for a fuel filter change.

I’m at 30k and drained the housing at 10k and replaced the filter at 15k.

Each time I primed the fuel system multiple times. After the filter change I must have primed it 15 to 20 times.

Both times the engine took a good 7 to 8 seconds before turning over.

Is that an acceptable length of time?

Am I being unreasonable nervous during these long cranks?

When I did the filter change at 15k earlier this year I remember letting it run for probably less than a minute, ran inside to wash up and when I came back out to leave for the evening it gave me another 8 second starter motor song before coming alive and never doing it again.

Could someone take some mercy on me and summarize what we know works to adequately prime the ecodiesel fuel system after a filter water separator draining?

I never took note of how much fuel I had in the tank after my previous drainings.

I’m going to make sure I’ve got a full tank this time as I’m sure that wouldn’t hurt things.

I’ll cycle the ignition through the Run position multiple times again.

I think I remember seeing someone note opening and closing the driver door during the priming process?

Heck, I’m willing to climb up on the roof and say three Hail Marys if it prevents these ticking timebomb fuel pumps from having to do anything out of the ordinary during simple routine maintenance.

Thanks to any charitable sole still reading this. ?
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CreepyJeepy

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Honestly, I have babied mine... Primed 10-15 times when I changed the filters, ran LX4 (which is even better than EDT), etc.

I pulled my fuel filter last time at 34k miles and there were very small metal flakes in the fuel at the bottom of the fuel filter assembly.

I was thinking to myself I must be over-reacting...

So 1 week later I pulled the fuel filter to check... This time there were less flakes (a lot less) as I had only driven 80 miles on the filter, but there were 4 tiny metal flakes floating around in the bottom of the cap.

Mine is starting a slow death... Not sure when it will die but it will...

I have gone to 4 different Jeep dealers and 1 Dodge dealer... All told me the same thing... Get rid of it....

I have trade in quotes from 2 Jeep dealers (that would actually take it on trade) and CarMax. The highest offer I have gotten is 40k and it's in MINT condition, Mopar lift, 35" tires, etc....

I am convinced additives are not the saving grace... It's just random.... As trust me I never missed a dose as I am showing signs of a failing CP4....

.........

I have 3 or 4 more days on these trade in offers, and have been researching what to get besides the gladiator... I can't seem to find anything I like, and m thinking I prob will just drive it until it nukes itself.

Jeep Cares wasn't much help, believe it or not, one of them told me to go to AutoZone and buy the 'Service Component' and take it to an 'Independent Repair Facility' and keep receipts...

lol .... Service Component....

...........

I also have called 3 local diesel shops. One of them did tell me about the CPX pump and it would likely solve this issue..... But they said they can't install it unless it has an "EPA number"....

This Diesel has caused me more stress than it's been worth... But I can't stomach losing 23k on a mint vehicle, but that's prob the way it will go....
 

Rusty PW

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I prime mine about 10 times for each filter change. The first 2 starts take a while for it to fire up. After that, it's fine.
 

Rusty PW

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Honestly, I have babied mine... Primed 10-15 times when I changed the filters, ran LX4 (which is even better than EDT), etc.

I pulled my fuel filter last time at 34k miles and there were very small metal flakes in the fuel at the bottom of the fuel filter assembly.

I was thinking to myself I must be over-reacting...

So 1 week later I pulled the fuel filter to check... This time there were less flakes (a lot less) as I had only driven 80 miles on the filter, but there were 4 tiny metal flakes floating around in the bottom of the cap.

Mine is starting a slow death... Not sure when it will die but it will...

I have gone to 4 different Jeep dealers and 1 Dodge dealer... All told me the same thing... Get rid of it....

I have trade in quotes from 2 Jeep dealers (that would actually take it on trade) and CarMax. The highest offer I have gotten is 40k and it's in MINT condition, Mopar lift, 35" tires, etc....

I am convinced additives are not the saving grace... It's just random.... As trust me I never missed a dose as I am showing signs of a failing CP4....

.........

I have 3 or 4 more days on these trade in offers, and have been researching what to get besides the gladiator... I can't seem to find anything I like, and m thinking I prob will just drive it until it nukes itself.

Jeep Cares wasn't much help, believe it or not, one of them told me to go to AutoZone and buy the 'Service Component' and take it to an 'Independent Repair Facility' and keep receipts...

lol .... Service Component....

...........

I also have called 3 local diesel shops. One of them did tell me about the CPX pump and it would likely solve this issue..... But they said they can't install it unless it has an "EPA number"....

This Diesel has caused me more stress than it's been worth... But I can't stomach losing 23k on a mint vehicle, but that's prob the way it will go....
Pull that sensor on the fuel pump to make sure that your pull is going south.
 

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Vtur

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It's was the same for me. Primed no less than 10 times. It took about 6 cringing seconds to started. Drove it for 5 miles, shut it down, and it took another few seconds to restarted.

I'm gonna pre-lubing the filter next time.
 

Rusty PW

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Not following ya here Rusty.
Couldn't think of the right name for it at the time. It's the fuel pressure regulator that sits between the 2 pistons on the pump. If it has crap on it, then yes your pump is failing.

Jeep Gladiator Proper priming 1696225928464

Jeep Gladiator Proper priming 1696226376465
 

CreepyJeepy

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Yep. I went to do that the other morning but it’s not easily accessible. It sits below a ton of hoses, wires, and plastic parts…

I would love to see it, but I don’t have a shop manual for tearing down the front of the ecodiesel.

Anybody have any tips?
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