Threedom Fob Assembly Causing Inoperative Remote

[sharpsicle]

Strange issue that I've never experienced before.

Went to replace the battery in my S+ fob, and it wasn't transmitting after replacement. After a lot of messing around, I found out that it works just fine until the fob is completely snapped closed. Here's what I'm talking about:

Remote works just fine:

Remote stops working:

Seems it might be putting pressure on a spot it's not supposed to? Anyone have any ideas?

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[DC3]

I don't have that version handy but its got to be something with the battery placement where it's binding and not making contact when pushed closed.

Here is a photo of a similar model. Can you make sure the battery is fully seated. maybe provide a photo or two of the battery in place before assembly?

 

[sharpsicle]

From the design, there's really nowhere for the battery to go, and there's a tab that holds it in place as well. To stop making contact, it would have to shift so far that the remote wouldn't be able to close at all.

 

[DC3]

I didn't read the entire post but now see you have the S+, same as mine. We've had a few rare cases where the + battery contactor was bent outward resulting in erratic contact but I can't envision how closing the fob would negatively impact that. However, the issue has to be a battery connection that is somehow influenced by the fob closure.

This is the first time we've (Threedom) heard of this particular situation.

 

[Hootbro]

I think the boss for the cover half screw hole may be pushing the spring tab out on the battery contact.

 

[sharpsicle]

I think the boss for the cover half screw hole may be pushing the spring tab out on the battery contact.

I thought you hit the nail on the head, until I looked at it again and realized that since this is a photo of the remote insides, they're mirror images. So the screw bossing on the right "cover half" actually lines up just next to the key ring holder on the "left half".

I am stumped. The more I mess with it, the problem definitely lies in the bottom battery area of the remote. If I snap the top together, it works, and it continues to work until I make my way all the way down to the bottom and do the final "snap", then it stops.

 

[DC3]

I think the boss for the cover half screw hole may be pushing the spring tab out on the battery contact.

With the darkness of the photo and lack of contrast, it's difficult to make sense of the details. I modified the photo by lightening and adding contrast. The screw bosses on the front and back half are designed to mate face to face. The boss design on the back half above the face is "chamfered " to ensure if the spring is against the side of the opposing boss, there is minimal interference. I manipulated my spring and circuit board placement in every way I could to replicate @sharpsicle's experience but have been unsuccessful. I also reviewed the design models and couldn't identify an obvious culprit.

It's difficult to compare the two photos because but it appears the spring may be deflected where it attaches to the board at the lower left, maybe extending beyond the board? I circled the area in blue. It might just appear deflected because of the angle of the photo.

If I had the fob in hand and couldn't identify where the source of binding was, I would mark the potential offending surfaces with lipstick or teflon paste to determine interference on the opposing surface.

The good thing is that the fob originally worked, so obviously, something happened during the battery replacement to cause the erratic function.

 

[sharpsicle]

With the darkness of the photo and lack of contrast, it's difficult to make sense of the details. I modified the photo by lightening and adding contrast. The screw bosses on the front and back half are designed to mate face to face. The boss design on the back half above the face is "chamfered " to ensure if the spring is against the side of the opposing boss, there is minimal interference. I manipulated my spring and circuit board placement in every way I could to replicate @sharpsicle's experience but have been unsuccessful. I also reviewed the design models and couldn't identify an obvious culprit.

It's difficult to compare the two photos because but it appears the spring may be deflected where it attaches to the board at the lower left, maybe extending beyond the board? I circled the area in blue. It might just appear deflected because of the angle of the photo.

If I had the fob in hand and couldn't identify where the source of binding was, I would mark the potential offending surfaces with lipstick or teflon paste to determine interference on the opposing surface.

The good thing is that the fob originally worked, so obviously, something happened during the battery replacement to cause the erratic function.

This is great info. Let me take a look at these things.

I'm having a thought here that aligns with all this. The battery for this FOB was depleting extremely quickly which is why I'm back in here replacing it. I wonder if a short of some kind due to what you're describing was draining it before, and now that short is preventing operation entirely.

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