downtroddengoat
Well-Known Member
I don't really want to add an amp. I know that if I need a bit more bass, that will not likely hold-up. LOL The question will be will just the sub be enough....
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DAVECS1
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Even though crutchfield says these don't fit, they do. They are a but they don't rattle and sound phenomenal. I replaced my kenwoods 3.5s with these in the sound bar and the dash and I run the JL audio 6" sub box. I really dig the sound and have had more than a couple compliments, at normal volume, people just riding in the car and noticing the music. Thinking about replacing the 4 inch in the spund bar with a JL audio component midrange.
rraya10
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So after reading up a bit I decided to get the Infinity Reference 3.5s for the corner dash AND for the soundbar. They should be here in the next couple of days. But after reading your posts this might be overkill? What are your thoughts on this? I will also be replacing the 4" speakers later down the line and possibly a better amp. If need be, a better sub too.
For reference, I'm in my early 20s and like my music up for hip-hop/R&B/rap.
downtroddengoat
Well-Known Member
There are two things that I did and as such I cannot actually give a definitive answer as to causation. Someone on the JL forums noted that the Infinity Reference Speakers needed a break in period. Given the initial sound, I was also concerned that I might have reversed polarity after hearing how common it was to find the polarity reversed when using the metra adapters. I didn't bother to check with the volt/ohm meter when I put them in. So I pulled them out and checked the polarity ( i had switched one when I installed it based on color and luckily ended up correct!) When I did this, I also installed a ton of poly fill in the dash pockets. That was about 10 plus hours of having the speakers on. So whether it was the polyfill or break in period, I cannot tell you. But I know it provided a clearer soundstage and I didn't have to turn it up as loud to make sure I heard everything.
I installed the JLJT Pods this weekend. I bought the 6.5 60csx Kappa's but could not make them fit, as the housing was too big to fit deep enough into where the 4 inch speaker was before. I then ended up getting the 6.5 Infinity Reference component speakers. took out the port tube, the 3.5's and the 4's. Stuffed the bar with Polyfill and put sound deadening on the JLJT Pods and around where the speaker and plastic came together. I forgot the gasket for the JLJT pods, but I can say i was really surprised at the result and glad I did it. I can hear much more detail at a much lower level than before and with the right music and source, the base is better. I am generally pretty happy with it right now. Since I cannot return the Kappas, I may try to figure out if I can use the woofer In the knee pod area.
The only downside is that the soundbar speakers are not flush with the bar and as such it isn't as seamless. But I wasn't willing to cut up the soundbar so.... I did try one side without poly fill on the soundbar before bolting everything in and between that and the sound deadening material -- it was a huge difference.
AS AN ASIDE....
I had to switch the adapters for the driver's side. In plugging the adapter in out of the package, both speakers on the drivers' side were then reverse polarity. It was raining and I didn't check the factory wiring, but given that the speakers are not labeled r and L, I wonder if the polarity was either accidentally reversed or whether it was reversed on purpose to make the soundbar more efficient and to better utilize the ports?
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downtroddengoat
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Yes. The crossovers are still in packaging. I have had it up to about 27 to 30 and didn't have any issues.
SargeDiesel
Well-Known Member
I realize this post is a little dated, not sure if you can remember back... but I used your diagram when installing my speakers and passed it along to help someone else and now they have pointed out that your diagram is opposite of the Factory Diagram (Premium System).... Do you remember where you got your original diagram information ? attached the factory diagram.JTR 8.4Uconnect. I swapped both upper front dash and both soundbar 3.5" speakers with four Kenwood eXcelon KFC-X3C 3.5" Mid Range Speakers for Chrysler/Toyota/Others, 50 RMS Max Power (Pair) using the metra 72-7902 adapters. The sound is noticeably crisper with more depth from the front than with the factory 3.5".
Sharing a couple of things I learned if it helps anybody. The metra adapter wiring (polarity) was aligned correctly with my factory wiring harness in the dash and in the soundbar, meaning I did not need to flip the wires in the metra adapter (as is the case for many JL/JT owners) to maintain the existing polarity. Here's a wiring diagram I created, keep in mind the 8.4Uconnect uses a different factory wiring harness with differently colored wires than the other system levels.
Note, I did not use the crossover provided with the Kenwood speakers.
phranican
Well-Known Member
I created the diagram by opening up my 2021 JTR and polarity testing the factory speakers.I realize this post is a little dated, not sure if you can remember back... but I used your diagram when installing my speakers and passed it along to help someone else and now they have pointed out that your diagram is opposite of the Factory Diagram (Premium System).... Do you remember where you got your original diagram information ? attached the factory diagram.
Chocolyle
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So I wanted to offer some help/education on audio upgrades. I used to do Car Audio professionally years ago and still do some home and professional audio today, though mostly video and access ciontrol.
If you are looking for an easy to adapt amp with tons of power, look at the Audio Control LC5.1300. Speaker level input and line level, if you ever upgrade the head unit. 20% more real wolrd power than rated.
There are not many amps out there that come close to their rated output let alone above based on dyno tests. A bonus with the AC LC5.1300 is the built in speaker level input. Williston Labs does have some dyno tests of other amps including JL, Rockford etc and you would be suprised who hits and who limps.
Also, remember when a speaker is rated for "X" watts, the head unit built in amp, even the upgraded factory amp is still only putting out "X" watts RMS. You are getting better sound because you have better speakers. Real tweeters and better mid range. You are not going to make it much louder in measured DB, you have not changed the engine.
3 1/2" speakers are only going to be mid range drivers. Example: The only time you would get decent bass out of small, 4 1/2" drivers would be in the case of the Bose 901 series. Special enclosure, special drivers. Won't fit in a car. We used to have an old saying for Bose in the industry though, "No highs, no lows, must be Bose." The 901 were still impressive for what they were.
