The 3.6 Tick Bites Trail Recon at 31,000 Miles

[JTGuy]

What about Bestline oil additive ? Just another snake oil?

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[ShadowsPapa]

If you stand behind that video, that you, yourself attached as evidence, then so be it. I disagree and in fact, your video explains why. Know you're sayin that your "scientist" doesn't know basic concepts of air-cooled engines? That you did your research "in the past"? Well, its 2025 baby and when you changed your avatar to a Kitten with a gun I knew you had finally snapped Pops

You are obviously a newcomer to forums or you would realize that cat with gun goes back decades, to when it was made with ASCII characters. It's been used by a lot of people for a lot of years.

Air cooled lawn mower engines haven't changed since the 1960s when they went aluminum block and head. It's all the same principle.
At ager 14, I ran the established small engine guy out of business, pissed him off to the point he was getting nasty, because I was taking work from him - at 16 I was authorized by Briggs, Techumseh, and Jacobsen for warranty work and considered an official dealer/shop. (then I branched out into cars as our high school paper showed back then)
So yeah, I know a thing or 10 about them.
The only thing that has changed, thanks to CA laws here, is the fact they tend to run them leaner and have taken away manual chokes and mixture adjustments on most (except chain saws, trimmers and so on)

Yes, I would absolutely challenge the bit on the temperature differences and suggest he run some other tests - including starting out with more identical engines, making sure they were totally cleaned out as far as all air passages, measure the RPM of each and take it a step farther because he really proved nothing related to temperature in the video it was more of an assumption.
Run them for several minutes after actually making sure there were no insest nests, grass debris and so on in the cooling fins. Establish they are running the same RPM, same load and the same temperatures prior to introducing any additives.

This is one video I would indeed call him on.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ran it in a 2006 Charger Daytona, 5.7L Hemi with dual Nos Nitrous Kits and ran it very hard. Still running great today with 352,000 clicks on her. So sorry I don't have your vast experience as a mechanic as a crutch...just got my own experience and a clear fearless mind

You've shown it did no harm. That's about it.
There's a lot of stories about such vehicles out there, and some say "it's because I use xyz oil", when others have the same "luck" with something different.

I think this will be a fun topic to bring up at our street rod/Good guys gathering on Tuesday morning! Let's see how it goes.

 

[StevieY1]

This is the video YOU gave us Papa! Call him out and then post somethin. Sheeshters. Haha, nice to know your in Cali though and sad to know about your preoccupation with guns. Don't feel safe huh?

 

[StevieY1]

You've shown it did no harm. That's about it.
There's a lot of stories about such vehicles out there, and some say "it's because I use xyz oil", when others have the same "luck" with something different.

I think this will be a fun topic to bring up at our street rod/Good guys gathering on Tuesday morning! Let's see how it goes.

I will be most interested to hear your carefully filtered replies! haha Gotta go, you're pushin me toward a ban

 

[StevieY1]

Bestoil additive reply: Went to their website - they have a link to Bob the Oil guy that might be helpful...can't comment more till I read through that...I like to do a little research before I post.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What about Bestline oil additive ? Just another snake oil?

Some actually act as "cleaners" helping in the detergent area. I'd suspect that's the case with this one. We can experience sticky or sluggish phasers, lash adjusters and so on, and I've seen "add it once, run it and change the oil" additives actually clean and quiet things down.
Some say it's just a PAO base oil - so if you run the proper oil you may not gain much or anything.
But I have had my luck with "cleaners" working to help break up sludgy deposits. But beware - you may want to do an oil and filter change.
A lot of engine owners across the board - GM, Ford, HONDA and others, have talked about things getting gummed up. NOT just Jeep/FCA.
For some, it may not matter a lick - others, not so much.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bestoil additive reply: Went to their website - they have a link to Bob the Oil guy that might be helpful...can't comment more till I read through that...I like to do a little research before I post.

That may be the one where people are asking - "uh, so what is it supposed to have done?"

