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What am I doing wrong?

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StupidJeep

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Switch away from Royal Purple - not great at film strength. people believe expensive oil, fancy names, etc. are better and are often worse.
IMO, these valve trains need good oil. You need film strength for those followers.

Your air filter isn't helping you either, Those K&N filters are crap.

Put better oil with a better film strength in - the stock Pennzoil oil or Mobil 1 oil.
Ditch that K&N air filter - if you want proof I've got a handful of charts showing ISO scientific testing as far as how much dirt they let through and how restrictive they get if you don't clean them constantly. Good for racing, where you rebuild engines constantly anyway, not good for an engine if you want 100,000 miles out of it.

Seriously, why not use proven good oil? Price and color don't dictate quality.

Sorry, but this is a good reason to stick with the known things - and that's the factory parts or recommendations.
If you want to deviate from the recommended known good oil - at least go AMSOIL 0w20. It's also proven good.
I've been using it because I've had really good luck with the stuff in my 318 and 4.0, never had any kind of serious failure in those.
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KX L

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I don't rock crawl, a few easy trails a couple of times a year to go fishing or launch kayaks. Cruise just below 18,000 RPMs, shifting around 22,000 RPMs. I do all my own maintenance, it's only been in the shop for tires, so it's not like a tech is lieing about work done.

Umm, my math for Marines tells me that 2 x 1000 = 2,000 not 20,000 RPMs. ;)

Jeep Gladiator What am I doing wrong? IMG_0102


Personally, I think you're cruising and shifting at too low an RPM for this high revving truck.

Like you, I have the manual transmission. When cruising I prefer to stay in the low end of power band at about 2,500 RPMs for a better response between gas mileage and a need to accelerate because of the distracted idiots out there on the road.

I don't shift until at least 3,000 RPMs when I shift accelerating slowly.

Here in Missouri, the speed limit signs on the highways are 65 MPH around me but most on the road are doing a good 10 MPH over that. So getting on the highway I'm usually not shifting until 3,500 RPM or higher.

Remember that the shift tables in the owners manual are specifically designed only for the very best MPG due to the Corporate Average Fuel Economy [CAFE] requirements for the manufacturers. They have no basis at all in real world driving.

Jeep Gladiator What am I doing wrong? Screenshot 2023-07-24 at 12.34.05 PM


If you really are shifting at 2200 RPM and cruising at 1800 RPM you would have obvious lugging on any carb fueled engine with a RPM redline at 6,500 RPMs.

The fuel injection prevents the shuddering effect but the very simple test that you're still lugging the engine by being in a higher gear than you should is that you have pretty much zero acceleration without downshifting first when you press the accelerator. If you're doing this you are increasing the heat of the pistons and cylinder walls and it will ultimately cause engine issues.

That said I don't know that it would affect the cam and rocker arms.
 

PaulW

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For any late model motor it is important to use a motor oil that has very high wear protection. Not the oil you chose.
Here is a link to spend hours on the subject of wear protection. Pretty reliable source for actual testing that is continuously updated
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
 

Russ2023

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Switch away from Royal Purple - not great at film strength. people believe expensive oil, fancy names, etc. are better and are often worse.
IMO, these valve trains need good oil. You need film strength for those followers.

Your air filter isn't helping you either, Those K&N filters are crap.
‘This confuses me. Seeing a few of your replies I sense you probably have some good real world experience but your opinion of Royal Purple goes against the grain of what the BMW crowd swear by and that’s where I was introduced to it. I’ve run it now for at least 20 years in BMW & Porsches with no engine issues of any kind. Several of these cars were dyno’d between 350-450 hp and tracked regularly. I’d send some oil out for testing about once a year and the report would always show that the oil was still in great shape.

So is it more about just feeling like there’s really no reason to pay the difference because of other blends improving so much or is there some empirical evidence you’ve seen that suggests some shortcomings with RP? Or is just something as simple as it being overkill in a Jeep? TIA.
 

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Dick

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Just spitballing here, but I'd say your problem lies in the 18,000 to 22,000 RPM range. :)
 

cranbiz

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From personal experience.

Royal Purple should not be used in Jeep manual transmissions. It causes issues with the transmission staying in gear. A close friend had it in his NV3550 and it was popping out of gear. Switched to Pennziol syncromesh (the recommended gear oil) and the issues stopped.

It might be fine for the Pentastar but I'm not using it. I'll stick to the Pennzoil full synthetic that is Mopar certified.
 

PaulW

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For Jeeps and other US brands the best oil is probably from the vehicle manufacturer or Full Synthetic Quaker State, Mobile 1, Pennzoil, etc.
Your experiment with unusual brand gave you a bad result.
The comment about European brands would be the same. Use what the manufacturer recommends for the best result, not a brand of oil that you read about somewhere.
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