What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[JCappy]

Granted we only bought the house in December. So I’m working on it. I promise this isn’t the norm for me. It’ll be perfect before 2025 is over.

Do we need to plan a jeep cleanup party at your house?

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[agoldxj]

I absolutely will. . Once I get more things on the walls it’ll be under control. My goal is almost total floor space. So I can move things around depending on the project. And several massive things that don’t currently have wheels will be getting them, including tool chests and the big workbench left by the previous owner.

That will be nice, I never thought I’d fill a 5 bay garage so quickly, especially coming from a old 1.5 car setup.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Granted we only bought the house in December. So I’m working on it. I promise this isn’t the norm for me. It’ll be perfect before 2025 is over.

It's been a year for us since the move, and we're still not fully organized and unpacked, so you still have plenty of time in my timeline.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Do we need to plan a jeep cleanup party at your house?

Long drive for you, but I accept!

 

[WILDHOBO]

That will be nice, I never thought I’d fill a 5 bay garage so quickly, especially coming from a old 1.5 car setup.

Then we’re in the same boat. Came from a shallow one car that wouldn’t fit a car. I had all my tools in there via Tetris. But using something like a table saw required rolling it onto the driveway. Now it’s a 3 door, 5 car. Two stalls are 2.5 deep. And somehow it’s full. But it’s artificial. I had every inch of the walls covered in the old garage. It’s all on the floor in boxes right now. Shelves, hooks, shelves, and more damn shelves. Then it’ll be awesome.

 

[WILDHOBO]

It's been a year for us since the move, and we're still not fully organized and unpacked, so you still have plenty of time in my timeline.

I can’t believe it’s already 6 months for us. Seems like yesterday we moved, day before for you.

 

[agoldxj]

Then we’re in the same boat. Came from a shallow one car that wouldn’t fit a car. I had all my tools in there via Tetris. But using something like a table saw required rolling it onto the driveway. Now it’s a 3 door, 5 car. Two stalls are 2.5 deep. And somehow it’s full. But it’s artificial. I had every inch of the walls covered in the old garage. It’s all on the floor in boxes right now. Shelves, hooks, shelves, and more damn shelves. Then it’ll be awesome.

Yup same scenario for me as well, it’s going to be great when you get it all set up and organized.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m not the expert you are, but I’d say that’s truly necessary with things like lifters and rod bolts, and main bearings. But control arms? They, in my opinion, need enough clamping pressure to not have any play at all, and less pressure than what would damage the brackets. I use common sense, then see if there’s any movement at all, with a large rubber hammer if you want. Then go around the block and exercise the brakes to look for clunking. You can always tighten more. With lock nuts and that much torque, even if they’re 10 or 20lbs light on the test drive, there’s no safety risk.

The other side of this is blindly trusting a piece of paper with torque specs, ignoring common sense. A friend and I trusted that a few weeks ago lifting a literally brand new JTR. The bolts had 2k miles on them. We trusted the 150ft lb rating from teraflex for the front upper axle end bolts. No impact at any stage. All manual with a good quality calibrated wrench. Broke two bolts. Screw that. Replaced the bolts and did the initial torque with an impact and used common sense and a lengthy test drive including offroad bumps.

I don't trust the 3rd party parts suppliers for torque values.
I do trust what Jeep says. It is literally a science, one that those other suppliers just "well, a class 8.8 bolt can be torqued to xxx and we're using yy mm diameter bolts so that's what we'll put down".
Joke. They aren't considering a dozen other factors that must be taken into account - the bolt and nut type, surface areas, plating and other things.
So when I swap parts, unless I see, from experience, a reason to not do otherwise, I go back to the factory numbers. (if anything, I go a touch above, depending on the type of joint, the actual spec and so on - like the steering gear to frame, don't go light on that one)

I'd bet you are heavy on the torque - not light. I consider the torque values for some of the parts on these the "don't even think about less" numbers.
And the third party market? Yeah, like they really have the same engineering level auto makers have, they really have members of the SAE on staff.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I don't trust the 3rd party parts suppliers for torque values.
I do trust what Jeep says. It is literally a science, one that those other suppliers just "well, a class 8.8 bolt can be torqued to xxx and we're using yy mm diameter bolts so that's what we'll put down".
Joke. They aren't considering a dozen other factors that must be taken into account - the bolt and nut type, surface areas, plating and other things.
So when I swap parts, unless I see, from experience, a reason to not do otherwise, I go back to the factory numbers. (if anything, I go a touch above, depending on the type of joint, the actual spec and so on - like the steering gear to frame, don't go light on that one)

I'd bet you are heavy on the torque - not light. I consider the torque values for some of the parts on these the "don't even think about less" numbers.
And the third party market? Yeah, like they really have the same engineering level auto makers have, they really have members of the SAE on staff.

THANK YOU. Nut type. Seriously. 150 with a 10mm 10.9 bolt and an oval (squashed) lock nut? Nope. Broken. It would have held with a nylock or no lock but and thread locker. But those variables? Two brand new bolts broken with proven hand tools.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

THANK YOU. Nut type. Seriously. 150 with a 10mm 10.9 bolt and an oval (squashed) lock nut? Nope. Broken. It would have held with a nylock or no lock but and thread locker. But those variables? Two brand new bolts broken with proven hand tools.

Hey, I'm the guy who broke a BODY BOLT with an Indestro 15" 1/2" drive breaker bar and Craftsman socket. LOL
I bet we'd have a ton of fun tearing into stuff, maybe even putting it back together!

Again, I just have a feeling that you aren't lacking on the torque. I've had my own JT give weird "clunks" because I was just a teeny bit under torque on the rear bits after swapping in spacers and air bags. I had to give it just a little bit more, actually hit the number, for that clunk to go away.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hey, I'm the guy who broke a BODY BOLT with an Indestro 15" 1/2" drive breaker bar and Craftsman socket. LOL
I bet we'd have a ton of fun tearing into stuff, maybe even putting it back together!

Again, I just have a feeling that you aren't lacking on the torque. I've had my own JT give weird "clunks" because I was just a teeny bit under torque on the rear bits after swapping in spacers and air bags. I had to give it just a little bit more, actually hit the number, for that clunk to go away.

Same. Control arm clunk after a few hundred miles. Impact for 2 seconds and done. But I had to learn that holding the trigger down creating repetitive impacts makes it stronger. I like short bursts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But I had to learn that holding the trigger down creating repetitive impacts makes it stronger.

Yeah, it does.

I've found that using my Milwaukee impact "just right" gets it awfully close to some of the torque specs.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yeah, it does.

I've found that using my Milwaukee impact "just right" gets it awfully close to some of the torque specs.

Yep. Depending on what it is, I choose the right sized wrench. Works great after some practice.

 

[Jerhemi]

Kiwi LED tails and some amazon led fogs that can toggle from yellow to white.

 

[ScottBeach]

poppa got some new shoes today as we were slippin & slidin at stoney lonesome a few weeks ago. shout out to walmartdotcom as 4- 40x13.50x20 maxxis razr AT hides delivered to to my home for $2009.50. best price i could find. i would recommend the tire shop, my purchase elsewhere was ok with them, but they decided to raise the mount & balance price $20 even though they wrote me a quote 10 days ago. boo!
the other update took a week as the two niilight bumper lights drew more juice than i anticipated. i needed to wait for a second oracle wiring harness for the right side. not a big deal as the right taillight was sitting on the bench after being removed by a tree root while i was wheelin in a creek at stoney. each light puts out 1600 lumens and operates only when in reverse. just what i wanted.

What is the weight of that tire/receiver?

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