There will always be believers, those who buy off infomercials, hear the old stories, or about some miracle engine and so on.
Use the best oil you can, take care of it, don't BABY it and don't try to keep it under 3,000 RPM all the time.

Mine hits 3,000-4,000 pretty much every single drive. It's not flat around here, it's often windy, and if you don't try to merge in around here, they will literally close up and prevent you from getting in. Iowa drivers suck, ask those from NY, CA, or even Toronto. I tracked things last night and it hit over 3,000 - into the 4,000s at least 10 times going to church and back (a 25 miles, 30 minute trip each way).

I use recommended oils, or something like Mobil 1, the best Pennzoil, whatever, and drive like I have always driven everything. Even my built-up 4.0 hits near redline now and then.
When I build one, I take it out, follow the proper break-in procedure for the rings (a half dozen heavy throttle, no lugging but no unloaded WOT) runs from say 20 to 60, heavily load it without lugging to force the rings out hard. Then - I drive it like normal. I've told every customer - vary the speed for the first few hundred, don't use cruise, don't lug it, don't do WOT runs without load, after that, just drive it (don't baby it)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Haha, nice to know your in Cali though and sad to know about your preoccupation with guns.

IA, not CA. I turned down a very lucritive job with Symantec years ago because it required a move to Kalifornia. No, no way. There's a lot of beauty there, a lot of GREAT people, but nope.

I own two firesticks - no preoccupation. The preoccupation is with CATS.
That kitten is stalking a squirrel. (or maybe a bunny - uh, sorry, Hootbro)
My pew-pews are to protect property from rabid varmints and protect the wrens from invasive sparrows. (and destructive chipmunks - they cost thousands of dollars due to the damage they do), raccoons and so on.

Gotta go, you're pushin me toward a ban

Can't imagine the mods being THAT hard-core!

I'll report back exactly what is said - like I always do.

 

[Hootbro]

Slick 50 is a product who's only endorsement is that your engine has not blown up yet from it. Like having unprotected sex with prostitutes but have not contracted a STD to date. Not exactly a best practice.

What is it on, like it's 4th reformulation and 3rd set of owners that is chucked to the next owner when the FTC and multiple class action lawsuits make it too hot to keep?

After close to 40+ years on the market, It is all sorted now though right? Is there any commercial engine builders that recommend the product?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Slick 50 is a product who's only endorsement is that your engine has not blown up yet from it. Like having unprotected sex with prostitutes but have not contracted a STD to date. Not exactly a best practice.

What is it on, like it's 4th reformulation and 3rd set of owners that is chucked to the next owner when the FTC and multiple class action lawsuits make it too hot to keep?

After close to 40+ years on the market, It is all sorted now though right? Is there any commercial engine builders that recommend the product?

But now it touts CERAMIC!

 

[StevieY1]

Hootbro, did you watch Papa's video? Note the part where the guy measures the temps and grudgingly admits that it might actually be working - hahaha, ..also, there are 30M of us that continue to use the product worldwide. FInally, yes, its on its 4th formulation...that is called progress and product development...I'm curious; are you still using regular engine oil or have you gone to synthetic? It is 2025 and just for fun, see if there are any subsequent FTC issues once they settled in 1 9 9 7 ( almost 3 decades ago ) for tootin their own horn a bit too much for the FTC's liking - which is a characteristic on almost all advertising DUT? Get back to us on a few of those asks while I try to find a commercial engine builder that swears by the stuff k?

 

[Charles 236]

I tried the "dry run" test several years ago on a 3.6 Classic Pentastar (no Variable Valve Lift). The engine was condemned by an aftermarket warranty company for noise, and another tech pulled the upper intake manifold, a valve cover and the oil pan. Then the repair order came to me, with instructions to replace, not repair, the engine. Since it was on the opposite side and end of the of the shop, I decided to drive it. Yes, the Classic Pentastar will run on three cylinders, even without the upper intake. The total distance was not far, a little under a quarter mile, but I drove it. When I started up the tech who pulled it apart tried to get me to stop for fear that the engine would be damaged. I didn't care, I was replacing it anyway. It ran long enough, without an oil pan, to drive around the building, and into the bay. So, I have no concerns for the oiling system on these engines. The bearings and bottom end are pretty well bulletproof, and top end failure also is rare.

