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Rattle from engine when accelerating (sounds like keys)

SelfmodJT

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The noise mine makes though is more of a crackling, bacon sizzling sound. Not really a rattle. And it only happens in short intermittent spurts, nothing prolonged.
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The programming does have high and low octane tables, sam goes for cam timing and ahift points. Not sure why they tell everyone 87 is good enough. Highwr ovtane is not a band-aid. It will activate better maps in the software
I swear I read in the manual that there is no benefit to running higher than 87 octane. Could 87 actually be considered the high octane fuel?
 

foo.c

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The noise mine makes though is more of a crackling, bacon sizzling sound. Not really a rattle. And it only happens in short intermittent spurts, nothing prolonged.
My Lexus made a very similar noise and it turned out to be a crack in the plastic radiator. Not sure if that helps/applies to this vehicle.
 

SelfmodJT

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My Lexus made a very similar noise and it turned out to be a crack in the plastic radiator. Not sure if that helps/applies to this vehicle.
Plastic radiator?
My Lexus made a very similar noise and it turned out to be a crack in the plastic radiator. Not sure if that helps/applies to this vehicle.
I dont think it's a radiator issue. I'm starting to think the noise I hear is excess gas burning in the cat and resonating down the exhaust. That's why I smell rotten eggs from the exhaust intermittently. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt.
 

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Plastic radiator?
OT, but yeah. The core is aluminum but the top and bottom were plastic. It sounded just like sizzling bacon when it would leak. I thought it was something electrical for a long time.
 

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Scrubb84

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They designed these 8speed autos to want to shift into 8th gear at 40mph for ‘fuel economy’ ratings (creating lugging conditions constantly for city/town driving)
how much you willing to bet that they dam well fully understand whats going on here and dont give a single F about it. To them... by the time most of these engines suffer catastrophic damage because of how they designed it to operate, warranties will be expired. Im willing to bet thats in the actual design somehow. “Just make em last long enough for those warranties to end. They will say Not our problem & btw we can sell you an overpriced garbage engine to replace yours. Yours probably blew up because you put 35” tires on and the stock 33’s wouldn’t have done that. So sorry. -FCA
 

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They designed these 8speed autos to want to shift into 8th gear at 40mph for ‘fuel economy’ ratings (creating lugging conditions constantly for city/town driving)
how much you willing to bet that they dam well fully understand whats going on here and dont give a single F about it. To them... by the time most of these engines suffer catastrophic damage because of how they designed it to operate, warranties will be expired. Im willing to bet thats in the actual design somehow. “Just make em last long enough for those warranties to end. They will say Not our problem & btw we can sell you an overpriced garbage engine to replace yours. Yours probably blew up because you put 35” tires on and the stock 33’s wouldn’t have done that. So sorry. -FCA
But then they'd still be screwed. Certified pre-owned have at least a 100,000 mile warranty. So anyone who trades early will be giving what likely will become a certified pre-owned vehicle back to Stellantis to warranty for another 40,000 miles. And I think you can even extend that warranty to 125k
 

Scrubb84

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But then they'd still be screwed. Certified pre-owned have at least a 100,000 mile warranty. So anyone who trades early will be giving what likely will become a certified pre-owned vehicle back to Stellantis to warranty for another 40,000 miles. And I think you can even extend that warranty to 125k
Point taken, here’s my outlook...
Call me crazy if u wish, but it certainly sounds like a good time to switch owners (buy/sell/rename the fca) to something like stellantis so when the time comes they can play the blame game and leave a ton of ppl with a blown engine to deal with out of pocket.
I’ll repost this in the future with the date highlighted. Lol
 

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My Lexus made a very similar noise and it turned out to be a crack in the plastic radiator. Not sure if that helps/applies to this vehicle.
It's quite possible some of these really ARE a rattle, especially if it sounds like the middle of the vehicle. Ping sounds caused by detonation or pre-ignition are in essence, sonic booms that resonate with the block and heads. That's why a knock sensor is in the block - or head, depending on engine.
There's a lot to rattle on these.
 

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Plastic radiator?
I dont think it's a radiator issue. I'm starting to think the noise I hear is excess gas burning in the cat and resonating down the exhaust. That's why I smell rotten eggs from the exhaust intermittently. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt.
That would make a converter REALLY hot.

Hydrogen sulfide is the smell normally and means the converter is bad or plugged and not converting the gases.
Too much fuel can do this -

Too much fuel won't generally cause ping because richer mixtures burn cooler than lean mixtures. Lean causes hot burns.

Jeep Gladiator Rattle from engine when accelerating (sounds like keys) detonation
 

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SelfmodJT

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That would make a converter REALLY hot.

