No Power from Interior AUX and Ignition Wires

[MAI77]

Is there a diagram or something that shows their wiring? You got me curious now...

I appreciate it. Can't upload the whole install pdf because the file is too large but here is a link, it's pages 4-6 more or less.

https://tinyurl.com/26p4hj4r

I'll attach some screenshots but they'll probably be horrible.

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[MAI77]

Just to add, I feel like it's a ground issue. I've checked all fuses too. And the aux switch lights up and I've already checked to make sure it's seated correctly.

 

[cafecito]

The screenshots were fine - thanks!

So, give me a bit more info. I'm assuming you're just connecting the I and J to the AUX wire and the ground. If so, then what do you do with F and G? The way this diagram is laid out, without any indication of which way current is supposedly going, it's tough to tell exactly how their factory switch actually allows or blocks current.

All the Mopar AUX buttons are going to do is handle the power coming into letter I, but unless you leave the factory button connected and in the "ON" position, I'm not sure how else you could get the switch to function like theirs does.

I am assuming that the wires going to/coming from G are a continuous circuit. My guess is that you'd have to find a way to have the Mopar AUX wire sit in between the two wires from F, like a Y toggle. Tough to say though... can you show a pic of the back of G and the F connectors?

This is what I mean, if it helps:

 

[cafecito]

Just to add, I feel like it's a ground issue. I've checked all fuses too. And the aux switch lights up and I've already checked to make sure it's seated correctly.

I've heard of factory paint on ground studs interfering with grounding before too - is the metal 100% exposed and clean?

 

[cafecito]

I got a closer look, and it appears that the F connectors are just spades? If so, it may be easy to just do a 3-way splice to get the Mopar AUX to act as an interrupter somehow.

 

[MAI77]

Darn. I've read posts of people wiring them up how I intended but didn't thought it would be a lot more plug and play. This might be getting above my pay grade. Regarding the ground, I've even tried running directly to battery ground terminal.

"I" and H are actually directly at battery and ground post on passenger fender wall, not the Aux wiring bundle.

F in reality is 3 wires now, this manual isn't updated. Black, red and yellow for the rocker switch light which I'm not even using when testing. So with "I" and H under the hood, I have red F running to Aux 2 and have tried grounding black wire F to numerous places.

I'll get the photo over when I return. Thanks again so far

 

[MAI77]

I got a closer look, and it appears that the F connectors are just spades? If so, it may be easy to just do a 3-way splice to get the Mopar AUX to act as an interrupter somehow.

This, right? I was thinking about needing to act as an interrupter as well.

 

[MAI77]

Can you show a pic of the back of G and the F connectors?

here is photo of the switch and a screenshot from an install video showing the proper wiring called for.

 

[cafecito]

F in reality is 3 wires now, this manual isn't updated. Black, red and yellow for the rocker switch light which I'm not even using when testing. So with "I" and H under the hood, I have red F running to Aux 2 and have tried grounding black wire F to numerous places.

Hmm, so this is the part I'm curious about. With H and I being directly at the battery, the only way their installed rocker switch could do anything is if the power flowed through it first, then to the rails. In other words, it must close the circuit, which means the power has to come TO that switch, but then also flow AWAY from it to the rails.

If red is the hot wire, and black is the ground.... maybe red and yellow should both be on AUX2? I'm honestly just spitballing at this point.

 

[MAI77]

Thanks, I'll try that. Haven't done it previously since yellow is just for the switch light.

 

[cafecito]

Thanks, I'll try that. Haven't done it previously since yellow is just for the switch light.

Oh, so that just illuminates the LED inside the switch itself? Hmm... I mean there has to be some kind of continuity that the switch is interrupting.

We gotta figure this out - it's going to drive me nuts if I don't know... lol

 

[MAI77]

That's how I feel, especially knowing that others have done it. I can easily use the RSE switch but now I'm on a mission to find out.

 

[abe57]

Ok reading this I think I have it figured out..You need to place the power wire { I ] to the Aux switch wire that has the proper size fuse , so you could eather remove the fuse holder on wire [ I ] B4 making your connection to the Aux wire or just have two fuses ,I recommend removing. The Aux switch IS your power ! Then just make the loop at [ F ] that the switch Interrupts and your done. Or have the switch connected and always on and just hide it away somewhere . Then just cover [ Heat shrink ] the Yellow wire you say is the light wire to the switch.

 

[MAI77]

Thanks for the input. I'm all for trying it out but just have some questions. So replace the fuse for aux 2 in the PDC with a 20 amp?

Second, if you don't mind can you just give me a quick how-to on wiring the loop at F correctly, and I'll get it going.

 

[abe57]

I would stay at the 15amp on the aux stuff. You might just want to keep the 20 in line . as for the switch wiring I am not sure if one is power and the other a ground with out seeing a wiring schematic. Might just try placing the switch there and have it in the on position and see how things go. Are the higher amp switches already taken 1&3 I do believe ?

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