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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

agoldxj

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190 is the number from the lift kits.
Factory spec is actually tighter than that.
Personally, I never use the lift kit specs.
I tighten to the factory spec. When taking my first two apart to swap parts, they were tighter than that 190, and after seeing the factory specs, that's what I use.

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I thought they felt tighter than 190 getting them loose. I set my wrench to 190 but when I was done it was closer to 200. It was a chore, the rest of the lift was quick. I even swapped in some new take off shocks with under 1,000 miles on them. Not sure if I’m going to sell or have my other set rebuilt at some point, they’re still fine with 47k on them. I got a good deal and figured I would do everything at once.
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RudeJeepin

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190 is the number from the lift kits.
Factory spec is actually tighter than that.
Personally, I never use the lift kit specs.
I tighten to the factory spec. When taking my first two apart to swap parts, they were tighter than that 190, and after seeing the factory specs, that's what I use.

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I don't mind the torque plus degrees. I just wish it was in increments of 45 degrees. I don't own a degree wheel. Not to mention it can be pretty hard to use one in every situation.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I don't mind the torque plus degrees. I just wish it was in increments of 45 degrees. I don't own a degree wheel. Not to mention it can be pretty hard to use one in every situation.
I've used a protractor and marker before. Those magnetic angle thingies work in some cases. I have one I use on drive lines, my table saw blade and so on.
They do the degrees because that gives them an exact amount of stretch or tension. Sort of like SBC lifter preload. .... 32 tpi means 1/32" for every turn of the nut.
 

KevinM60

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Yep 190 ftlbs was a pain.I was never so happy just to hear one click. A 150 pound guy trying to get 190 ftlbs out of a torque wrench isnt fun.
The trick I learned here is to position the torque wrench with a jack under it to do the cranking.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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The trick I learned here is to position the torque wrench with a jack under it to do the cranking.
Been there.........

I've posted pics before but for the rear lca bolts, extensions and a short jack stand allow me to stand and torque those.
 

WILDHOBO

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Got the extended arms in tonight, man 190 ft lbs is fun. Best pics for now, just got the driveway sealed.

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Might be the coolest garage ever.
 

WILDHOBO

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The trick I learned here is to position the torque wrench with a jack under it to do the cranking.
I’m done with that. I’ve done it enough times that 8 arms is just crazy. I won’t touch sensitive things with an impact, but control arms and track bars, I use common sense to get them close with the light or mid torque, paying attention to not squeezing the brackets. Just short pulses to not let the wrench get too powerful. Then I double check them all with the torque wrench, and get the last turns that way. Saves my arms and shoulders laying on the ground.
 
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WILDHOBO

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I've used a protractor and marker before. Those magnetic angle thingies work in some cases. I have one I use on drive lines, my table saw blade and so on.
They do the degrees because that gives them an exact amount of stretch or tension. Sort of like SBC lifter preload. .... 32 tpi means 1/32" for every turn of the nut.
I’m not the expert you are, but I’d say that’s truly necessary with things like lifters and rod bolts, and main bearings. But control arms? They, in my opinion, need enough clamping pressure to not have any play at all, and less pressure than what would damage the brackets. I use common sense, then see if there’s any movement at all, with a large rubber hammer if you want. Then go around the block and exercise the brakes to look for clunking. You can always tighten more. With lock nuts and that much torque, even if they’re 10 or 20lbs light on the test drive, there’s no safety risk.

The other side of this is blindly trusting a piece of paper with torque specs, ignoring common sense. A friend and I trusted that a few weeks ago lifting a literally brand new JTR. The bolts had 2k miles on them. We trusted the 150ft lb rating from teraflex for the front upper axle end bolts. No impact at any stage. All manual with a good quality calibrated wrench. Broke two bolts. Screw that. Replaced the bolts and did the initial torque with an impact and used common sense and a lengthy test drive including offroad bumps.
 

agoldxj

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Might be the coolest garage ever.
Haha thanks, it’s come along way but far from perfect. Need to take the time to clean and organize. It’s mowing season now so there goes that haha. Plus my 19 month old keeps me plenty busy.
 

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WILDHOBO

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Haha thanks, it’s come along way but far from perfect. Need to take the time to clean and organize. It’s mowing season now so there goes that haha. Plus my 19 month old keeps me plenty busy.
I just dug for a picture of my organization problem. I think you’re good. :)

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agoldxj

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WILDHOBO

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Haha yup, makes me feel a little better!😮
Granted we only bought the house in December. So I’m working on it. I promise this isn’t the norm for me. It’ll be perfect before 2025 is over.
 

agoldxj

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Granted we only bought the house in December. So I’m working on it. I promise this isn’t the norm for me. It’ll be perfect before 2025 is over.
That’s nothing then, post pics when you get it all set up!
 

WILDHOBO

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That’s nothing then, post pics when you get it all set up!
I absolutely will. šŸ’Æ. Once I get more things on the walls it’ll be under control. My goal is almost total floor space. So I can move things around depending on the project. And several massive things that don’t currently have wheels will be getting them, including tool chests and the big workbench left by the previous owner.
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