Hydrogen sulfide is the smell normally and means the converter is bad or plugged and not converting the gases.
Too much fuel can do this -

Too much fuel won't generally cause ping because richer mixtures burn cooler than lean mixtures. Lean causes hot burns.

detonation.jpg
Ill see on thursday but i would imagine the o2 sensors would have set the cel off but who knows if its within the parameters. Ill let them deal with it, like i said its only at 6k miles so i have 54k on the motor and i believe the cat has a longer warranty? I think i read somewhere 8yrs or 80k miles?
 

SelfmodJT

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My only concern is long term, i really planned on keeping this till the wheels fall off as a recreational vehicle. I also planned to learn about this jeep inside out so i can attempt all the maintenance and repairs as long as i didnt have to take the engine apart ? i guess im getting a crash course.
 
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SelfmodJT

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I don't drive aggressively and I try to be mindful of how much fuel I'm using, so I generally shift around 3k..... which puts me around 2k on the next gear. This is also dependent on how quickly I need to get to a certain speed (more RPMs for quicker acceleration). But yes, to answer your question, I guess I do baby the engine.
Ok, i hope this works for a few of you guys. My jeep runs almost perfect now, of course if it lugs on a steep incline it will still have detonation. If you baby your engine, STOP. Also, have you guys that are having this issue done a wide open throttle on the highway yet? If not, DO IT. Obviously im not knowledgeable and experienced as some if not most on this forum but i can turn a wrench lol. After viewing and researching the 3.6 pentastar engine, what causes detonation, etc i decided to do a few wide open throttles on the highway. I did a few in 3rd gear and 4th gear reaching 5.5k to 6k rpms. After the 2 or 3 i noticed a considerable difference, so i did about 10 within a few days. So today i had no dentonation!!! And it was almost 100 degrees here in PA and i went on almost all the inclines in my area in 2nd gear with the starting rpms at 1.5k and no pinging!!! So i will let you know that i was running 93 octane because thats what i filled up last with because thats what people said to do. It helped initally, but after about a quater tank it was back to normal pinging. I finally burned all the 93 to about only a quater tank left and just filled it up with 87 octane and went back on all the inclines. NO DETONATION!!! I believe babying the engine and trying to drive the jeep in the lowest rpms to conserve gas made it run a little rich because the throttle was barely opened and never wide open. I think this may have caused a carbon build up and causing the pinging and also getting to my cat causing the sulfer smell. Again, im no expert or claim to be lol but it worked for me!! I believe the wide open throttles got rid of the carbon build up?
 

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Ok, i hope this works for a few of you guys. My jeep runs almost perfect now, of course if it lugs on a steep incline it will still have detonation. If you baby your engine, STOP. Also, have you guys that are having this issue done a wide open throttle on the highway yet? If not, DO IT. Obviously im not knowledgeable and experienced as some if not most on this forum but i can turn a wrench lol. After viewing and researching the 3.6 pentastar engine, what causes detonation, etc i decided to do a few wide open throttles on the highway. I did a few in 3rd gear and 4th gear reaching 5.5k to 6k rpms. After the 2 or 3 i noticed a considerable difference, so i did about 10 within a few days. So today i had no dentonation!!! And it was almost 100 degrees here in PA and i went on almost all the inclines in my area in 2nd gear with the starting rpms at 1.5k and no pinging!!! So i will let you know that i was running 93 octane because thats what i filled up last with because thats what people said to do. It helped initally, but after about a quater tank it was back to normal pinging. I finally burned all the 93 to about only a quater tank left and just filled it up with 87 octane and went back on all the inclines. NO DETONATION!!! I believe babying the engine and trying to drive the jeep in the lowest rpms to conserve gas made it run a little rich because the throttle was barely opened and never wide open. I think this may have caused a carbon build up and causing the pinging and also getting to my cat causing the sulfer smell. Again, im no expert or claim to be lol but it worked for me!! I believe the wide open throttles got rid of the carbon build up?
Tried and true "Italian tuneup".
 

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Tried and true "Italian tuneup".
A couple of years ago, investigating the JT and even trying to learn more about the 3.6 in my wife's recent string of Grand Cherokees, I ran across a couple of things out there - can't recall where, but a couple of long-time 3.6 owners both said "these engines need to be wound up now and then" meaning take them out and romp them, get into the higher RPM ranges and make them work at high RPM.

I've always done with with everything I've owned. Usually it's because that's just me, how I drive, and maybe it's partly because I was taught by old-timers that engines can build up deposits and varnishes on parts that if later pushed, ends up moving outside of the range of "normal travel" for that driver and engine and then things get into those deposits, that "varnish" and stick, or can't move as far as they should.
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