Rubicon Steering Stabilizer

[TrainMan]

I have the Fox TS stabilizer and Rancho track bar. I'm just waiting for my Synergy brace to come in so I can install everything at once. I noticed the steering loose when going over speed bumps. Also it wanders a bit at 40+ mph. After my lift I can tell the drivers side front axle sticks out a bit more. Needs recentered. I really can't wait. It doesn't drive terrible, but I know it could be improved. My Silverado has much firmer steering.

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[danielspivey]

Ive read the opposite on here. People having pulling issues with the IFP, but not with the TS, because it is neutrally-charged to not pull, only dampen. Plus, it’s designed exactly the same as the $500 ATS model, just without the adjustability. It’s preset to around the 12-13 click setting on the ATS, because that is where Fox found that most preferred the ATS set to.

IFP is neutrally charged also. I tried all 3 Fox and ended up going with the IFP. Was very under impressed with the ATS... could barely notice the difference. A guy at my local shop said the TS shaft was more likely to fail because of the two seals. The IFP has the one.

many people through the IFP on and don’t “charge” it correctly. If this isn’t done it can result in a pull to one side.

 

[danielspivey]

Is it really worth upgrading it tho? What does it really help? Sorry new to the Jeep world.

IFP for $160, absolutely. ATS... not at all. Hey that’s my opinion tho.. I tried all 3.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Stick to your IFP...I'm happy with my TS 2.0.

When I could get a better-designed product for only $50 more (at the time I bought mine), why not?

 

[danielspivey]

Stick to your IFP...I'm happy with my TS 2.0.

When I could get a better-designed product for only $50 more (at the time I bought mine), why not?

Well currently they $120 bucks apart (290-170=120), and I tired both, and had better result with the IFP. Also most get the Clayton relocation bracket, which is another 60 or so by the time you pay taxes and shipping.

Also, one could totally argue with the designed product angle.... I like the direct OEM fit of the IFP, the TS has those sketchy, Small, low torque bolts where it mounts. They now recommend using lock tight to hold that thing together. Better designed...? Hmmm, that could be debated.

But glad you like your set up!

 

[danielspivey]

Stick to your IFP...I'm happy with my TS 2.0.

When I could get a better-designed product for only $50 more (at the time I bought mine), why not?

FYI, Also your post:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-after-fox-steering-stabilizer-install.30081/

Is spreading misinformation. They are both neutrally charged. Who ever you talked to at Fox must have been on crack and talking about a shock... which the push is unidirectional. For them to tell someone a stabilizer is made to pull to one side is ridiculous.

All steering stabilizers, despite the brand are neutrally charged. They are meant to go in directions with no push or pull. If it doesn’t... send it back. That’s what happened to the ATS I got. pushed slowly outward even when primed. Fox took it back. Yep, $440 stabalizer!

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Well currently they $120 bucks apart (290-170=120), and I tired both, and had better result with the IFP. Also most get the Clayton relocation bracket, which is another 60 or so by the time you pay taxes and shipping.

Also, one could totally argue with the designed product angle.... I like the direct OEM fit of the IFP, the TS has those sketchy, Small, low torque bolts where it mounts. They now recommend using lock tight to hold that thing together. Better designed...? Hmmm, that could be debated.

But glad you like your set up!

I paid $218 for my TS 2.0... That's only $60 difference between your $160 price, and my $220 price that I paid.

You keep calling them "sketchy" bolts... You've obviously never installed or purchased them, if you keep stating that, or you wouldn't keep calling them that, unless you're just trying to push an agenda based on your own personal bias. Those bolts are more than adequate given the stubbed design that the bracket fits into on the stabilizer itself that takes all the impact and force. It's more than strong enough.

When I said "better designed" I was referencing the stabilizer itself, not the mounting.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

FYI, Also your post:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-after-fox-steering-stabilizer-install.30081/

Is spreading misinformation. They are both neutrally charged. Who ever you talked to at Fox must have been on crack and talking about a shock... which the push is unidirectional. For them to tell someone a stabilizer is made to pull to one side is ridiculous.

All steering stabilizers, despite the brand are neutrally charged. They are meant to go in directions with no push or pull. If it doesn’t... send it back. That’s what happened to the ATS I got. pushed slowly outward even when primed. Fox took it back. Yep, $440 stabalizer!

I talked to the guy who DESIGNED them. I think he knows his products... But whatever... Once again, back to your personal vendetta against me. Sad and pathetic man... It really is. Also, I never said it was meant to pull to one side...I said it wasn't neutrally-charged by design. You're the one spreading misinformation trying to change my words to make me look like I'm the one who is wrong.

The TS is neutrally-charged by design. The IFP is charged (being a sealed unit) it has to be set into a neutral position, but it is still charged...It has to be, being a sealed-unit.