Yes, some of the small pod style units like Apple and Googles devices sound bassy but you don't feel it. Special driver, special enclosure and cross over. The 3 1/2" in an open air enclosure of the upper dash is not it. Though Jeep did do some neat porting on the sound bar enclosure and the lower dash speaker enclosure. They tried to do what they can with what they had.
Speaking of size and sound, depending on your budget of course, but components are the way to go. Unless you understand freaquency, impedance and know how to build crossovers, USE the factory crossover! You can always remote locate the crossover in components. My fronts are behind the passenger kick panel and below the steering wheel. What you get is the top level sound. These are true full range speakers, normally in a 5 1/2"-6 1/2" mid bass (See the MID BASS there) and a real tweeter. Rare now but sometime you will find a 3-way component set up. Mid Bass, MidRange (3 1/2" driver typical) and tweeter. For the money, what you get is better power handling, better sound stage and excellent mid bass. Something 3 1/2" or 4" speakers just won't do "well".
Not something you need to go with, but will give the best results. An aftermarket amp will also give you great results, even with coaxil speakers, just know the limitations of drivers sizes.
As for subs, they need power and they need specific sized enclosures to work correctly. There are pre-made subs and enclosures that will fit un the seat and behind the seat. Behind is reare but they are out there. I built mine with a shallow mount sub, 10" Dual Voice coil, fiber glass enclosure. I would not recommend replacing the factory sub driver. You will spend a lot of money for a driver that is not designed for the enclosure then blow it. I cannot stress enough, if you want better sound, get a real amp if you can. The factory "Upgraded" Alpine is a silly marketing thing. Does it work, sure, sorry just not great for the money it cost. It's a mess, needed to get the truck back together.
Keep in mind, there are still car audio specialist around, they do exist still. Best Buy is NOT a reputible car audio dealer!! Look up you local dealers, not only can you see/hear various equipment but they can install, recommend based on your budget and provide a pathway to grow as you want. Custom enclosures as well.
Now before I see the comment that the amp, speakers etc are wicked expensive, a reminder you could have bought a Prius or Tacoma for less money.
If you are looking for an easy to adapt amp with tons of power, look at the Audio Control LC5.1300. Speaker level input and line level, if you ever upgrade the head unit. 20% more real wolrd power than rated.
There are not many amps out there that come close to their rated output let alone above based on dyno tests. A bonus with the AC LC5.1300 is the built in speaker level input. Williston Labs does have some dyno tests of other amps including JL, Rockford etc and you would be suprised who hits and who limps.
Also, remember when a speaker is rated for "X" watts, the head unit built in amp, even the upgraded factory amp is still only putting out "X" watts RMS. You are getting better sound because you have better speakers. Real tweeters and better mid range. You are not going to make it much louder in measured DB, you have not changed the engine.
3 1/2" speakers are only going to be mid range drivers. Example: The only time you would get decent bass out of small, 4 1/2" drivers would be in the case of the Bose 901 series. Special enclosure, special drivers. Won't fit in a car. We used to have an old saying for Bose in the industry though, "No highs, no lows, must be Bose." The 901 were still impressive for what they were.
Yes, some of the small pod style units like Apple and Googles devices sound bassy but you don't feel it. Special driver, special enclosure and cross over. The 3 1/2" in an open air enclosure of the upper dash is not it. Though Jeep did do some neat porting on the sound bar enclosure and the lower dash speaker enclosure. They tried to do what they can with what they had.
Speaking of size and sound, depending on your budget of course, but components are the way to go. Unless you understand freaquency, impedance and know how to build crossovers, USE the factory crossover! You can always remote locate the crossover in components. My fronts are behind the passenger kick panel and below the steering wheel. What you get is the top level sound. These are true full range speakers, normally in a 5 1/2"-6 1/2" mid bass (See the MID BASS there) and a real tweeter. Rare now but sometime you will find a 3-way component set up. Mid Bass, MidRange (3 1/2" driver typical) and tweeter. For the money, what you get is better power handling, better sound stage and excellent mid bass. Something 3 1/2" or 4" speakers just won't do "well".
Not something you need to go with, but will give the best results. An aftermarket amp will also give you great results, even with coaxil speakers, just know the limitations of drivers sizes.
As for subs, they need power and they need specific sized enclosures to work correctly. There are pre-made subs and enclosures that will fit un the seat and behind the seat. Behind is reare but they are out there. I built mine with a shallow mount sub, 10" Dual Voice coil, fiber glass enclosure. I would not recommend replacing the factory sub driver. You will spend a lot of money for a driver that is not designed for the enclosure then blow it. I cannot stress enough, if you want better sound, get a real amp if you can. The factory "Upgraded" Alpine is a silly marketing thing. Does it work, sure, sorry just not great for the money it cost. It's a mess, needed to get the truck back together.
Keep in mind, there are still car audio specialist around, they do exist still. Best Buy is NOT a reputible car audio dealer!! Look up you local dealers, not only can you see/hear various equipment but they can install, recommend based on your budget and provide a pathway to grow as you want. Custom enclosures as well.
Now before I see the comment that the amp, speakers etc are wicked expensive, a reminder you could have bought a Prius or Tacoma for less money.
Last edited:
SargeDiesel
Well-Known Member
Sounds good ! I doubt with our system setup, the polarity of the dash speakers would make much of a difference anyway... Someone had mentioned if your sound seemed on the high midrange side that you might have the polarity reversed and then the person pointing out the reversal between your and the factory diagram ... I just cant remember exactly how I hooked mine up..... lol I guess if it really bothers me I can use a multimeter to know for sure. Thanks again !
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