Under rear seat electrical setup

[Like_coffee]

I can wire a whole house in AC but I'm a complete novice in regards to DC systems.

After cramming as much info as I could, I figured I crossed a threshold to get started on developing an under seat power solution that will eventually hopefully power a Starlink connected overland setup. I know many might think it's counterintuitive to remain connected in remote areas, but for me it will mean I can travel to far away places for weeks at a time and actually enjoy those areas when I get there as I can work remotely. Otherwise we spend days traveling just to turn around when we get there because I need to get back to work.

I'm hoping someone with more experience can chime in on my proposed setup. I have everything in the pictures ready to go in an Amazon cart (dimensions were an important factor due to limited space).

Overview/planned equipment:
-JCR underseat storage (Molle cut outs should provide airflow)
- Redarc BCDC1225D
- 12v 100ah LiFePO4 Battery (the one ordered will fit, the TopoChico box is a placeholder)
- Renogy 1000w continuous / 2000w peak pure sine wave inverter with eco mode
- 6 circuit sub panel for expansion
- pos/neg busbars with 3/8" studs
- 2x 40A 12v breakers
- 1x 200A mega fuse

Not pictured or represented:
- 85w Cascadia4x4 Solar Panel fixed to hood
- Starlink mounted in a flat starmount powered by a POE injector using a 12v-48v step up transformer (none pictured)
- mofi 4500 mobile router

I'm hoping if my setup looks correct then I can dive into wire sizes.

Any and all feedback, comments, corrections, etc is appreciated!

Edit: I realized I forgot a "wire" (rope) connecting the sub panel to the positive bus bar but that is part of the plan as well.

Sponsored

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

hhmmm i like it so far. can you link the specific battery that fits under there?
Do you have any concerns about heat?

 

[Like_coffee]

So the battery choice has been one of the most difficult parts of all of this. Everything premade is just slightly too big. After seeing the Genesis diesel setup I thought going to the JCR storage basket would give me the room needed for a well reviewed 12v 100ah LiFePO4 from RoyPow that was self heating (I live in a northern climate), had low temp cutoffs and high temp cutoffs in the event of a short, but it was clear when I got the JCR storage assembled it wouldn't work.

I went with this: https://jag35.com/collections/lifepo4-batteries/products/slm24-lifepo4-12v-100a-4s2p-1200wh-battery

I'm going to use their premade PCB and recommended BMS to start, bringing the total to $368 after shipping and taxes, but I may eventually buy a BMS with all of the features of the RoyPow I was hoping for.

Alternatively, I could run two Weize 12v 50ah from Amazon in parallel, but the ability to change the BMS to my liking really swayed me to the Jag35 solution.

Also the Redarc DC-DC unit I went with has low-temp charge protection built in as well.

I have no idea if heat will be an issue until I'm done. I figured in the colder temps it would be welcomed and in higher temps there's always AC and windows. I can also oversize all of my wires in hopes to not generate too much at least in that way. I also plan to have the inverter off most of time. Van Life people do this all the time, but any tips and tricks are welcome!

 

[chorky]

Maybe add a set of fans just for some air circulation?

In had this in my RV to help push air around the fridge, and they moved a ton of air at a relatively low noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-V...fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

 

[Like_coffee]

Maybe add a set of fans just for some air circulation?

In had this in my RV to help push air around the fridge, and they moved a ton of air at a relatively low noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Ventilation-Cooling-Controller-TTC-SC20/dp/B07HHRHHH6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=8JXZOVQW6O6V&keywords=RV+fridge+fan&qid=1674524977&s=electronics&sprefix=rv+fridge+fan,electronics,177&sr=1-8&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

This was certainly something I am considering if I notice the air stay stagnant under there. Thanks for the link.

Also.. not sure how many know this (I didn't until I pulled out the old storage bin) but the floor vents for the rear seat actually push forward from under the seats. It would be cool if I could wire a relay with a temp sensor to trigger the blower motor for the heat/ac system and move power for the blower from the main battery to my auxillary system. It would take a level of electrical engineering and patience that I don't have.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Gonna dig this one out of the depths, did you make it anywhere with this project?

Sponsored