 

[danielspivey]

I talked to the guy who DESIGNED them. I think he knows his products... But whatever... Once again, back to your personal vendetta against me. Sad and pathetic man... It really is. Also, I never said it was meant to pull to one side...I said it wasn't neutrally-charged by design. You're the one spreading misinformation trying to change my words to make me look like I'm the one who is wrong.

The TS is neutrally-charged by design. The IFP is charged (being a sealed unit) it has to be set into a neutral position, but it is still charged...It has to be, being a sealed-unit.

Nice once again, no personal attacks, we disagree sometimes.... is what it is. I like and prefer 17s, you like and prefer 20s, I still think your Jeep looks great.

We both got different info, that happens quite frequently with big companies. But the charged to push in one direction doesn’t make sense. If so ... the stock ones, same design would push one way, and people would issues with them pulling to one side while going down the road.

I had the best experience with the IFP, and it was cheaper. Right now the current price is well over $100 difference, nice you got that deal.

I’m putting this in the I agree that we disagree category.

 

[danielspivey]

I paid $218 for my TS 2.0... That's only $60 difference between your $160 price, and my $220 price that I paid.

You keep calling them "sketchy" bolts... You've obviously never installed or purchased them, if you keep stating that, or you wouldn't keep calling them that, unless you're just trying to push an agenda based on your own personal bias. Those bolts are more than adequate given the stubbed design that the bracket fits into on the stabilizer itself that takes all the impact and force. It's more than strong enough.

When I said "better designed" I was referencing the stabilizer itself, not the mounting.

A 1/4” bolt to Torqued to 12 lbs with lock tight holding a stabilizer together which takes the brunt of bumps in the steering going down the road is sketchy to me sorry. Yes that’s my opinion. Quadratec said they initially had issues which is why they added this lock tight verbiage:

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Nice once again, no personal attacks, we disagree sometimes.... is what it is. I like and prefer 17s, you like and prefer 20s, I still think your Jeep looks great.

We both got different info, that happens quite frequently with big companies. But the charged to push in one direction doesn’t make sense. If so ... the stock ones, same design would push one way, and people would issues with them pulling to one side while going down the road.

I had the best experience with the IFP, and it was cheaper. Right now the current price is well over $100 difference, nice you got that deal.

I’m putting this in the I agree that we disagree category.

What it is, is that being a monotube design (think how shocks work) something has to be pushing and pulling inside that sealed unit. No matter which way you slice it, or where you put the valve inside of it. There will be air trapped inside a sealed unit that has to be worked out to reach neutral buoyancy...Which is why they say you have to turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times to release all the trapped air to achieve neutrality. The TS (being a pass-through neutral design doesn't have any air trapped inside of it.

I guess I should have explained it a bit clearer, but I didn't. That's my fault.

 

[danielspivey]

A

What it is, is that being a monotone design (think how shocks work) something has to be pushing and pulling inside that sealed unit. No matter which way you slice it, or where you put the valve inside of it. There will be air trapped inside a sealed unit that has to be worked out to reach neutral buoyancy...Which is why they say you have to turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times to release all the trapped air to achieve neutrality. The TS (being a pass-through neutral design doesn't have any air trapped inside of it.

I guess I should have explained it a bit clearer, but I didn't. That's my fault.

so in theory Isn’t that true for the IFP and TS? The ATS fixes that by having the by pass or whatever they call it?

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

1/4” bolt with lock tight holding a stabilizer together which takes the brunt of bumps in the steering going down the road is sketchy to me sorry. Yes that’s my opinion. Quadratec said they initially had issues which is why they added this lock tight verbiage:

The bolts don't hold any pressure, or take any force. If you look at that top picture, you will see that tennon that sticks out from the shock bracket. It goes directly INTO the mounting bracket (and fits REALLY tight by the way), between the 2 small screws. That solid metal tennon is what takes all the force, and not the screws. The screws simply hold the 2 brackets together from top to bottom...That's it. There's no force on them, other than being torqued to spec that's holding holding the brackets tight. Could they have used some larger screws? Sure... I wouldn't complain if they did (overkill means safety to me), but I feel that those are adequate being that they don't take on any force at all, other than holding the 2 brackets together.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

A


so in theory Isn’t that true for the IFP and TS? The ATS fixes that by having the by pass or whatever they call it?

The TS is the exact same item as the ATS. Same exact design as each other. The only difference is the ATS has an adjustable valve. That's it. The IFP is a monotube design. It's built like a shock absorber, whereas the TS and ATS are their own animal.

 

[DHP]

No, no jacks required. Do it sitting right there on the ground. Super simple. Took me about 15 minutes laying on my back on a gravel driveway with a 3/8" impact driver and socket set.

Is an impact driver required? Planning on doing this to mine as well. Hoping I have the necessary sockets already and won’t have to have an impact driver. I do have a large torque wrench though

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