Wrong Size Shocks, or Just Geometry Corrections?

[HenrytheDestroyer]

Hello All

Set up:

• 2022 Sport S
• Clayton Ride Right 2.5", HD rear springs
• Bilstein 5100, 33-305288

Measurements:

• Currently, My Bilstein rear shocks, at stopped/parked, measure to be approximately 24.5" in length. (tapemeasure attempt)
• According to tech specs, 5100s extend to a maximum of 28.41" (collapse to 17.91").
• I have about 6.5" gap between my rear stock bump stop and axle platform. (tapemeasure attempt; (~5" in the front)
• Currently, my rear bump stop spacing reduces to about 4.5" when I tow (despite the HD springs).

Plan:

• Goal: Better ride while towing/daily driving/ensure long-lasting Jeep even with upgrades.
• My current plan is to get a RockJock Carrier Bearing drop to help correct the driveshaft angle.
• I am also going to be purchasing a 2" Clayton bump stop extensions
• And some Timbren SES bump stops for the rear, only.

Concerns/Questions:

I want to make sure that after I add these modifications, the current 5100s remain the correct option. I understand the Timbrens are longer/bigger than stock bump stops, but given too large spacing as it currently exists in the rear anyway, I believe the bump stop extensions will still be needed. Because when I tow i lose about 2" of drop, my estimation is that the timbrens will come in contact only while towing, but be close enough for bumps while not towing (which I don't think my stock bump stops even come close now). I also do not want to over-extend the shocks as is or after the modifications, so is the remaining 3.9" of extension sufficient in my 5100s?

Also, I have some other (more minor) modifications for the future in thought, including a new bumper/winch (affects front weight), the baxter adapter, and electrical upgrades (interior 120v hookup - on board air - radio setup). I don't believe many of these will affect the suspension plans otherwise, but I wanted to see if there was anything glaring that I have omitted, or that needs to be adjusted with my plans.

Thanks all!

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[kevman65]

In your scenario, you aren't concerned about full extension, it's full compression you need to worry about.

So, you have 6.5" from ride height to full compression of your shocks. You have 6.5" gap between jounce and bump stop. In a perfect world, that's right on. But we don't live in a perfect world.

The rule of thumb is, 1" of bump stop added for 1" of height added. So you need a minimum of 2" bump stop, front and rear. You could go 3" but that would limit your up travel (Stuff) more than you need.

The only time you need to worry (and it's not much to worry about) about full extension is when your wheels droop, or you articulate the axles.

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

In your scenario, you aren't concerned about full extension, it's full compression you need to worry about.

So, you have 6.5" from ride height to full compression of your shocks. You have 6.5" gap between jounce and bump stop. In a perfect world, that's right on. But we don't live in a perfect world.

The rule of thumb is, 1" of bump stop added for 1" of height added. So you need a minimum of 2" bump stop, front and rear. You could go 3" but that would limit your up travel (Stuff) more than you need.

The only time you need to worry (and it's not much to worry about) about full extension is when your wheels droop, or you articulate the axles.

For that rule of thumb, does that mean 2" of bump stop space (between the bottom of the stop and the axle platform) or are you talking about the size of the bump stop itself?

If I'm reading your knowledge correct, my plans should work, TBD on real life install and measurements of the Timbrens.

 

[kevman65]

On the rear, the jounce up top meets the large flat spot on axle at the bottom.
When the lift is added, a bump stop should be added at the bottom.

On the front it's a little different and there's a lot of different options out there. But you add bump stop inside the spring, on the bottom.

You don't need to change out the jounces ( rubber butt plugs up top all around) just add bump stop on the bottom. If the Timbrens are a replacement jounce (top side) you don't need to spend that money.

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

On the rear, the jounce up top meets the large flat spot on axle at the bottom.
When the lift is added, a bump stop should be added at the bottom.

On the front it's a little different and there's a lot of different options out there. But you add bump stop inside the spring, on the bottom.

You don't need to change out the jounces ( rubber butt plugs up top all around) just add bump stop on the bottom. If the Timbrens are a replacement jounce (top side) you don't need to spend that money.

Makes more sense. I was using the term "bump stop" as the yellow foam piece you call the jounce.

I am intending to use the timbrens to replace the yellow jounces in the rear, but that intention is hoping that will primarily upgrade the towing/payload driving as opposed to just spending money in "upgrading" the jounce itself.

 

[kevman65]

You said you were getting the Clayton bump stops, so that's 2" off your gap.
If you get the Timbrens also that's 2" more off your gap.
That will put you at 2.5" of gap and not much up travel when you're not loaded down.

I believe the Clayton bump stops are cheaper, try those first (talking rear axle) if you feel you still need more, then go with the Timbrens. The only thing you'd have to remove would be maybe the tire to make it easier to install. If you like a challenge and cussing, leave the tire on.

 

[MudderNuker]

Not sure if you have considered airbags in the rear springs. They are a cheap option that works really well for towing.

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

Not sure if you have considered airbags in the rear springs. They are a cheap option that works really well for towing.

Yes, I looked into the airbag option. Decided against for now since I was going to correct my bump stop situation. Airbags in the future, maybe. But no onboard air either (yet).

 

[MudderNuker]

Yes, I looked into the airbag option. Decided against for now since I was going to correct my bump stop situation. Airbags in the future, maybe. But no onboard air either (yet).

No onboard air required. The Airlift 1000 has just one Schrader valve installed anywhere you want and you inflate to 5 psi when needed. That's how I did it.

https://a.co/d/48GWO3G It says it doesn't fit the Gladiator but Amazon is wrong.

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