 

[StevieY1]

I tried the "dry run" test several years ago on a 3.6 Classic Pentastar (no Variable Valve Lift). The engine was condemned by an aftermarket warranty company for noise, and another tech pulled the upper intake manifold, a valve cover and the oil pan. Then the repair order came to me, with instructions to replace, not repair, the engine. Since it was on the opposite side and end of the of the shop, I decided to drive it. Yes, the Classic Pentastar will run on three cylinders, even without the upper intake. The total distance was not far, a little under a quarter mile, but I drove it. When I started up the tech who pulled it apart tried to get me to stop for fear that the engine would be damaged. I didn't care, I was replacing it anyway. It ran long enough, without an oil pan, to drive around the building, and into the bay. So, I have no concerns for the oiling system on these engines. The bearings and bottom end are pretty well bulletproof, and top end failure also is rare.

Yeah and I think all sane persons on this board would agree that a "dry run test" is oxymoronical. In other words, it will fail in all circumstances so it is not proving anything.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

FInally, yes, its on its 4th formulation...that is called progress and product development..

LOL - really? They go from teflon to this chemical to that chemical, and keep trying things, the company gets passed around, cease and desist orders and it's nothing at all like the first iteration.
At least our engine oil still has the same basics, just improved versions of the same basics.
I can't see comparing the two at all.

I tried the "dry run" test several years ago on a 3.6 Classic Pentastar (no Variable Valve Lift). The engine was condemned by an aftermarket warranty company for noise, and another tech pulled the upper intake manifold, a valve cover and the oil pan. Then the repair order came to me, with instructions to replace, not repair, the engine. Since it was on the opposite side and end of the of the shop, I decided to drive it. Yes, the Classic Pentastar will run on three cylinders, even without the upper intake. The total distance was not far, a little under a quarter mile, but I drove it. When I started up the tech who pulled it apart tried to get me to stop for fear that the engine would be damaged. I didn't care, I was replacing it anyway. It ran long enough, without an oil pan, to drive around the building, and into the bay. So, I have no concerns for the oiling system on these engines. The bearings and bottom end are pretty well bulletproof, and top end failure also is rare.

When I was in the AMC shop decades ago, a couple came in with their 232 Rambler. They had drive out to CA from IA, and then back again. Half-way back through NE, the guy said it made sort of a funny noise, there was a slight lurch, and then from there it just never seemed to have the same power it always had.
Keep in mind, this happened in the middle of NE and we were in the middle of IA - and he DROVE it to our shop.
Boss told me to figure out the misfire and uneven idle. I was doing the normal to find which cylinder was not carrying its load and I noticed a wet oil streak down the side of the block. Hmm, there's a bulge in the block on the right side.
They had thrown - I seem to recall, #3 rod and it had made a nice crack in the block.
So, you know how I6 engines oil - how they are fed from one end to the other and so on. You lose a rod, you now have a wide open oil passage in the crankshaft - oil dumping out the center of the crankcase, no real oil pressure to some parts of the engine. It's a huge oiling leak inside.
The old couple said it wasn't worth the money fixing so they gave us the car.
My boss clears out the the corner of the shop and back the car into the corner. He takes a brick and sets it on the accelerator after starting it.
That engine screamed and screamed, WOT, for several minutes - until Andy got bored and took off the brick and shut it down. We parted the car to salvage several others - I used the B pillar and part of the rocker area to rebuild a t-boned wagon, other stuff was used as well.
Even with nothing for oil pressure, a tossed rod, busted block, that little engine wouldn't blow the rest of the way.

I suspect we could have some real fun LOL!

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