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Lunentucker

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Seems a hidden switch that tells the computer that the door is opened and makes it engage auto-park would work too. A simple switch in that circuit from the door wiring harness to one of the AUX switches converted to a simple on/off function.

All of the "solutions" need to keep future owners in mind and be easily reversed if need be.
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ShadowsPapa

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Seems a hidden switch that tells the computer that the door is opened and makes it engage auto-park would work too. A simple switch in that circuit from the door wiring harness to one of the AUX switches converted to a simple on/off function.

All of the "solutions" need to keep future owners in mind and be easily reversed if need be.
Gee, just take the doors off and put them back on a time or two. That'll fix it.

If they have a tazer, they can connect it and disable auto park, or even just buckle the seat belt.

Not sure why go to the bother to gut one of the aux switches and turn it into an independent switch, making it useless for real stuff would be easier than installing any type of switch, a microswitch, even somewhere unseen. You'd have to remove the aux switch bank, gut one of the switches since they are momentary switches, the latching controlled by the truck, not mechanically controlled in the switch. You'd all but destroy it converting it from momentary to latching independent of the others (not sure of the errors it could generate if one wasn't there)
The aux switches are momentary by nature. The truck is where the REAL switching is, not in that bank of switches in the center stack.
So rather than destroy an aux switch to replace the guts to make it a latching switch, why not install a microswitch no one could find? A lot easier than gutting an aux switch and putting other switch guts in it and still having to wire it by itself anyway.

I had wondered about using a USB port - convert one to be able to accept a gutted usb stick that simply completed a circuit to allow the truck to start or move.
Wouldn't need to be a key at all, use two of the contacts of a USB stick to complete a connection when inserted into a special USB slot. You could use the console USB port and if you needed the truck worked on, just leave the stick in that console port and it would start and operate normally.
 

Trippin01

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dangit, that completely sucks. I'm paranoid of getting ducked so pretty much leave mine in the garage. I'm not to worried about it once I get it on the trails, but staying in a hotel does make me a little nervous when in Ouray, Telluride or MOAB. I think a kill switch is a definite must tho. Is there anything in particular thats a "Forum Favorite"?
 

Lunentucker

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Gee, just take the doors off and put them back on a time or two. That'll fix it.

If they have a tazer, they can connect it and disable auto park, or even just buckle the seat belt.

Not sure why go to the bother to gut one of the aux switches and turn it into an independent switch, making it useless for real stuff would be easier than installing any type of switch, a microswitch, even somewhere unseen. You'd have to remove the aux switch bank, gut one of the switches since they are momentary switches, the latching controlled by the truck, not mechanically controlled in the switch. You'd all but destroy it converting it from momentary to latching independent of the others (not sure of the errors it could generate if one wasn't there)
The aux switches are momentary by nature. The truck is where the REAL switching is, not in that bank of switches in the center stack.
So rather than destroy an aux switch to replace the guts to make it a latching switch, why not install a microswitch no one could find? A lot easier than gutting an aux switch and putting other switch guts in it and still having to wire it by itself anyway.

I had wondered about using a USB port - convert one to be able to accept a gutted usb stick that simply completed a circuit to allow the truck to start or move.
Wouldn't need to be a key at all, use two of the contacts of a USB stick to complete a connection when inserted into a special USB slot. You could use the console USB port and if you needed the truck worked on, just leave the stick in that console port and it would start and operate normally.
Not sure why you'd want to ruin a perfectly good USB port. ?
 

rharr

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Gee, just take the doors off and put them back on a time or two. That'll fix it.

If they have a tazer, they can connect it and disable auto park, or even just buckle the seat belt.

Not sure why go to the bother to gut one of the aux switches and turn it into an independent switch, making it useless for real stuff would be easier than installing any type of switch, a microswitch, even somewhere unseen. You'd have to remove the aux switch bank, gut one of the switches since they are momentary switches, the latching controlled by the truck, not mechanically controlled in the switch. You'd all but destroy it converting it from momentary to latching independent of the others (not sure of the errors it could generate if one wasn't there)
The aux switches are momentary by nature. The truck is where the REAL switching is, not in that bank of switches in the center stack.
So rather than destroy an aux switch to replace the guts to make it a latching switch, why not install a microswitch no one could find? A lot easier than gutting an aux switch and putting other switch guts in it and still having to wire it by itself anyway.

