Using loctite on steering components

[chorky]

There's a reason Jeep has the values they do.
If the replacement parts are of the same size and class bolt (for example - the original bolt is 10.9 and the replacement is also the same size and 10.9 class) I'd use Jeep's torques.
In the case of nuts - Jeep is saying to not re-use because they have locking compound in the threads. Pitman, tie rod, drag link, etc. - factory nuts have locking compound and/or are lock nuts and not to be re-used, or should have adequate locking compound re-applied.
For the bolts, some can be re-used, some should not be re-used. I'd always use the Jeep specs on bolts.
Tapered joints must be pulled together with adequate force to hold, and bolted joints rely on clamping force. If the bolts are different (flange bolt compared to non-flange bolt) the forces will be different. I never use a straight nut or bolt where flange nuts or bolts have been used.
Jeep's had issues, and experience trying to keep things tight.
But that's me and how I've always done rebuilds over the years.

It would be cool to see some of the CAD drawings and stress loadings that Jeep has come up with to better see why they use what they use in particular fasteners or frame design.

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[Puch]

There's a reason Jeep has the values they do.
If the replacement parts are of the same size and class bolt (for example - the original bolt is 10.9 and the replacement is also the same size and 10.9 class) I'd use Jeep's torques.
In the case of nuts - Jeep is saying to not re-use because they have locking compound in the threads. Pitman, tie rod, drag link, etc. - factory nuts have locking compound and/or are lock nuts and not to be re-used, or should have adequate locking compound re-applied.
For the bolts, some can be re-used, some should not be re-used. I'd always use the Jeep specs on bolts.
Tapered joints must be pulled together with adequate force to hold, and bolted joints rely on clamping force. If the bolts are different (flange bolt compared to non-flange bolt) the forces will be different. I never use a straight nut or bolt where flange nuts or bolts have been used.
Jeep's had issues, and experience trying to keep things tight.
But that's me and how I've always done rebuilds over the years.

The steersmart draglink and tierod came with their own nuts. I paid for CORE to send me replacement fasteners with the track bar.

 

[Puch]

Maybe stupid rookie questions, but I recently installed new steersmart tie rod and draglink. Also, core track bar. It’s the second track bar that I installed. With the first one, I never had a problem with needing to re torque. It always stayed at the original torque spec without loctite. This is the first time I installed tie rod and draglink.
It doesn’t mention anything about using loctite on anything in the instructions. Only recommends check torque (70ft lbs) at 100miles and then every 3000.
Problem is the bolts seem to be loosening drastically after only 20-40 miles on everything. The new track bar (wheel end not frame end), as well as the drag link, and tie rod! are all loose, WTH!!!
I’ve retourqed a couple times already due to bad steering wheel shimmy. Not death wobble…yet. The steering is great for another 20-40miles and then goes to shit again. Am I losing my mind?
Common sense says use loctite, but why would the fasteners keep loosening so quickly? I can see having to re torque after a couple thousand, but 20-40 miles?
Anyone ever experience anything like that?
Would you guys use any loctite? Red or blue?

Thank you for all the advice. If it gets loose again I’m going to put some blue goo on it. If that doesn’t work, I’ll go with red. If that doesn’t work. I’m setting it on fire ?

 

[bleda2002]

Some steersmarts are supposed to be torqued to 125 ftlbs or ao, I helped my buddy install his and depending on which part and sleeve you got was what you torqued it to

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