Chasm
Well-Known Member
^^ This is the way.
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^^ This is the way.
That site is a bit deceiving in that they keep talking about maximum load capacity.^^ This is the way.
It really depends - if you go from a Sport 31-32" tire up to a 35 that's say 12" across, you have drastically changed that contact area and thus the PSI required to support the exact same vehicle.The contact patch is not THAT different from one tire size to another, within reason, but that's where any variance is.
No kidding. That's totally normal. That's why you do COLD PRESSURE CHECKS.don't freak if it goes higher on a sunny day or the highway.
I attempted the chalk test on my 37x12.5’s and it was a joke. Drove me nuts. I forget where I got the information. It may have been off of the graph but based on the new tire white rating, the ideal pressure for me was 29 psi and I ended up bumping it up to 31.OEM size tires... Use the pressure on the door sticker and adjust basis on how it feels when driving. Larger tires... Do the chalk test and adjust based on driving.
With Mojave takeoffs I shoot for 33 and don't freak if it goes higher on a sunny day or the highway.
Mine checked fine at a very large range of pressures. I gave up and called the company.I attempted the chalk test on my 37x12.5’s and it was a joke. Drove me nuts.
No, it doesn't work all the time and it's not precise, but it's a room to use in the absence of other information... which is why I said "adjust based on how it feels when driving." It'll usually get you in the ballpark.Some tires just don't do well with that method. It's hit and miss (but don't tell the chalk test gods that, they'll say it works perfect every time)
I run "skinnies and fats" on my Fairlane, so added to the large weight distribution difference I have to have a 6-7 lb difference.I should be running at least a pound or two heavier on the front