I had wondered about using a USB port - convert one to be able to accept a gutted usb stick that simply completed a circuit to allow the truck to start or move.
Wouldn't need to be a key at all, use two of the contacts of a USB stick to complete a connection when inserted into a special USB slot. You could use the console USB port and if you needed the truck worked on, just leave the stick in that console port and it would start and operate normally.
Tying a switch to the door open sensor won't work well. With the switch activated and the JT thinking the door is open, the curtesy light will be on all the time.

Need to find another signal switch that deactivates the JT when triggered and patch into that.

Maybe tying into the park sensor and breaking that connection will cause the jeep to not start, but at the same time it may freak out and not fully shut down until it senses park.

I like the usb idea simple and obscure. especially if you customize the usb contact paths so only a modified usb stick works that has the same paths. Still leaves open the question of what to patch this into to shut things down. Break pedal sensor maybe? That seem most benign.
 

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Free2roam

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Fine, until you get this message -
aux switches temporarily unavailable
in your cluster.
Anything is doable - but those switches don't always work with certain battery charge conditions or other things going on.
So you get in, push the switch and find it won't work so you can't start your truck where otherwise you'd be able to.

You can use them for anything - but I'd not use them for something that might disable your ability to start the truck.
You are better off with a hidden switch that doesn't rely on the truck's systems being perfect.
Hood locks. Then when the remote is pressed to lock doors somehow integrate that into a electrical disconnect switch on the + side of the battery?
 

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Hood locks. Then when the remote is pressed to lock doors somehow integrate that into a electrical disconnect switch on the + side of the battery?
Problem - when they clone your fob or intercept the signal, then when they unlock the doors with your cloned signal, it will reconnect the battery because it got a good signal. .......... won't stop cloning or intercepting or tow-away thefts.

There's still the aux battery to contend with. If you disconnect both, what's going to reconnect them at unlock. Disconnecting both would also reset certain things.
 

Jerhemi

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Or run a heavy log chain through the wheels. A lockable steel bar that goes through both front wheels and clamps around the wheel.
I have literally thought of doing that. I have a city street lamp on my front lawn....thought about chaining the wheels up to it haha
 

exfil offroad

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I had seen that on their site, but hadn't done the firmware update on my Tazer. The shitty thing is the thieves probably look for such things immediately. Pull it out and re-connect the plugs and they're off. Of course, it takes serious patience to get those plugs back in. I had the extension cable in there so it would've taken less patience... in any case, it's gone.
Wonder if it would have helped ??‍♂
 

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Orange01z28

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Thats crap! Looks like that Tazer update will be getting done ASAP, new feature allows you to input a button code or the vehicle will not start.
I think that's already available

That being said, I've left my keys in my rig with no top and doors on it multiple times, if it gets stolen it gets stolen
 

Vtur

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Park it in 4H - but a clever thief can get in and pull the strap anyway.
Or run a heavy log chain through the wheels. A lockable steel bar that goes through both front wheels and clamps around the wheel.
What world are we living? Might as well install a device to fire a few warning rounds lol
 

Vtur

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Most devices on these trucks are on can-bus. Any condition that prevent the truck from starting can be kills, just got to find one that doesn't throw a cel. There's a way that requires utilizing both hands and legs to start it ?
 

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Wouldn't take much at all to find a system to disable and stop it from starting or moving. And really, so what if it threw a code? They'd have to spend time figuring it out, and you'd be alerted that someone tried. Clear the code and move on.
All that they'd know is that someone messed with it and there was an error unless they connected to diagnose and then they'd have to find how to find your "fix".
Are they going to stick around for 30 minutes to try to figure out the issue - and then try to track down your "hack" that broke it?
 

Vtur

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Wouldn't take much at all to find a system to disable and stop it from starting or moving. And really, so what if it threw a code? They'd have to spend time figuring it out, and you'd be alerted that someone tried. Clear the code and move on.
All that they'd know is that someone messed with it and there was an error unless they connected to diagnose and then they'd have to find how to find your "fix".
Are they going to stick around for 30 minutes to try to figure out the issue - and then try to track down your "hack" that broke it?
Caused I'm lazy to clear the codes ahaha
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